Category: Reifen & Felgen Forum

Hello tyre community, for 2 weeks we are the owner of a Honda Civic from 2008 with 83 hp. The car is driven almost only by my wife. The km performance will be almost 6,000 km and that to 80-85% in the city. My wife no longer wants the change summer tires – winter tires and I am not a friend of all year tires. I am interested in your experiences and conclusion with all year tires. Please only own experiences and in similar weather conditions, as in the Rhineland, if possible The volume and consumption are not important. Important is the behaviour and the braking distance in wet and dry conditions and whether one should go to work with snow or prefer to take the train. Would the bill at all open or are the all-year tires after 2-3 years no longer usable that the summer – winter combination would be cheaper? The tire size is 205 55 R16 Thank you in advance.

Hello! I ordered and delivered 2 Michelin Energy Saver Plus summer tires online. First of all, I was disturbed that both tyres have a different DOT number (1 week apart), but it doesn’t seem to be that bad? Both tyres have a bump in each case. I think that’s normal, isn’t it? In the case of the one tyre inside, there are also bubbles in several places where there seems to be air enclosed. If you press there, the material is in the places Is this normal? Is that a security risk? I sent photos to the dealer where I bought them. He said it was fine. When I called Michelin, however, the lady at the hotline said that I should rather return them. I also wrote an e-mail to Michelin. Answer was, I should send the tires for free check. But then I must wait forever… Because I didn’t want to wait that long, I ordered another 2 new types of the same type. On the 2nd delivery it was like this: both tyres with the same DOT. I was already pleased. But then the look in the inner jacket: On tyres 1: An approx. 3-4 mm large solid knob inside in the tire. In addition, 2 smaller ones near the Knubbel. Tyre 2: The bridges in the inner jacket, are interrupted in the middle on 2-3 cm around. E-mail to the dealer. The other one would be ok. Then came a replacement tyre. But he was 4 months older than the two. What should I do now? The tires from the very first delivery keep with the bubbles? Or send everything away and buy something completely different? I thought for example about the new Falken Sincere 832 EC…

Hello! I am currently looking for good used or new 205/50 R17. I bought the car recently used. On the current rims are 205/50 R17 93 W. I have to replace two of them. To my questions… My 325ti is registered with 235 km/h. The current tire is approved by the “W” up to 270 km/h. May I also raise “V” (240 km/h)? Next, I would like to know if I should also raise RunFlat tyres. Or do you need to use the vehicle license a n special indication? By the way, the rims are 7×17 R47 BMW Style 73.

Hello guys, I would like to buy my A4 new rims soon. I would like the WSP italy Giasone W567 in 18 inches. The rims are supposed to be not only price-wise but also qualitatively good. Of course I would prefer original rotor rims, but 700€ for a rim is simply too much for me. However, there is a problem: I just can’t find an online shop or dealer that you can order the rims about. I would be very happy if you could help me further.

Hello dear community! Have a question for you again And I have seen today a 5 gulf with rims 16 inch with very little rubber goods in about 215 35 R16 To my question Ride a Volvo c30 R Built. 2009 Have at present 215 50 R17 above. Can I also do this or is it allowed if I would also buy tires e.g. 215 40 R17 (not registered in the vehicle registration) So my rims would look the same much bigger Would my car then not lie too deep or are there still a Other hurdles or obstacles that I would have to observe? Would it of course have (if possible) Thank you and love greetings

Welcome to today’s riddle question with (hopefully) practical benefits Let’s imagine that we are somewhere with friends on a Sunday, a few kilometers from the home port, and when we leave the place, we find that some tires have decided to get rid of the annoying overpressure. Anyone who wants (or has to) to get home on the highway in this situation, and not only “to the next workshop” (which has to…), and also no desire for an ADAC-O rgie (just as a non-member) is, of course, happy about his useful tool and (instead of a spare wheel and flick-resistant Tirefit) full-fledged spare wheel… but, that is in most cases as old as the car, and in my case this already has half the H-mark behind it. And even if a tire in the UV-protected sheet metal pit ages less than an mounted one, it is no longer to be expected with the original wheel guide and the driving behaviour can change in the direction of adventure depending on the weather. And a summer tire is also what doesn’t make things better. Then you get angry, if you didn’t take care of it earlier, to take care of an alternative here. The first-aid kit steril part is also exchanged regularly, even if TÜV & co have always overlooked it and you never want to need it. The options are (in the rough, who knows more can say): – old summer tires from Leave 1998 on the unused steel rim and hope that it will not rain or snow in an emergency. – old winter tires after testing (the best of the 4) can be pulled onto the steel rim and hope that thanks to directional binding in an emergency it will catch one on the right side – new retreaded all-year or winter tires with non-track-bound profile can be mounted and hope that it is better than one of the previous variants Or in short: curing vs. directional ung vs. Cheapheimer. What would you like to drive around now if there is no serious alternative in the situation? (and please don’t make any probability calculations, that’s not the point of the question)

Hello community! At the last tire change from summer to winter bikes I thought that can’t be true, in one of the new summer tires a screw was stuck… Lucky luck, the retracted screw didn’t go through the profile, and the ripening steals the air… Well, calmly changed to the winter wheels. had already thought of getting a new set before the winter, but I decided that the tires will last 1 winter. Today I sit in my car and go, think What’s that funny noise? The popometer told me, somehow you’re sitting wrong… Right, looking, back right is a flat foot… Apparently I drove something into the rubber again… Now, of course, I need a quick new set of WR, have no balls to bend with the emergency bike through the area, especially if now finally the winter comes. I ask you for experience/recommendation for a new set of WR. Currently are on my Ford Mondeo EZ 01/2011 Contis mounted with the dimension 215 55 R 16 (were delivered on it). I don’t want to be a cheap homeer (Safety first), but it doesn’t have to be the most expensive model now. A reasonable price/performance ratio is in my mind… Yesterday in the advertising A.T.U advertised 15% on WR. As a branded A.T.U customer I once vowed not to use any workshop services there, maximum wheel purchase with assembly… So, I’m happy about your feedback and your recommendation. tell you who has a good & cheap dealer’s tip in the district of Dachau (85221), like it! Always pleasant and accident-free ride!

Hello, today on the way to school (about 30 km country road) everything was still normal, but on the way home I heard a relatively loud vibrating and pulsating noise at a little less than 60 km/h. I then checked the rims on lost force weights after the drive home, but found no place that looks like there was a weight on it. Maybe I didn’t really look, I’m not sure what that looks like. (I just assumed that the S I checked the wheel nuts with a torque wrench at 120 Nm and they are all fixed. The noise comes regardless of braking, my guess is a weight. The problem is that I have no idea about it. What else could that be? And does this sound even fit to a lost weight or do you notice it quite differently? Thanks in advance.

Hi, I drive the Audi A5 2.0 TDI Sportback (0588 / AXI) and I have the following data in my vehicle license: Field 15.1: 225/50 R17 94Y Field 15.2. 225/50 R17 94Y I have the summer tyres Michelin Primacy 3 with the size 225/50 R17 94Y currently on it. Unfortunately, the standard rim is ultra ugly, which is why I want to pull new rims up on these tyres. On the EC conformity determination the following is stated in field 35: Rowing/wheel combination axle 1: 225/50 R17 94Y / 7.5Jx17 ET28 axle 2: 225/50 R17 94Y / 7,5Jx17 ET28 Does that mean I can only take rims that have the ET28 or can I also take rims with any ET? I ask because if I limit the search to the rims 7.5Jx17 with the press-in depth to 28, I get only a minimal selection… Thanks for your help.

Hello together, as the title already says, I am concerned about whether you would change tyres in my place or would still drive without hesitation. I drive a lot of highways, especially longer distances. Unfortunately, the previous owner seems to have liked to travel with too little air. The logical consequence: Outside strong wear symptoms, main profile however still about 5-6mm. My lay eye tells me that this can be neither for the xDrive, nor for my general safety. This morning, however, local tyre dealers advised me to continue driving, as he does not yet see any need to raise new rubbers. How do you see this? Thank you!