Category: Renault Twingo & Wind Forum

Hello Twingoians 🙂 I have a few questions about our newly bought Twingo and hope you can answer one or the other. It’s a Twingo model 2005 (so I think a C06 is a good one) with 75hp and manual transmission. At the following points most will ask why we bought it at all it’s built in 2005, has little kilometers, shack stitched with many extras, first hand, in a top (!) condition inside and outside and all that At a very lucrative price. Therefore, we have also reached this compromise. Now on the questions: 1.) if the airbag control light is constantly yellow, although the passenger airbag has been switched on/off with the key, that means that the driver airbag has a problem or can it be the passenger airbag? Is there only a common airbag light in the cockpit? How high could the damage be, so what costs would I have to expect if I were to use it for the Ren The Twingo has built a sports drive unit that I would like to exchange through a series suspension or similar. Even if the sporty looks great, we would like to prefer the ‘normal’ and therefore ‘softer and more comfortable’ variant. According to the vehicle license, a power tech suspension with the designation 200-510 is condensed, which corresponds to the red springs of the manufacturer, also called Hockenheim model ( It probably has 510mm VA+HA. It still says: wire through 11,5/9,25mm, IG=6,5/13,5 but I can’t do much with it. Well, could I sell this chassis somehow still used to your opinion, or exchange it for a standard chassis? What do you think? Unfortunately, I can’t assess and classify this price at all. If not, where could I look for a cheap series suspension with all the parts needed to carry out this conversion? 3.) At the moment the following tyres are mounted on this chassis: 195/45 R14 on 7Jx15H2 with RADT. T70425, ET35, in conjunction with SCC distance discs 10221, thickness=5mm. However, if I put the standard chassis on it, I would like to put normal tyres on it and not as low-section tyres as they currently are on it. They could be a bit wider than series, but I have no idea how it all looks like. Are certain tyre / rim combinations looking visually appealing? I don’t know if the distance discs have to go off or should stay on. 4.) I still got the old vehicle license, it says that the next HU/AU would be in spring 2014. Decommissioning/deregistration of the vehicle was towards autumn 2012. Will my registration office accept that so and take over the TÜV appointment simply or want the mandatory TÜV-AU expert reports ? Hope for the one or other helpful answer, thank me warmly in advance and wish everyone a fro It’s a weekend.

Hello, I’m usually active in the Mercedes forum here. Now my girlfriend wants to buy a small car with a budget of 5,000,-€. As extras are only a split foldable rear seat as well as an air conditioning required. The color etc. does not matter. Since we first looked for a VW Fox and was advised from all sides of it, we noticed the Twingo as quite nice small car. Among other things we found the following at mobile.de: LINK What does it matter b to pay attention to the Twingo and there is already a Clio from BJ. 2006 with max. 80.000km for the budget? Thank you for your help!!

Hello, I have been driving a Twingo Bauj.2000 60Ps since last summer and have just no plan, because the car has been standing in the workshop for a week, everything was tried, I have almost 400 euros less and the car still has the same problems. He does not jerk and starts immediately, but he does not arrive in the 5th course over 135 kmh and that even with effort!? The cat is not, when reading out with the measuring device no errors were shown. The engine oil was refilled, petrol filter, air filter, spark plugs, oil change, oil filter, new water pump, timing belt was replaced and correctly, brakes are ok, new wheel bearings in front, and another sensor replaced. What was not done are valves, cylinder head seal and carburetor… (The screwdriver said there was nothing, or the valves would devour extra money again and whether the problem is settled) Coupling is OK! Normally he has shorter spring legs in front and the sport rims.I have built in the normal springs for the winter tyres, but can’t imagine it could be because of it!? Should someone be able to help me or tell me where to go with it best without spending a fortune (which I don’t have) I would be really super grateful….

Hello and greeting from Windhagen, I have run a problem with a Twingo Bj 1999 ,58 Ps, 100,000 Km. The Twingo jumped easily after bridging with a Würth booster, on that the Twingo ran easily in the stand about 1/2 hours. I turned out the Twingo normal to get something out of the trunk. When I wanted to start the Twingo again did not do anything. If you put the key in the lock and the starter operates the starter does not turn, immobilizer works normally }Schl Üssel out }Lamp blinks}”Plips”}Lamp goes off , key in , turn }it does itself nix}Key in the other way into the lock }it does itself nix}with the reserve key the same game. What have we tried ?? error memory read }nix deposited , tester Gutmann mega Macs 42 Software stand 41 Impulsor flashes normal , Plip with the key Impulsor is deactivated , it does again nix put the key normally into the lock without deactivating WFS , lamp of WFS bli nkt fast , repeatedly press the pliper and then try to start } ‘Result >nix ignition on }Instruction on the starter bridged }Instruction turns vehicle does not start. new (nail new battery) installed }Result nix now my questions What can this be ?? Where should I look ?? Can this be on the transponder from the key, I usually exclude, since the key is recognized }or I think wrong. For your answers I thank you in advance

Hello, my Twingo is having trouble again (Bj 8/99, no ZV). Was yesterday on the Altmühlsee and in the evening on the way back in a lonely village after the view on the map, he suddenly did not jump any more. Thought of the battery, but a helpful resident said during the noises when starting it was an electronic problem. Then thought of the electronic immobilizer, because it did not go out and has flashed further when starting. When I already the breakdowns The guy had the saving idea that I should open up and make a start attempt. Suddenly it went again. Thank God! I tried to inform on the net about this problem. Most people, however, have in contrast to me ZV. My question: Do you think that problem can occur again and again and I should go to the workshop to see what is probably not quite cheap and easy to examine or can I use the Is there any experience with this defect or is there any knowledge? Is there any idea what you can do yourself if it occurs? Would it be very unpleasant if I stayed somewhere further away from home, perhaps even in the evening. I would like to have the immobilizer deactivated if possible, but on the Internet it says that it is not allowed (because of insurance). Actually something strange, because it is d Does anyone know anything about this? If I understand the I-information correctly, is the WFS not fully deactivable from phase 2 onwards?? Must have phase 2 (Bj. 8/99, first registration Jan. 2000)? Thank you!

Hi Community! I have a problem with my wife’s twingo. I have already tortured the search but the symptoms are different every time. It’s a C06 BJ. 99. He has run just under 80tkm and it’s a Twingomatic (i.e. automatic). Short description of the error: The car starts in the morning or when it’s cold is no problem. Even if it’s turned off again and again it’s no problem. Only occasionally (it feels more often) he jumps It’s a pleasure not to get away at the pump or where it’s extremely unpleasant. Then he orgs and orgs but it doesn’t happen. After a few minutes (a few minutes) you turn the key and it starts as if it had never been anything. I can almost rule out the known OT-Geber error because it doesn’t make the slightest noise in normal traffic, etc.. It never goes out or something like that. It also runs absolutely round. You can hear the petrol pump as soon as there is tension. So here too the error is rather unlikely. But what else could it be? Detonator switch? I’m baffled. Would be grateful for your help! LG Dennis

Hi @all! Could someone help me and post here which engine oil I need for my Renault Twingo 16V, Bj 2004? Can’t find my operating instructions! Thanks in advance! V50 hunters

Hello Have a problem my Twingo does not jump on ignition spark is at least on the 4 cylinder Have the candles cleaned nevertheless does not jump on I don’t know any more please for help car details Renault Twingo Year 1996 petroler 1.2 I think

Hello, bought me a second car Twingo. What should I say is good, but has already some flaws that I want to list here. What is this for a yellow warning light that occurs during the ride. It doesn’t glow now, had the engine switched off and then started again. I know that the first one should be read out, but this week I won’t have to come to the workshop next week because of the tester. But would like to know before I have written data about the Twingo in my signature. I would be happy if information came here. I have attached an image with the warning symbol. I have a picture with the warning symbol.

In my 1.2 C06 year 1999 a spark plug is black and oily. I think that’s why it sounds like a tractor when you’re standing and driving off. Sounds like 3.5 cylinders. What could that be? Are there any Twingo diseases. Ignition coil and candles already changed. Idle controls and throttle flap pots are also exchanged.