Category: Renault Twingo & Wind Forum

Hello, I bought a Twingo for my wife three weeks ago (Bj. 10/2000; 43 KW; 86TKM ). After a long drive I noticed some problems. On the one hand, the engine starts to jerk insanely when it is in the lower speed range (gas only slightly pressed). It feels like it jumps out of its suspension immediately. Then the engine runs in idle a bit, but does not run out. For a G-Kat car the exhaust gases also stink quite well and economical is the lean When I looked into the engine room a few days ago, I noticed that the plug was not attached to a sensor (see pictures). What does this sensor have for a function? When I connect the plug to the sensor, the motor runs round at first, but after a minute it turns up at idle (about 2000 revolutions) and goes out at load (then the indicator lights light up). Where could I find the error? Could it be this sensor? Many greetings Jeffrey

Hello I’m about to buy a Twingo as an everyday car. I don’t want to just buy a Twingo. That’s why I’m hoping for help from you. It’s going to be a Twingo from 2001, they’re not supposed to rust like that anymore. Which engine? Folding roof yes or no? What else is there to consider? What problems are there with the Twingo? Looking forward to numerous answers. Thank you in advance. Greeting Franz

I’ve been driving a lot with a Twingo Bj. 2004 with 60hp. How can I turn off the warning tone of the sound when I’m not strapped on ? Is there a trick ? And the blinker signal – is that also adjustable ? The continuous beep is really degenerate ! Thinking of Renault because, you don’t get it when you blink or don’t strap on ?! I really find this an imposition !

Hello I’m new here. I have already tried the search engine but found nothing suitable. I have a problem with a Twingo Bj 2001, 1.2l 16v. With the Twingo the immobiliser can sometimes not be deactivated. Now I was in a free workshop. There I was told I had to go to Renault and I need a new immobiliser that would cost about 1000€. Now my question I can not simply permanently deactivate the immobiliser? Or is the repair really so te uer? I find my 1000€ stuck in such an old car too much. Thanks already Steffen

Hi, everybody! I have a Twingo 16v, Bj2001, 76000km down! When I drove home from work today, I had the problem at the traffic lights when I was speeding up, that I at the same time had the feeling that someone would step on the brakes in a 1-second-stroke. That then pulled up for a while, but then was away again. I still went to Renault and left the car there to check through. I drive a lot of highway and don’t want to go there in the morning at 7 U So, now to my question: Do you have any idea what that could be? Would you like to adjust me to it quite a bit? I still have a guarantee, so I would also be interested in what falls into the guarantee and what is not (electronics stuff). Daaaanke already!

I have the twingo from my wife here. And I don’t know myself with automatics. And he also has to go to the Tüv.When I start slowly with gas, he strangles the engine. He drives on the gas with schmackes. And when I stand at the traffic light on N .. he suddenly goes out.(. What could it be. Thanks in advance! Bj 2002 178.000km

Hello to all Twingo friends. Mine is a bit worried. I hope you can give me a tip. I drive the Twingo from year 2001 as a winter car with many short distances (11 km). I regularly have to remove and clean the hose from the air filter to the throttle flap (every 3-4 weeks). I notice that the car starts badly. There is another hose connected to this hose from the engine ventilation or crankshaft housing ventilation. My questions would be: 1. Why is this now planned, after all, the supply and combustion of the oil residues via the throttle valve into the cylinders. Is this possibly due to the oil or the fuel type ? 2. Would an oil-catch tank be useful here if necessary ? Has anyone ever installed this?

Hi guys, I made my driver’s license last year and because my girlfriend is a good 2 hours away by public transport it’s time I got my own mobile kit. I have the opportunity to buy a first generation Twingo (from 2003) in black, folding roof and without air conditioning (but the warm air I can get rid of very quickly and on short distances a climate can hardly really heat up) from a friend. PS have and has run only 54Tkm. Still steel rims (winter), aluminium for the summer, TÜV new and should cost 3000€. My question is now whether the car is worth it or whether it is too expensive (insurance, maintenance, gasoline). By the way, I am a student and therefore do not have inexhaustible means. Would I be happy about an answer. Mfg Pasi

Hello I need 2 tips what my twingo has for “macking”. my free workshop can’t do it. Twingo Metropolis, 6/1999, 118,000 km, 60ps/44KW, EURO2 a) Engine noises – loud chatter and ring the loudest in the cold, when without load the speed is reduced. (so if you go from the gas) The whole is loudest around the approx. 3000-3500 turns. In the warm condition it gets smaller. Ringing disappears almost completely. the speed range where this occurs becomes smaller. it bl but louder motor noises. b) at certain temperature and humidity dependencies and after about 20km slow autobahn ride (a40 in the ruhrpott) the “left front wheel” starts to squeak. it is a mechanical and metallic squeak which behaves synchronously to the wheel speed. if I briefly tap the brake it is short-term away, if the steering is only minimally moving it is also short-term away. ?????? Brake pads are still ok – ca 5-6 covering – together with brake disc n changed 2 years ago. Every time I go to the workshop with it, I have the demonstration effect that nothing squeakes. ;-(( thanks in advance for your tips tom

Hello everybody! Good advice is expensive… so far about 1500 euros… almost as much as the yellow flashes is still worth. But I hang on my Twingo. History: In late summer 2008 both wheel bearings were changed (hobby screwdrivers), about 3 weeks later the dilemma began. When braking the steering wheel vibrates, it starts at about 70 kmh and almost stops at about 60kmh. Up to now, the following parts have been changed by skilled workshops and delighted car mechanics: brake discs including blocks (up to 3 m) wheel bearing left again. Hub left (since the hobby screwdriver had left his vice traces there). Carry bearing left, coupling rods on both sides. Tires including rims. Balancing, track measurement, axle measurement. After each repair it takes about 800km and it starts again within 2 days. We are by now quite helpless especially since I mean that carrying bearings and coupling rods were only damaged by the slaging. If anyone else has an idea… imm The next thing to do is to have the right wheel bearing and hub re-made. For the following reason: Hobby screwdriver (the one with the vice) has unfortunately installed roller bearings which according to the specialist workshop have played at the latest after a year and thus the hub scraps. On the left is already a “real” one. For further ideas I am very, very grateful!!! Thank you! LG Ute and the yellow sauce.