Category: Reifen & Felgen Forum

Hello, say hello So according to TÜV my wheel bolts (or actually they are standing bolts or?) are too short. The wheel nuts go up only 5 turns instead of the required 7. So replace standing bolts, so far no problem, 1 I could hit out on the car (could the others get out like that). But have a bad feeling in the built-in condition to knock around so I wanted to remove the recording in which the bolts are stuck. So the splint out and now I get the mother nic Ht solved (marked on the picture, btw. What is this mother’s name? Is this the wheel hub nut?) I have something stuck on the existing bolts so that the recording does not turn further while I solve the mother however a great effort would be necessary. And therefore I don’t want to tear anything off or anything like that, I thought to ask you how to solve the mother correctly or whether more violence would be the solution. Bzw. How does it look to make it tight again? Greetings and thanks in advance

Moin, I touched the curb with an Opel Astra K at 30 km/h with the front wheel. A piece of rubber is missing in the tire flank. See my photo. The damage is about 3mm deep. Wire was not to be seen or felt. The car was rented, damage I reported, and my question: If the landlord now changes both front tyres, what would that cost me in the worst case? So rather 200, 300 or 500 €? The Astra had a speedometer up to 270 km/h. Probably it was the 1.6 Turbo, the 235 k m/h driving. Since I don’t have a car of my own, I miss experience. Thank you very much.

Hi, I need new winter tires next year. Since the summer tires only last 2 seasons, I have thought about getting new rims + all year round tires. The alternative would be to buy summer + winter tires again of course. The problem is: The only approved tyre size for summer tires on my vehicle gives me the following product selection: Achilles ATR-K Economist Nankang Ultra Sport NS-2 Nankang NS-20 Nankang Sportnex NS-2R Linglong Green-Max Duraturn Mozzo S Toyo Proxes TR1 (very! expensive) The Bridgestone Potenza summer tires I’ve driven so far are no longer in production and probably no longer come back. As can be seen from the list, this is a cross-section of the Asian tyre culture + very expensive Toyo tires, which according to the test are not so good either. Does the Motor-Talk Reifen&Felgen Forum think that it would be smarter, new rims + all-year tires from renominated manufacturers (you can choose from Goodyear, Vredestein, Hankook) to buy, or to bite in the sour apple, and to try out a Linglong tire? The tires have to maintain their 7 years expected life and must not turn into lubricating soap from the 2nd season, having something to consider. However, all-year tires are also not so 100% what for the curve robber in summer, right?

Hello together, I drive a Golf 7 GTD and have Ultra Wheels UA9 19 inch ET 45 mounted with 225/35 tires. Otherwise nothing has changed on the vehicle. Now the problem was that I needed new TÜV. I enclosed the test report for the rims, because I assumed that the rims can be entered on the vehicle without any problems. The examiner probably disagreed because somehow the fenders for these rims would have to be widened. Is it a mystery why no chts grinds a little bit or something like that and there is nothing about it. Has anyone ever had similar experiences or maybe another expert opinion than is provided on the Ultra Wheels page ? To an answer I would be very grateful Many greetings

Hello, today I noticed the damage to the rim on the back left of my car. A few weeks ago I definitely wasn’t there. Yesterday I was still driving and I didn’t notice anything. Can’t explain at all how the damage should have been done, because the damage is partly not within the highest points of the rim. In addition, I always park only with the right side to the curb. Is there someone coming up against me? Or looks After a typical self-inflicted damage?Sometimes there was so white stuff on the rim (sometimes you can see in the picture)? Is that from the rim? Or did someone try to overdo something? Would I be very pleased about your experience, since I have no idea of cars.

Hello all, I bought a used BMW 4 Series GC in March. It was tired all around with Winter Sport 4D ROF, the rear tires the dealer replaced with M3, because in the middle of the car the 4D on the front axle is 2 years old, has 28Tkm down, unfortunately a sawtooth, is hardened because it was previously moved with winter tires also in summer. The noises coming from the sawtooth are increasing. Profile is still good 5-6mm. The consideration for the front axle would be two I have now considered the following tyres: -DUNLOP WISPM3 225/50 R17 94 H – F, E, 1, 67dB -RUN-ON-FLAT *-EXHIBITION M+S -HANKOOK W310 225/50 R17 94 V – F, C, 2, 72dB HRS RUN FLAT M+S -PIRELLI W210S2 225/50 R17 94 H* – E, C, 2, 72dB ? Specific saw tooth inclination? On the Dunlop website it is described as “high performance with comfortable tuning”, but otherwise hardly anything can be found. Hankook and Pirelli have an asymmetrical profile, are a bit cheaper than Dunlop, but should be louder. Advantage M3 would be the same profile VA/HA What do you think about it?

Would like to buy in short rims with the above mentioned tire size. I made two rims in the short choice, but two different wide ones. Actually I like the rims with the 8 inch width better but make me worry that the look suffers from it at 245 to 8 inch. Does anyone have experiences or images ready with 8 rims on 245 tires? Thank you

hello,just wanted to give a general warning! have bought me last season new linglong matures in 215/40-17. wanted to reassemble now this year and have determined that all 4 matures have got cracks on the flanks inside and outside and at some places extremely arched. am then directly to my mature dealer and he has said he must claim the matures at the manufacturer. that would last about 10-12 weeks and I would then directly from the manufacturer a have one of you had similar experiences? and how did you end up with the credit? by the way, I have now listened to the recommendation of my dealer and had the nexen n3000 installed! am I curious how that one is? I would be happy to answer about you! mfg maba23

Hello forum, on my vehicle (front milling machine, 1.8 T curb weight) I drive as original equipment a Michelin Primacy HP in 97W. Even if the experience values are mixed here in the forum, I have to go with my opinion/assessment in “direction” of “tyrereviews”. There is quite often the unpleasant habit of this tire: from about 50 kmh onwards the tire starts to produce vibrations as well as noises. And this on almost all road surfaces, only a certain motorway cut. t at Düsseldorf gave me an absolutely quiet ride. Therefore also my guess, that it is the tire and not the brand new car. Since this is a summer tire, I can imagine several options: – another SR is purchased, the Michelin goes into the bay, since the new one does not cause vibrations – the same scenario with a GJR. But please spare me a fundamental discussion ! – The new one is just as loud, then you can keep the Michelin. .. and And so on and so on … Also the purchase of a WR would be conceivable, but a 2 set rims would then be the result. Ergo: is there a tyre that can serve as a comparison tire (evidently vibration-arm)? I would buy it on suspicion and test it. Thanks in advance for your help.

Hello, I was recently at the tyre dealer and this had recommended me the above-mentioned falcon tire. After my research I had decided almost already for the Michelin. Prices would be as follows: Michelin: 483,12(incl. 40 € cashback) € + 76,16 € complete assembly Falken: 394,12 (incl. 20 € tank card) + 76,16 € complete assembly I then looked for again on the internet and saw that there is a lot to save: Michelin: 384,12 (incl. 10 % ebay discount) + complete assembly Falken : 265,5 €(incl 10% ebay discount) + complete assembly My question would be how expensive the assembly is then in a third-party workshop or if they even install third-party tyres? Would be at least 100 € Erpsarnis, if the assembly costs no more than when ordering directly. Incidentally, drive a Ford Focus Mk2 with 145 HP. Pendulum but relatively long distances to work, which is why the tire should last long. vg