Category: Reifen & Felgen Forum

Hello, I have a question, because I don’t know about tyres so much. I have seen an offer where someone offers Triangle Talon 205 40 ZR 17 tyres. They only drove a summer, but still needed. The corresponding rims look very good. However, I have already read various opinions about the tires. Can someone possibly tell me if I should look around otherwise or if you don’t live like this with the tires? I thank you already in advance. Greetings

Search for the VW bus new tyres in 225/60 15. Lt. Internet search the BRIDGESTONE Turanza ER300 cuts quite neatly during tests. Basically, the size of the market is already somewhat manageable… Is the tire really good? Or would you advise? What alternative? Pirelli P7 should have high wear, Conti SCS2 is more expensive and somehow older (I already have CSC3 at the Audi, I don’t like to spend money on the previous model).

Tomorrow, my girlfriend’s (old) new panda knows the following problem, better the CEC3. The tire is (despite correct track/sturz) one-sided, apparently typical of this panda original tire. It looks like the following (longitudinal grooves from the outside to the inside): 1.8mm profile depth, 4.2mm and 3.8mm. In all three rooms there are the index markers. Attention: this is not about the safety aspect but about the legal side. My question: where must the 1.6mm exactly m be edible? Thank you very much

hello together…. we drive an opel zafira c tourer 2.0 bj 4/2014 with tire pressure control we bought the car 4 months ago used! we need winter tires now!!! have found on ebaysmall advertisements for a narrow taler which , the problem , they have no tire pressure control! what does it look like legal and technical???? may / can I drive them??? legal think yes!!!?? the car is 4/2014 but only from 11/2014 is it obligatory!!!?? but what does it look technically a us?? beep it all the time, all the time comes a error message in the display? thanks for your help! Greetings Thorsten

Hello, I bought a few weeks ago used BMW Styling 32 rims from a private man. Seller said that the rims were balanced and run perfectly round. But then I mounted them and they were very strong. Then I had them balanced out, there were also some weights needed. After that they were still iced, then I bought new tires because I thought it was the tires and the old tires had only about 2 mm profile anyway. The problem remained with the new tyres and the rebalancing. I had them balanced again today and it still eates at 80-100 km/h. Meanwhile the problem only appears spordaic, so sometimes I can easily accelerate up to 110, sometimes it jerks completely, while driving downhill it tends to be better, which I can’t explain at all.. If I put my winter tyres on it, everything is fine, everything runs calmly. Because new tyres are mounted Now I’m going to conclude that the rims have a blow… Is there anything you can do? And can I do something against the seller? In the sales contract the seller confirms that the rims are running around. Greetings, Jan

Hello. I work in a small workshop with tire service. I can’t press myself any more before this RDKS history and have a few questions. Purchase? What do I need as a beginner? 1. Programming device (I love using the Ateq VT56 SE) 2. Installation tool (case) with torques ?? 3. Starter set with service kits for valves?? 4. Universal RDKS sensors (for customers with defective sensors) Of course, the best thing is universal with as much coverage as possible. d sets would you recommend? According to my boss it shouldn’t cost much of course. To the person. I have a stage, 30 years I mount tires, Hofmann equipment and unfortunately no contact regarding tire service and so. No band connected and also no connections to newsletter for tire fitters. So even after 30 years pretty clueless…. We don’t mount many tires, but maybe more than other smaller workshops and are also at many online tire hands rn listed as an assembly partner. Maybe someone can give me information and give me a few tips from practice. E.g. what do you do if you pull the tires up and you can’t release the valve nut when it’s jammed. And is you really obliged to install the valve (steel) with new service kits (if mother can’t be solved)? In the car dealership all this is clearly exchanged, but how do you do it in a small workshop with customers who only have small money n? LG Lille

Hello, I have a special question about my vehicle license. I found nothing on the internet. I drive a MX5 na . I would like to put 9jx16 rims on it. (I know how this affects the driving behaviour) So in the vehicle license such a rim size is already registered by the previous owner. Can I then have the new rims registered without any problem? Are not just the same brand as in the fzgschein but the same size. Then there stands just VUH. : 215/40R16(which rim…); ZUS. RADAB DECK. A. ACHSE2 REQUEST. So the rim size is entered in front and back? And I need an additional cover at the back??? What is this???? I would be very grateful about help!!!!!

Hello, I had contact with my current Rial M10 rims once again, this time even with rough scratches on a double spoke. Due to the convex construction of most rims, the spokes are slightly in front of the rim horn and are therefore at risk. Now the rial looks really bad, repair costs as much as a new rim. I have therefore searched for concave rims and found the Dotz Revvo. On all product photos the spokes seem to lie further inside, a boron dstein-Kontakt would therefore only hit the rim horn. But now I also know that the distance spokes – rim horn of course also depends on the dimension of the rims. So now my request to all who drive a Dotz Revvo or have someone in the familiar circle with this rim: Do the spokes actually lie deeper than the rim horn, if yes, how much? I would need this assessment for a rim with 17×7.5 or 18×8 inches, as I will decide between these sizes. kk in advance for your answers!

On my just bought CLK so Protzer rims with wide flaps (245/40/17), no winter tires .. the car drives with the thick flaps very nervous, on the highway you notice every groove … but chic looks. Now I am superior: – rims with WR lying down, the Protzer wheels continue in the summer, comfort, what is the – rims SR and WR new, better comfort but considerable effort – rims with all-year tire, thick flaps ticking I did before some trips with d I know I’m asking a quasi-religious question, but you can tell me the path to enlightenment (for this particular model)

Hello together, I have a problem at the moment that I have never experienced before in this way: I bought my BWM last December, there were logically winter tires on it, the summer tires incl. original BMW Alus got so to it and had them stored in the workshop of my trust. As far as unspectacular. Car runs super and supple as it is heard. Today I decided to let the aluminiums with the summer tires finally pull on it incl. Au When I was driving the first 100 m, I thought I was hit by the blow. The tires slag back and forth that it is no longer sacred. With every small unevenness/gulli/sinked curb, it rips the steering wheel almost out of my hand. I don’t mean the trembling that you sometimes know at higher speeds, that I already had with other cars, that’s something quite different. So again, with both hands clamped on the steering wheel, back to the workshop. n checked, unbalance weights checked, rims inspected, but all good. Colleagues there for fun again made winter tires on it, I drove around the block, cart runs perfectly, like on rails. So problem is definitely the tires / rims. No solution found, no idea, now I’m hopping here, with a BMW, which can only be steered by the road conditions and not by me. How can such a thing be??? Summer tires are still good, not 3 years old, profile absolutely Is around 225/45 R17 Continental. The winter tyres that ran well were Hankook 195/65 R15. I don’t really have a chance to get new tyres and rims for a four-digit amount… Has one of you ever experienced such a thing??? I would be really grateful for ideas…