Category: Reifen & Felgen Forum

Hello all, I bought new tires for the second time at Ebay now, because the price is just better there (geez is horny) and there were no problems the last time. Now I bought Dunlops again and am not sure if these are not fakes or anything. First of all this should be from 03.2019 but on the career I see six places where the career comes together as a part. The best way to look at the pictures is to understand what I mean. Don’t know that so and I can’t quite imagine that the tires are made in this way. Are there experts here who can judge this better? Don’t want to have a tyre pitcher on the AB or anywhere else because I wanted to save… The reviews from the Ebay seller were also over 99.5% and from DE. Does a lot of tires trade What do you think?

Hello, I drive a Tiguan II and would like to buy larger rims. I have chosen the MAM A1 and combination with 245/45R19. According to ABE I have to attach covers on the exhaust flights and after edition A01 will be submitted to the TÜV. Now I have converted my vehicle to the R-Line conformation and have the corresponding fender cover. The R-Line, for example, does not have to be a TÜV acceptance. How does this work in my case? I drive to the TÜV, meet the requirements of n the conditions by the conversion and get a TÜV confirmation? Or has this already been done by the conversion? With the ABE to the conditions and many thanks for helpful hints.

Hello together, have a question about the profile depth that a summer tyre should have. I currently have about 3mm profile depth on my tyres. I’m still driving about 5,000 KM this summer. What would you do? Continue driving, or buy new tyres??? Thank you for Eu ́re answers! Best regards bigload

Hello guys, I’m already looking for a wolf here on the internet … Can someone tell me which manufacturer is behind this symbol:http://up.picr.de/18760816vj.jpg I urgently need an expert report / data sheet / load bearing specification or similar to these rims for the TÜV (§21…) (Are for a caravan, 4Jx12, LK98 ET30, so quasi wheelbarrow size 🙂

Hello. I’ve already been busy with SuFu, I’ve read about pros and cons and I haven’t seen them. Many things would even speak in my region for all-year-round tyres, because winters are no longer as severe as Anno Tuck. Okay, now you read the views of a layman, who has caught it at some point, be gracious. Even GJR have to be replaced on the axles and then balanced, because the fall of the opposite axles differs, the tires on the axles. If this is true, not only would there be additional costs due to balancing, no, I would also have to have them changed, even if only once a year, instead of seasonal winter AND summer tires twice. But that is interesting, and maybe this is also different from car to car, every time I have my tyres changed on the axle, they have never been groomed before. s for unnecessary or they place the decision exclusively in customer hands, no idea. By the way, I am a short stretcher and come just once on average to 7,500 km per year. When should you change GJR at this mileage axle side and is the balancing basically appropriate, or does it depend exclusively on whether you feel vibrations in the steering wheel or not? Greeting

Here in the forum there are both good experiences and horror scenarios with the 595 Evo. I myself have been driving the 595 Evo since 07/2016 and ~12,000km on my summer car and can’t complain at all, at least on a dry road. Now there is a tyre change for my everyday car – in the dimensions 215/40R18. Federal has produced a new tire, the Evoluzion ST-1, which even has a release for 8.5J rims. Tires already experience, though no long-term experience? Has Federal improved? What alternatives are there with 8.5J clearance? Price per tire should be less than 100€. Greetings, Thomas

Good day, I have so far moved my E90 LCI in winter with 17-tire. Was very comfortable and pleasant. After that I drove a short time as a summer tire 2 months ago 19-tire, was clearly harder. Then I wanted the golden center, 19-tire sold, 18-tire bought, BUT for the first time rims with RFT tires. Already when I bought these very hard felt to me, also very hard. When I mounted them, I could hardly believe it was all so hard, incredible. The car is rock hard, so that I on believe dampers or similar are defective, it is completely uncomfortable, and it runs track grooves extremely after, sometimes it just steers on its own in one direction, if I don’t hold the steering wheel (I didn’t have before). (driving profile: 80% city, on the AB you don’t notice it so extreme, but in the city with all the channel covers etc. already extreme) Now my questions: has someone already had similar experiences, that it differs so much? Opinion question: The tires are bridge stone Potenza RFT, DOT 16 or 17, profile around about 5mm still, would you still drive them and as soon as they have left only then buy new non RFT? or would you already do it now and the tires that are actually still usable replaced by non RFT? Your opinion and experience on this would be very interesting to me. Thank you very much.

Hello, today I wanted to install a set of track plates from Eibach (16 mm per side, 32 mm per axle), the variant for screwing with separate wheel nuts. Rims are standard. However, the mounting now fails due to the supplied Eibach wheel nuts M12x1.5×18.5 in SW17 KG60°, because these look too far out or are too wide with SW 17 or the casting pockets of the OEM rims are too narrow. I think the too narrow casting bags are decisive. On the side of the nut to the edge of the bag, so that the rim can not fit plan. How can I get this solved now? The TÜV report says for mounting: M12x1.5 with minimum 6.5 revolutions are to be used. No word about the length/height of the wheel nuts. Could I simply use M12x1.5×16.5 in SW17? Would now be 2 mm flatter, but there would be only H&R. Also here there would be flatter up to M12x1.5×15. Or is there no longer the strength due to missing thread length? https://www.rad screwen-shop.de/…/M12x15 20 mm Track widening will not fit without bodywork and I don’t want to file on the supplied wheel nuts or rim.

Good day in the forum! I see on many vehicles direction-bound tires and especially on motorcycles and mopeds, of course also on cars and often they are mounted so that although the direction-of-run arrow on the tire in the direction of rotation of the wheel during forward travel is correct, the profile would be wrongly mounted from the mechanical logic (especially on motorcycle front wheels). If you take the example picture below, I stand in front of the vehicle and the vehicle rolls towards me, the direction of running st The profile works so optimally for the drivage – during the braking process it is exactly the opposite, because the profile should actually stand the other way around in order to derive the water e.g. on wet road. But with a correctly mounted wheel the profile pulls the water in the middle of the tire during an extreme braking process and promotes the aquaplaning risk. Even worse, for example, it is on a non-driven rear axle, which rolls only during normal driving operation and during the It pulls the water into the profile instead of rejecting the water – so from the mechanics such tires should be mounted on the “non-powered wheels” in reverse?? I hope that the pictures will be uploaded.

Hi there, I have a short question. I have a 340i M-pack 19, but I’m not a racing driver 😉 My summer tires Bridgestone S001 Runflat have since this year ( tires are from the beginning of 2017) hardly grip (profil still close to 6mm). If I latch on at about 80 km/h times the vehicle goes into the control and points to the wheels turn off at the rear. When wet it is even worse. Last year I did not have these problems. The air pressure is ok. I drive 2.3 front e and 2.4 at the rear. Please no discussion about the air pressure. I am in the tire development and know a little about BMW tires, at least as far as the air pressure is concerned. I am also not one of the drivers who beat themselves 3 bar because of the better roll resistance, or the car drives with less pressure. I was there as a test driver a 3er with runflat without air in the tire the handling course, since none of us would have followed, no matter from 2 , 2.5 or 3 bar 🙂 That only marginally. Does anyone know this problem with the grip loss?