Category: Reifen & Felgen Forum

Hi, I just bought a new caddy, because it had to be fast, it had to be one of the bars, otherwise I would probably have ordered all-year tyres when ordering. It was delivered with 205/55 R16 94H on 6Jx16 Alu ́s. The standard tyres in the appearance is 195/65 R15 91T Now I am thinking about how I might possibly switch to all-year tyres, or if I should get winter tyres on a second set (steel) rims. I drive only a little in h öhere regions, and with us on the Rhine there is only little snow. In addition, I have a relatively low total driving performance of approx. 9TKm per year. Advantage separate winter tyres: slightly better running characteristics in winter and in summer probably a little less wear Aluminium rims are not exposed to the road salt in winter Advantage All-year tires: cost and effort for 2x changing per year spared costs for steel rims storage of the tires no longer necessary A car driver has made me very clear about Win terpneus on the smaller steel rim. That would be such a common size, which would therefore be quite favorable (with it steel rim + Nokian WR D3 incl. assembly, valves, force and plugging for 110€/pcs=440€) In an inetshop I saw the combi incl. assembly, force, valves and delivery for still less than 100€ /4pcs (for changing then I still pay here about 20s). Can somehow not decide, what do you mean? And if, winter tires, someone knows the Nokian tires? W enn all-year tires, what’s in question? Greetings Tom

Hello Forists and professionals, I’m looking for winter tyres (yes, I’m early… I know) and since I will definitely never take advantage of the registered top speed in winter with winter tyres, I want to buy tyres that are below the index. In addition, a lower speed index significantly increases the selection of tyres. I don’t want to save on the tire, but only have a wide selection as far as possible. The registered top speed is 260k m/h. How far can I go down the index? I only know that I have to install a corresponding KLEBER in the field of view of the speedometer, that’s clear. But should I use the index to “throttle” on e.g. 210 or there are “rules” that you can only drive one or two steps per index under the registered top speed? Oh yes… the tyre size must be lt COC either 225/45R17 or 205/50R17. I don’t know what I choose, as there are no rims at the moment. The lowest load index mentioned in the papers is 91 = 615kg, the vehicle has a registered max. VA load of 1150kg = 575kg per page… if that matters. Thank you in advance!

Hi, I actually have nice BBS styling 42 rims in 18 inches for my BMW. Unfortunately, the previous owner never washed the rims or even somehow feet… How do I get the rims back in a reasonably good condition? Since they are two-piece rims, they have to be disassembled first for painting or powdering, so I would like to try to get the rims so nice again! Have already ordered aluminium devil, do you have any other good tips? Thank you

Hello, again the annual question. Now raise the winter tires or later. I have the following problem: At the moment and in the next 2 weeks it should be between 16 and 22°C. Next week I have vacation and drive to visit my parents, where also my tires are stored. I drive there about every 4 months. The tires are stored there because I can change them there with a real jack and I have the place for the tires there. Now it is still so warm but the next ma I’m not going there until Christmas. So the question, rather change now or hope that there is no snow in November and December and that it is at least over 0°C? I had bought the winter tyres only last year. Would it be a pity to drive them now. Alternative would be to take the tires and let them be stored. But that doesn’t tell me because of the storage and cultivation costs.

Hello ! My 4 summer tyres have a slight sawtooth profile on the tyre flanks, the profile depth is still 5-6mm, so still usable the parts. The rolling noise is however annoying, therefore something has to happen. My idea : Carefully cut the raised places away. My question before I snap for hours : Has anyone ever made this successful ? Sidewise change is not possible there running bound.

Hello to all I have once asked a fundamental question which I had asked yesterday already in another form. And this is about whether two new tyres should be mounted better on the front or rear axle. The ADAC recommends that new tyres always be mounted on the rear axle because of the track guidance, since a sling is more dangerous there than on the front axle. As far as understandable. Now, however, the ADAC also recommends to exchange the tyres regularly every 10,000 km, so that you gle After 10,000 km, however, this would mean that in the case of a fron-driven vehicle, the worse tyres are sitting on the rear axle. I have exactly this problem, since I currently have about one year old summer tyres on the rear axle, which still have a good 5-6 mm profile tip. Now I get two new tyres and think about where to mount them. I am primarily concerned about safety, not about the costs. do not buy 4 new tires if the other two are still new. I would be happy about answers, Many greetings Robin

hi people, I need urgent advice. for some time I have a very strange unbalance when driving, which I would like to describe briefly: approach: car purchased, original 19″ rims with summer tire, car ran perfectly! winter: used rims with winter tires bought, unfortunately these were broken (lake very uneven). after 90km again down and claimed. old rims from me with winter tires on it, a little unbalancen, but ok. then summer: summer tires on it, unbalancen da! mature dealer visited, which meant that the rear matures are at the limit. so new mature on it! rear rims with new matures to the front, front rims with old matures to the rear. unbalanced further available. so the 2 old matures are replaced by 2 new ones, as high stroke may be present at the mature: unbalanced further available! description: the car times 2-4 days, the unbalance is more noticeable, i.e. the steering wheel shakes visible. this usually starts from 110-120km/h, becomes less from 140 km/h. after about 80-100k m ride (1-2 days) the unbalance is no longer as strongly noticeable as at the beginning when it was standing. since the unbalance squeaking the brakes a little (only with light braking, that was last year not so / no jerking when braking detectable) troubleshooting(tests!): rims are in order (says the tyre dealer) new tires are everywhere on / running direction is right / pressure is right has already been balanced 3x (although at the last time unbalance has been determined, although 1 week before the balance was balanced was already balanced e / 2 different tire dealers) track was measured (everything ok, at the front right minimum except limit) you have an idea what it might be??? I’m really with my Latin at the end! the next option would be to have the rims measured with laser, but I don’t know that I drove somewhere against a curb or something like that, car was never borrowed either. did you guess? I don’t know more, everything else costs half a capacity to fix errors! daaaaanke

Dear Forum, I would like to know how big the differences in the wheel circumference between front and rear tyres can be. Specifically, the following tyres are mounted on my BMW 1er (F20): Front: Dunlop 225/40 ZR18 92Y (Sport MAXX RT2 XL) Rear: Dunlop 245/35 ZR18 92Y (Sport MAXX RT2 XL). These tyres should be almost identical in the wheel circumference. When I recently monetized my winter tyres and put the summer tyres in “their corner”, I noticed that the V The rear wheel tire is certainly 10-12 mm smaller in diameter. On the attached picture with the water scale is the tire on the left of the front wheel tires, on the right of the rear wheel tires. It is always said that 2-3 mm difference in the profile can lead to worse driving characteristics. But here is clearly more difference. All four tyres were mounted only about two months ago. t and still have almost full profile. They replace four Michelin Pilot Super Sport in the same sizes. I have never noticed before that the tires have such an obvious difference in diameter. Is this also the case with other vehicles / tires?

Good morning, topic with me: purchase of winter tyres/wheels from private via EBAY classified ads in the range of €2,000.. The wheels were described as follows: “Tyres have only run 1500km, absolutely as new”. I asked the seller for the DOT numbers, because they clearly indicate the age of the tyres. Background is that old tires clearly lose quality and safety (hardening, significantly less wet grip). He wrote to me: “DOT I have to look – the tires I got in June 2020 (this year!) bought for the main investigation -” I relied on it and did not ask for the numbers again explicitly. Now the wheels were sent to us for referral. Profile is actually almost new. However, with the DOT numbers one can see that the two front ones were produced in calendar week 16/2015 and the two rear ones in calendar week 41/2015 and are therefore 5 years or older. There is no legal regulation on how long tyres are In the net you can find this: “The Bundesverband Reifenhandel und Vulkaniseur-Handwerk e.V. (BRV) states that tyres up to an age of up to 3 years are considered factory new. Unused tyres with an age of up to 5 years are still considered new. According to ADAC, new tyres should not be older than two years. At Quick Reifenservice only tyres are sold as new products, which according to DOT number are not older than 3 years. Thus you get only new tires. But also tires older than 3 years can be used safely, but then they have a lower service life.” I feel deceived by the seller, he stands on the point that he has provided me with all the information truthfully. This is annoying insofar as we could have had the same wheels with DOT numbers from mid-2017 and end of 2019 for significantly less money. Finally, the indication “absolutely new” and “buried only this What are our chances of “reduction” or even “reduction”? VG and thank you

Hello I have since June my first car, a Nissan Qashqai J11 petrol. Now I would need winter tyres soon, but I thought instead to buy all-year tires. Unfortunately I have absolutely no idea of the matter. I know that all-year tires are always a compromise. I do not know however to what extent this is relevant to my driving profile and wanted to ask here the experts. I drive during the week about 30-40 kilometers per day, but only city. On weekends i 300km, of which about 200km highway, 50km highway, 50km city. On the highway I usually drive a maximum of 180km/h, most of the time more 140km/h. Are all-year tires a suitable choice for me with this driving profile? I would, of course, buy all-year tires from a “Premium” manufacturer, so I don’t want to save on it. Thank you.