Category: Reifen & Felgen Forum

Hello, I want to measure my car tires myself in the future, because either the vending machines are defective, full, or imprecise! Tire pressure is about 2.5 bar Since I don’t want to buy a cheap stand pump because they are usually not good and I want to have the few years I’m willing to invest up to 150 euros. It’s important to me that it is robust, precisely measures the pressure, and I don’t have to pump myself dead if I have to increase the pressure by 0.5 – 0.8 bar, and if necessary. Digital manometer but no need Does anyone have experience or purchase advice ??? I already have 2 products in mind, but am not sure ……. whether the 2 products are what for me if I have to increase only e.g. 0.5 – 0.8 bar. Tyre pressure is 2.5 bar 1. Unfortunately, no Digital 1. SKS racing compressor 2. you have to release the pressure before pumps and then via lever 2. Lezyne DigitalVideo to Lezyne

Hello due to open rim designs, I made the effort to remove the remains of the old adhesive weights during the last wheel change….. In the end, with considerable time expenditure, I came to success with plastic spatula and nitro… Is it also easier? Greeting Dirk

I’ve been driving the Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2 since 3 seasons and I’m expressing my enthusiasm here in the forum every time it’s discussed or asked about it. I’m very interested in what your experiences with the Pirelli Cinturato P7 Blue are. It’s not about the Pirelli P7 and not about the Pirelli Cinturato P7 (without Blue). I’ve read all the tests but I’ve read objective opinions about the I didn’t find any of those who drove the Blue. It’s also not about the question why I’m not driving the Goodyear’s. I’ll think about that later. Thank you.

I drive the Vector 5 from Goodyear and am a bit unsure about the correct tyre pressure. While VW is showing 1.9 atü at the front and rear respectively, Goodyear demands at least (!) 2.9 atü. As a single driver I was satisfied with 2.3 atü, and I already have the feeling that the car really seems to “jump” on the road. An unusual driving feeling anyway. How do I behave right now? What’s right? Thank you for an answer.

Hello guys, today it was time to change tyres. Unfortunately, something went wrong with my girlfriend. After the tyre change there are blows with her during cornerings. Not in the steering wheel, but as a noise. I thought at first, they botched and the tyres didn’t fix properly, but that wasn’t it. Since we were the last ones, the shop had already closed too… The noise is so far only in curves. Otherwise it is not available for trips up to 70kmh straight ahead. Do you have any idea what that could be? I have absolutely no idea… Short to the car: Hyundai i30 1.6 CRDI.

Hello guys, I want to buy new rims soon, and this one here: Click So I drive an Astra G 1.6 16V. So I would like to know now which tires I should buy to the rims?? 205/50 R16 tires? So right now I have 14 inches as winter tires and 15 inches as summer tires, both on aluminum. And in the vehicle license there is then under 22 more entries: 205/50R16 87H Michelin/MXM A.FEL. 6JX16; ET49MM. So my question would now be which tires I have for the new rims bra uche whether the rims have to be registered and whether I have to have other work done if I have the new rim installed? New chassis?? Don’t know me that way and hope, can help me. ^^ Mfg

This is worth an entry for me – we had made a stopover at Reifen-Helm in Neumünster on the transit from Denmark to Switzerland. We arrived immediately after a short waiting time, 4 tires, filter and engine oil were changed, missing parts were delivered by courier in 30 min, the price was very good, the service really very hard to us. After a few days we had to go to a Swiss garage, because the oil filter was leaking, or not very firmly screwed we had to pay a new change. Although I only sent a Schrieb to Reifen Helm after a few months later, whether it would be possible for us to reimburse the repair in Switzerland, to our greatest surprise the whole amount was actually refunded. I do not think I had experienced that so kulant, thank you very much. Hyundai Atos Prime BJ 2006, with a lot of windsurfing luggage “on board ” 😉

can you repair such a mature? there was a screw inside that goes through and when making out the mature also loses air. picture is attached and sorry for the quality. the mature is half a year old and not 20km run

Hello people, was today at the TÜV, because I needed an appointment for a reduction of the track plates after 19.2. I asked the examiner how this runs with the removal of rims with other LK by means of offset screws. In my case from LK110 (Opel) to LK112 (MB, Audi). He told me that you have called back all the reports in Germany and you get rims with other LK only with adapter plates (as with the RH rims). Even the reports of the rims in which offset is registered. This is the case with the rims, in which the use of the offset screws was explicitly permitted or prescribed. For example, the Dotz Mugello in 8×18 ET35 with LK112, which could be driven on the Opel with the offset screws. That would further restrict the choice of rims for the LK110. Here there are almost only old designs, especially for combinations of wider rims at the rear… Is there anything written?

Hi, I would like to buy new rims for my S90 because I don’t have any winter rims yet. Since I don’t want to buy original Volvo rims (not because of the price, but because of the design), I am currently extremely hard to find the right dimensions here. Lt. website has the following dimensions: Hole circle: 5×108 ET:47 Hub diameter: 63.4 Screws: 14×1.5 Unfortunately, there are hardly any accessory rims with this hole circle. I need the exact dimensions for the final rim. And here I have the problem: Which J & ET can I build? How much can the J & ET differ from the original? I am interested in the following rims:KLICK Thank you for your information.