Category: Reifen & Felgen Forum

Hello, I had the Goodyear Vector 4Seasons Gen1 (16 inch) on top of my Golf BJ 2015 as standard equipment. After about 40,000km of mileage and because the Vectors were a bit “greasy” in the summer, I got 17″ summer tyres this summer and wanted to use the Goodyears seasonally as winter tyres. (as winter tires do their purpose very well). If I now change the tires again towards winter, the question arises to me whether it is still worth it (or even if it is not possible) After the approximately 40,000km on my golf, the front tyres still have about 5.5mm and the rear ones about 7.5mm – so both are still related to the recommended profile depth in the green area, but already very different. The front tyres already have the probably normal many small cracks on the tread, the rear ones almost not at all. I had either before: 1) the tyres now again axle-wise) to replace the GJR times axle-wise, as some recommend? e to exchange compared to before (?) 2) to get me possibly 2 new GJR (then probably the Vector Gen2) from Goodyear and to remove the already somewhat worn 5.5mm tires, but to drive the rear 7.5mm even further. Are here recommendations regarding the condition of the tires and whether one should make an exchange from front to back still? Thank you and greeting

Hi, I put on my Fox rims that had a Fabia I on it before. The rims could probably only be mounted with centring rings (tires were newly tightened and immediately mounted on the car). Now I have the rims on my Fox on it and on the rear axle the rims did not “hang” on the wheel hub, so I had to press and hold the rims on the wheel hub when screwing firmly. Does that mean the centring rings have to be out? When driving everything is super nothing wobbles or vibrates The dekra didn’t notice anything but I had it registered. Normally the rim stops at the wheel hub, but on the rear axle that wasn’t the case. Nevertheless, the car is still inconspicuous. What do you think? Better out of it, or is everything like it supposed to be? Especially since it was only on the rear axle that the rims were not held by the hub. Does this possibly have something to do with the drum brake? Don’t know it that way. All my vehicles “hang” the rims to the wheel hub. Greetings

Hello guys, I need winter tyres as 18″ mixed tyres under the following conditions: The car will certainly not experience a snowy Alpine pass. The price only plays a role with products that are otherwise equivalent. Unfortunately, the rear axle restricts the selection enormously. I have chosen the following: The order represents my personal ranking, which is based on my gut feeling. Does it make sense to differ in front and back? The tyres of Michelin, Conti and Pirelli are already quite old, correct? The last three seem to have been on the market since 2016 (?). What are the last three of them, of which at least the Koreans are attractive at the price? Which would you take?

Hello dear community, I have a problem with my E92 from 2007. My question would be whether these tyres can still be driven without problems (legally). As according to… § 36 StVZO in the wording “Air tyres on motor vehicles and trailers must be equipped with profile grooves or cut-in on the whole circumference and width of the tread. The main profile must have a profile depth of at least 1.6 mm on the whole circumference; the main profile shall be the wide profile grooves in the middle The wheel crash and air pressure has been adjusted. But 110€ for a new or 2 for 220€, for the axle is a bit too bad for me. Since 3-4mm profile is still present in the middle. I am happy about every answer. Tires: Hankook Ventus V12 Evo 2 235/35 ZR19 91Y Ps: The last picture is of one of the unexcited tires.

Hi, in 2017 I had bought 4x Nexen N8000 in size 235 35 R19. Last year I had to replace both front ones because of a defective track rod head (run now Falken FK453) Then I drove again – front falcon rear nexes. I noticed that the wheels became louder and louder in the back then over 2018, besides that my crossbars had been knocked out and the dampers already had it behind them. September 2018 then complete axle revision. New coiled suspension and rear all jacks and crossbars new. Adjust and then shortly afterwards the brand new winter flaps on it. After the winter season the tires looked really top. Were quiet and just downhill. (Debica Frigo HP2) I knew that the Nexen sawtooth had, but since I was a little short at checkout, I wanted to drive them a year further. Now on the weekend I once one wheel had to disassemble because of a completely different thing and I saw the disaster: the tires have/have deformed correctly. First thought where I saw this: damper defective. On the other side exactly the same only not so bad. Right hills have formed there. But not over the whole tread but only inside. On the photos only the worst places of all is photographed. Around the wheel it is not uniformly deformed. now Falken FK510 ordered and will have the tyres changed this week. I have already noticed that the tyres are getting louder and louder but I’ve almost used to it. Now the question is: Can such damage to the tire simply be a consequence that I drove with the sawtooth from the previous year or do I probably have a defect on the chassis? At the back, dampers and springs from AP came new to the car and axle measurement was made according to manufacturer specifications. has minimal traces as if there was some oil running out? But when you wipe over with your finger it doesn’t seem greasy or anything. Looks like the stuff has been on it forever. I called AP and they think it can be normal. Wipe and watch.

Hello, ride the Conti TS 850P since 4 winter (50,000 km) Now I have measured the profile depth to see if there is a change. Profile depth (see also picture) Outside: 4mm Center: 6mm Inside: 5mm Which value should now be decisive for me? And if we are there which would you take (BMW 520D F11 rear wheel) – Goodyear Ultragrip Performance Gen1 (480 Euro) – Conti WinterContact TS850P (550 Euro) – Michelin Alpin 5 (590 Eur) Thank you

Hello your experts, I hope someone who has the idea can help me! I bought a w140 some time ago on the very nice and m.E. optically perfectly fitting Rial 18 inch with 255/45R18 tires were mounted. These rims are in combination with this tire dimension entered in the vehicle license and possess the press-in depth 45 (according to vehicle license). Unfortunately later it turned out that two of the rims have irreparable damage. Unfortunately, these rims are no longer manufactured, at least not in the appropriate size, so only ebay remains. At ebay, I even found the rims, but with the only difference that they do not have the ET45, but ET35. And now my question: is this a problem? can I buy the rims and mount them on them or do I have to go to the TÜV and can I drive different injection depths on VA and HA? To my knowledge, the ET35 and the ET45 both have an expert report or ABE for this type of vehicle. Does the TÜV then cause problems or do I simply have to register this, how do I best proceed here? Is it theoretically possible to drive to the TÜV with the rims that have not yet been approved or should I take them with me better in the trunk and first assemble and present them on site? Thanks already for reading through! Greetings from Munich The Master

Hello, I have to buy new summer bikes already found the right rims, now that it is driving so badly on rims, I should still have matching tires. I can’t decide whether to buy 205/40 17 or 215/40 17. At the moment 195/60 15 are mounted with winter tires and with them the car gets quite well. But now I’m afraid that this changes with the wider tires, because I have only over 100 hp. So question number 2 is which tires odell? I personally am convinced of the Bridgestone Potenza that my father on his Subaru has, but the Pirellis ( P Zero ) that my brother had on his car were also not without. Now he has Hankooks Ventus which I don’t find so. So to me it’s most important that the tire sticks, comfort, volume let’s leave everything out, I’m still young. He should actually just keep like crazy. Which tires do you suggest to me.

Since summer is already summer, one should have actually mounted summer tyres on the car. As far as I am informed, however, there is no obligation to mount summer tyres in summer and winter tyres in winter on the car. It is only a recommendation and you have to adjust the tyres to the weather. That would mean theoretically, if it snows in summer at night and snow is on the paint cream that then you would have to mount winter tyres. So actually an unconsidered set My questions: What are the disadvantages when driving with winter tires in the summer? Do it have to be brand tires or do such cheap China tires also do something? I bought my car in Sept. 2013, but I didn’t like the summer tires / rims that were mounted. New rims in size 18 inches but all would cost 700-800 euros with rubber. I want to have thick rims on my car, but I don’t want to throw that much money out of the window. I don’t see what kind of tires there are, because the rims are in the foreground. I haven’t seen a person who has looked at the brand of the rims on my car…..

Hello together I have a question what does the 8 compartment mature ? Heist that I have 4 winter tires with rims and 4 summer tires with rims ? and can someone tell me what the original summer tire of audi a5 looks like ? have such a feeling the garageist wants to fuck with me … thank you