I would like to ride MICHELIN summer tyres on my X3 35d. But no more RF (they ride on the front flanks terribly off). MICHELIN offers only the Primacy (with*) for my vehicle (v. 245/45 R19; h. 275/40 R19), only as RF! On the other hand, there is the Pilot Sport as Non RF, but only in MO, for Mercedes. Question: Can I also raise the latter on BMW and can have this negative consequences? Additional question: How is the Hankook K117?
Category: Reifen & Felgen Forum
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Wide tires on narrow rim or rather wide rim without a centring?
Hello forum, I ask here my first question in the hope to get competent help. My name is Sebastian and I drive a motorhome on Ducato 244 4×4 base with so many modifications that the side sheet is already almost full, so it is not a vehicle from the pole. I currently drive 245/70 R16 tyres on 7×16 aluminium wheels, but these rims have not been available for a long time. Since it is a long distance travel/offroad vehicle a spare wheel in tyres would be For the desired tyre size, rims of at least 6.5″ width are prescribed. I have the following options: -Buy an aluminium rim which then visually does not match the others and is also only 6.5″ wide. (I would like to avoid this is Plan B) – Buy steel rim which 6.5″ wide are but have a too large center hole, these then center over the wheel screws or can one use centring rings as with aluminium rims? -On the original steel rim which is only 6″ wide I ask for your opinion, experience and knowledge about the two preferred solutions, i.e. steel rim too narrow or with inappropriate middle hole. Please no comments with: why not simply reduce tires with the same circumference, you will not get that through the TÜV (no one will be interested in what is “allowed” if I mount my spare tires in Georgia) or centring on steel rim is not allowed… that was not the question, the question e was “happens” and not “happens”. Many thanks and greetings, Sebastian
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Calculation of operating costs: winter/summer vs. year-round tyres
Hello, we bought a new car (a Renault Megane 1.6). The car is 14 months old and comes with a set of winter and a set of summer tires. We have always used only universal tires, so the theme is new for us. We live in Bremen, there you get quite well without. The car has driven 22,000 km, so I assume that the tires each have about 10,000 km down (brand summer is goodyear; winter I get to know only on the pick-up day). The questions: 1. Is it realistic to sell the 8 existing tires used, and to buy one set of universal tires from the proceeds? 2. If you expect to need new universal tires every 4 years (we drive about 15,000 km a year), would you be able to exchange the seasonal tires every 8 years, so keep seasonal tires twice as long as full-year tires? Have you read that winter tires should be exchanged every 6 years at the latest. 3. What if I then n can’t I do it myself, i.e. about 80,- / year) ? In the bottom line, is it worth to switch directly to universal tyres?
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New summer tires necessary?
Hello, we got a used Toyota Yaris in 2011 (built in 2007) with 65,000 km. There were summer tires from Michelin (DOT 2009). These are alternating with the winter tires on the car, which has now reached 135,000 km. We want to drive the car for a few more years… now the questions about the summer tires: – profile approx. 2.5-3 mm (uniformly driven off) – slightly porous at the transition outside -> running surface The next years the car will be “degraded” to the second car and if we invest something, then best now (Tüv is new- car had on it at the Tüv time but winter tyres from 2015 are on, oil and brake fluid changes are on). Father-in-law thinks renewal is unnecessary, because enough profile and tires are not yet old… Objective information is hard to find on the Internet, except that 1.6mm are the minimum. How do you see this?
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Tyres with high altitude – dealer needs more than 5 months to test.
Hello all, I ordered 4 new tyres from an online retailer at the beginning of April 2018. Right after the assembly it was noticed that all 4 tyres have a height impact. I drove about 100km, because I thought that tyres were wrongly balanced. The online retailer had all the tyres picked up and after only more than 5! months there is still no decision. I announced with deadline that I would undo the purchase. The dealer does not respond to this. Do you have tips on what I can/can? VG, Andy
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Are you still riding tires?
Hello I have here a tire & rim, which is damaged by a curb -probably – (did not get it unfortunately) tire type : Hankook Ventus EVO2 K117 225/35 ZR19 88Y XL, FR (PKW-Summer) rim type : Oxigin 18 Concave ( Silver, Grey ) 7,5×19 ET51 5×112. After I picked up my car from the inspection ( inspection report was complete order also tire inspection optical and pressure ) and after that I had been shopping for the first time, since the damage ( see picture ) a of course I fell back to the Skoda dealer. But he told me that you can continue with it. And now I still wanted to hear your opinion here in the forum. So fabric is not there at this point rim protection and the Skoda dealer said that this spot is also thicker. How is your opinion? Mfg Artur
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different profile depth at the front, does it harm the car?
Hello all, car: Corsa B 1.5 TD, 2000, driving to 70-80% only motorway, rather defensive driving mode, on average with 100 km/h on the road. Over the winter I drive a maximum of 2000 km. Tyre size: 165/70 R13 Now I will soon buy two new winter tires (Fulda Kristall Montero 3). Both come to the rear axle, as you should hear again and again the better tires come! So on the front axle I still have a mixed tire at the moment (Rheinland) that means front on the left a winter tire Bridgestone Blizzak LM 18 from 2004 with 4-5 mm profile depth and on the right a summer tire Firestone. I know that this is a no-go in winter! So since I have an additional winter tire: Maloya Cresta 220 (from 2007) with a good 7 mm profile I would like to attach this front right. The question is now whether it has a bad effect for the vehicle if you have a winter tire with 4-5 mm profile on the front axle on the left and a rich 7 mm in the front right? And yes I know that apart from the profile depth difference it is not very great to have different tyre profiles on one axle! If it is bad for the car due to differential or so I would buy a third Fulda winter tire and then would have less profile depth difference at the front because the Maloya with 7 mm has almost new tyre profile depth. PS: if someone has new quality tires over, I might be interested in it. 165/70 R13 no longer exists.
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Tyre size – what is it now?
Servus I have the problem that I can not really understand the registration certificate. ( Ford Cougar BCV 2.0 16V 96 kW/131 PS ) I have here in field 15.1 215/50R16 84 and15.2 215/50R16 84 As far as everything is clearly only in field 22. “A.GEN. 205/60R15 84V A. LM-RAD RIAL, 7JX15H2, ET 40MM. Has the previous owner had a smaller tyre size entered, do I understand that correctly?
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Tyres specialization (front drive / rear drive / all-wheel drive)
Recently there are more manufacturers of tires they want to appeal to special customers. Especially for SUV vehicles the trend towards tires is especially for 4×4 drive. Certainly, normal SUVs are used to 98.9% on paved roads. Rural SUV drivers will certainly drive off and on a dirt road at step speed. But why then especially costs for development, marketing and production is not opened up to me. A SUV will certainly identical requirements to make a car tire like upper class limousines. As there are many different criteria such as dry handling, wet handling, side guide, rolling resistance and material mix, it is a complex topic. Extra reinforced tires on the sidewall etc. are not to be found with 4×4 tires, except for extreme offroad tires with extra terrain characteristics. Whether I have an upper class vehicle front or rear drive is ultimately not for the purchase decision In the SUV, however, it is pointed out in the sales brochures that it is an optimized tire for modern SUV`s. In the end, however, it is uninteresting whether a tire is driven or “only” rolls along. How do you see the topic and would you rather order a tire specifically for SUV ́s that are somewhat more expensive compared to “normal” tires.
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Wheel screws/bolts follow…important or nurse’s tale??
Moin if you let the wheels change at the tyre lifter or the workshop… usually the sticker in the car hangs ”wheel screws pull up 50km” often or mostly I do that….from time to time I have forgotten it has never happened anything… what does it look like… with you, everyone thinks about it or falls that sometimes is a nurse’s fairy tale or really an absolute MUST..?? am curious what the experts say here…l mfg Andy