Category: Reifen & Felgen Forum

Hello, I drove a plate into my summer tires. There is a screw in it. First of all not bad, since I would have raised my winter tires anyway. Now I think about what to do. It’s Dunlop Sportmaxx 225/45 17 91W and have a Dot 1915 with a profile depth of ~4,5mm. What do you do? What do you think? If a repair comes into question, what can it cost? Thank you for your help!

Hello, I had my winter tyres mounted on aluminium wheels today. Car is Suzuki Swift 1.2 NZ. I asked the mechanic with how much torque he pulled the wheel bolts, he said 140Nm. When I came home I read in the operating instructions that Suzuki recommended a suit torque of 100Nm. I called the mechanic, described the situation and he offered me to make the wheels a little looser. I accepted, was back to the Me chaniker and the wheel screws wheel bolts he then screwed at my request on 110Nm. I know that I should read the operating instructions BEFORE the appointment, but yes… So I drove the car a total of about 20 km with the wheel scraper wheel bolts that were fixed at 140Nm. Did I maybe do a damage to the wheel because of this 20km drive ? I have to control the wheels in the next 50km a bit more. Thanks for help

Hello dear tire experts, I bought a new car in the summer, so far everything went well. The summer tires were unobtrusive. Now I changed to winter tires last week: Dunlop WinterSport 5 on Rial Astorga in 215/45R17 V. I ordered them as a complete bike on the internet and they came finished by mail. Then I had them plugged in at the tyre house of my trust -> Since then the cart moves to the right. I checked the following: steering wheel let go -> car drives to the right steering wheel minimally to the left -> car drives straight ahead tire pressure OK directional binding OK (tire correctly mounted) wheel screws retracted On any road, at any speed. I’ve never hit over curbs or anywhere else by car. What could that be? Where is the right starting point? VW, tyre salesman, tyre fitter? Thank you so much

Hello, I have always been riding tyres of size 175/70 R13 (on 5 1/2 J x 13) on my golf course (Golf III 1.6, Built 11/93, 55KW/75PS). Now I look at my license and notice that only 185/60 R14 are registered there! In the instruction manual there are even 3 possibilities: 175/70 R13 (on 5 1/2 J x 13), 185/60 R14 (on 6 J x 14) and 195/50 R15 (on 6 J x 15). What can I drive now? All those who are in the instruction manual or only those who are registered in the registration? Abe r why are there in the manual 3 possible sizes and only one in the appearance? However, the 175/70 R13 have always been on it and nobody has ever criticized something (TÜV e.g.). Maybe I should say that I bought the car about 3 years ago and got a new appearance at the re-registration (other circle). Maybe there were several sizes in the old appearance. Thanks already for your help! Greetings Michael

Hello, I was abroad for half a year, during which time my parents bought new winter tyres for their BMW. Since they had bought the car only used in the spring they did not know what size was necessary and simply trusted the local tyre dealer. When I came back and sometimes air pressure checked me that the tyre size is not listed at all. Also in the registration are only 17 inches 225/45. On the car, however, now Dunlop Winter Sport 3D 205/50 R17. Wanted to ask the BMW dealer now, maybe you can have the tyre size entered, but usually the manufacturers think what about the tyre size. 205 for n 2.5d also seems a little small. If it is really wrong size I will try to get right rims + tyres from the tyre dealer, at most pay off new price difference. Thanks in advance

Hello, in advance: I’m not a buyer of cheap tyres, currently driving with Goodyear and Vredestein, where there are certainly better ones. I like to follow the posts here, but hardly anyone asks for a “favorable” tire, already it is usually made to hell….why,..why,…and why do you want to get such noises. There are even posts that go over several sides. It’s true that the quality of a Michelin tire is far better e.g. like a barum or even a linglong Tires. An Audi is also better than a Kia in quality and safety, but not everyone can afford a premium car. There are many people or families who earn little money (e.g. loan workers) who fight for every cent and are dependent on a car to get to the job. They can’t afford a Conti tire. Maybe you should take that into account and help people more.

Moin, I used to change the tyres myself at my Fiat Punto and in the last years I had the tyres changed from my Kia Ceed and my Skoda Octavia in the workshop because of comfort and lack of space. This winter I changed the wheels again and as a layman I got a few questions or just a few points about which I would like to talk. 1. Which wheel hub paste makes sense. Better every time when changing or the al If this is still enough (when is enough?) on the wheel hub? 2. Question about the torque: I used the Octavia and the Kia 108nm (this is also the recommended maximum values). I took these values from the respective manual and adjusted them accordingly at the torque (UNITEC 20807). If I now tighten the screws until the cracking (i.e. the second crack immediately follows) I can’t find them in person. I know, stupid formulation and 108nm are just 108nm – finished. With the turntable I can create (certainly no Hercules) without much effort a quarter screw rotation. I tested this on each screw on three wheels. Are all now dressed again with 108nm. Basically the 108nm must be enough and if I then still tighten by hand I can leave the torque immediately in the tool box. Wants to address this and other M to listen to my thoughts on this matter. Greetings and all the best Michael

Was just with my roomster at the TÜV, now I have as a considerable lack wheels 1. axle left and right version inadmissible…had exchanged with my father at the front times, for any that we just had there. Pressing depths are actually different with ET 38 and 40. Now I have thought about whether I just put a complete new set of tires on it with new rims, especially since the tires are pretty much through. Now I’m a little unsure what kind of rims on it d I have an approval certificate, there is called as rim size 6Jx14 ET37. If I do this on it, I have to have a general type approval ABE, or can I choose this size freely under the rims? Can I possibly also take other rims? As rims are only mentioned, as tires are some in it, 7 different in different sizes… Would be really nice if one could give me a hint….thanks already…!

Hello, today, when I turned right on a curb, I took my right front wheel to the track. The curb is new there (before construction site) and much too high. Even the police who happened to be present said I was the 30th in just a month and they already informed the city. Anyway, I need a new tire, but do I need a new rim? The smaller one seems to be an old damage, because it is exactly opposite the big damage. What do you think? Thank you for your assessment.

Hi there. Ride a new Seat Leon TDI 2.0 with 184hp since the beginning of this week. Have Continental Sport Contact 5 with 225 / 18 40 on it. The tires are so loud.From a speed of about 60 k/mh the tires roar that is really Wahsinn. Much louder than winter tires really sucking. Does any of you have the same experiences ?