Category: Renault Twingo & Wind Forum

Hello, I recently had a 75hp Twingo 2004 with about 60tkm. Is that normal, that the engine sounds so kernely, that it starts to roar so loud from about speed 90 so that it gets uncomfortable? Highway driving is stress, I get headache. Or does this indicate a defect? Then I got a new clutch. Is that normal, that when starting up the engine, the engine dies off every second time, if I don’t give up quite a bit of gas? (at my clutch handling li egts really not, am not a beginner) And last not least, sporadically, the airbag lamp lights up. Is that a disease or can you say something? I have a contract workshop appointment next week and it would be nice if I could make them a little steam (especially the clutch).The Twingo is, however, a cheap car, but the last car with such a … Coupling I drove 20 years ago (was a Fiat Uno)… Thank you! Korbinian

Moin, the net is full of this problem. Now it has hit us too. The good Twingo has fresh Tüv, but doesn’t start and central locking doesn’t work either. We only had the key re-read and have it re-learned at Renault in the fall. The impulse encoder / reverber is also new. The Renault plants here in Hannover are not able to change anything at the present state. The master thinks the decoder box is broken and I should like to have a new + key + Fhgn But will that be the solution to the problem? I’m not sure. It’s the only Renault factory here and it doesn’t have a good reputation. On eBay is offered by the company “Autoschlüsselexperte” to build a new key or transmitter. This is supposed to cost 90€ in advance…… Used ECUs are also available with decoder box and key. But for 150€ without guarantee…. Well… I also read the possibility to cut two three cables at msg… Which would that be? because and what has to be done additionally? There has to be a way to get this good car to run… He has Tüv until May 2019 and only needed a new esd…. Is there maybe a company where you can send in the msg? Thanks already and sry if the Wfs threads are annoying lG

A call for help to all who are familiar with drive shafts, wheel bearings, etc.: I already noticed deep running noises at my Twingo C06 (year 94), especially at the front right – but nobody could tell me what it was all about until today. At that time, two professional mechanics (!) had said that the transmission was over – so I installed a new (used) (!) – then it was said that the wheel bearing at the front right was to blame – so also changed – But now the noise is still there and with it. Meanwhile it is so loud that when I drive it slowly becomes murky… It is a rather deep tube or howl that especially at 30-40 and 80-100 km/h is very loud, and especially loud at left curves, whereby it disappears almost completely with right curves (that’s why I think it would have to come from the right side). I guess now on the right drive shaft, but I have two questions: 1) How do I recognize if the drive shaft is over? The rubber cuff is OK, fat is also dr in! 2) Shouldn’t the sound of a defective drive shaft be more of a crack – especially (in my case) with strong lens curves? I had a defective drive shaft at another car and that sounded quite different… 3) What do I have to pay attention to when I buy a new drive shaft at the junkyard? How do I see if it’s still okay? Thank you for every useful hint!

Hello together, have a problem with our Twingo. I’ve already found some topics but somehow some topics are not dealt with further or there are other problems. Our Twingo year 4/1999 1.2 58 HP has the problem that the speedometer jumped to zero. After a little search in forums often came the white that in such cases the speedometer should be defective. Have bought a new one at Ebay, but the problem is still there. Now actually comes the funny part of the request…. You can put almost the clock afterwards. After about 5 minutes it shows no more speed and there are 0 km/h … If we park somewhere …. at the shopping or elsewhere, and then re board the speedometer goes again, but nacg about 5 minutes again the same problem ! Is there somehow a relay for what could possibly be defective ? How is the process of this data coming from the dealer ? go over the ECU ?? Are unfortunately a little desperate and hope on help. Lg

Hello, I bought a Twingo for my wife three weeks ago (Bj. 10/2000; 43 KW; 86TKM ). After a long drive I noticed some problems. On the one hand, the engine starts to jerk insanely when it is in the lower speed range (gas only slightly pressed). It feels like it jumps out of its suspension immediately. Then the engine runs in idle a bit, but does not run out. For a G-Kat car the exhaust gases also stink quite well and economical is the lean When I looked into the engine room a few days ago, I noticed that the plug was not attached to a sensor (see pictures). What does this sensor have for a function? When I connect the plug to the sensor, the motor runs round at first, but after a minute it turns up at idle (about 2000 revolutions) and goes out at load (then the indicator lights light up). Where could I find the error? Could it be this sensor? Many greetings Jeffrey

Hello I’m about to buy a Twingo as an everyday car. I don’t want to just buy a Twingo. That’s why I’m hoping for help from you. It’s going to be a Twingo from 2001, they’re not supposed to rust like that anymore. Which engine? Folding roof yes or no? What else is there to consider? What problems are there with the Twingo? Looking forward to numerous answers. Thank you in advance. Greeting Franz

I’ve been driving a lot with a Twingo Bj. 2004 with 60hp. How can I turn off the warning tone of the sound when I’m not strapped on ? Is there a trick ? And the blinker signal – is that also adjustable ? The continuous beep is really degenerate ! Thinking of Renault because, you don’t get it when you blink or don’t strap on ?! I really find this an imposition !

Hello I’m new here. I have already tried the search engine but found nothing suitable. I have a problem with a Twingo Bj 2001, 1.2l 16v. With the Twingo the immobiliser can sometimes not be deactivated. Now I was in a free workshop. There I was told I had to go to Renault and I need a new immobiliser that would cost about 1000€. Now my question I can not simply permanently deactivate the immobiliser? Or is the repair really so te uer? I find my 1000€ stuck in such an old car too much. Thanks already Steffen

Hi, everybody! I have a Twingo 16v, Bj2001, 76000km down! When I drove home from work today, I had the problem at the traffic lights when I was speeding up, that I at the same time had the feeling that someone would step on the brakes in a 1-second-stroke. That then pulled up for a while, but then was away again. I still went to Renault and left the car there to check through. I drive a lot of highway and don’t want to go there in the morning at 7 U So, now to my question: Do you have any idea what that could be? Would you like to adjust me to it quite a bit? I still have a guarantee, so I would also be interested in what falls into the guarantee and what is not (electronics stuff). Daaaanke already!

I have the twingo from my wife here. And I don’t know myself with automatics. And he also has to go to the Tüv.When I start slowly with gas, he strangles the engine. He drives on the gas with schmackes. And when I stand at the traffic light on N .. he suddenly goes out.(. What could it be. Thanks in advance! Bj 2002 178.000km