Category: Renault Twingo & Wind Forum

Hello, I mounted the winter tyres (195/45/16) on Saturday. I mounted the rear tyres forward so that I had the new tyres in the rear. After the start of the ride, the driving behaviour was totally spongy. When I was at home I controlled the tyre pressure, at the front were about 1.7-1.8 bar instead of as stated 2.3-2.5bar. So pumped up to 2.4 bar, all around. This morning in a 90 degree curve the ESP 3x jumped in, which had never happened before in this curve, especially not b After that it started again in 2 turns. After work it jumped right in the first turn, I decided to switch off the ESP, after that I had the feeling to drive like on eggs again, totally spongy. Where does that come from? Can it be that the tires have to be “taken in” for the front? It’s Contis Winter Contact TS 790 and the newer model Contis Winter Contact 8xx. Thanks for the help. Greeting Andy

Hello, I’m a novice driver and I bought a Renault Twingo built in 2001 (the one with glass sliding roof, I think Edition Metropolis). The car is in a good condition as far as the look is concerned, it also drives well. The previous owner, however, was himself a novice driver and gave it away because he has bought a larger car. Accordingly, there are hardly any repair documents etc. available (but only 1-2 years ago was a lot on the brakes, the front axle and the windscreen wiper My first question is, according to the on-board computer, the car has now nearly 109,000 kilometers on it, can it have been driving for a long time (12 years old) and so far (kilometer performance) without the timing belt has been changed before? The factory recommendation is to change the timing belt every 60,000 km or 5 years! The car cost only a little more than 1000 euros and a timing belt + water pump change would be of course not worth it. If someone in the workshop looks at it I could let him change right away, the expensive is the working time to disassemble all this, so easily you can’t get to these timing belts, be it just for visual control. I don’t want to put any money in there now, but I would be interested in whether I have to reckon with an engine damage due to an outdated timing belt or the thing still gets 1-2x over the TÜV…. t the filling level of engine oil and brake fluid in the tanks in the engine compartment exactly between MIN and MAX. Do you have to refill something soon or does it fit like this? The optimum is often between the extremes in the technology… Thank you for your advice! 🙂

Moin, our Twingo EZ 12/05 starts spinning in the warm seasons. It is about the airbag control light as soon as the warm months start so from April to Oct. or Nov. the lamp sporadically goes on and off again as if a wobble contact would exist. In the cold months this problem does not occur, TÜV is always in December and therefore we never had the problem at the TÜV xD !!! But of course it is not nice to drive around without working airbags therefore my Question where can the problem be found. I’ve read that it can be a grinding ring in the steering wheel then I think that the problem would persist permanently. A colleague of mine meant that it could be a wobble contact on a plug under the seat only where can I find this plug or wackler?? Other topic ..We want to sell the Twingo in two months he has now 120t Km down and has had a few accidents which however have never prevented to come over the TÜV. re such a realistic price ? Can I still get 700 euros for it 1.5 years TÜV he has still matured and 8 compartments

Hello, my friend has recently had a GROßES problem….. I’ll give you a short description: Now on the weekend her Twingo suddenly didn’t want to go back and the engine control light went on. This morning the lamp was off again, but the next time she started the reverse turn and wanted to drive back he went out and the MTK was on again. That’s as if she was choking off the car or the hand brake was still on. Have already read out the error memory l assen, 6 errors have been found. Drosselklappen-Sensor Lambdasonde after Kat Lambdasonde before Kat Primaer-Zündkreis Zyl. 2 + 3 or fuel pump relay Primaer-Zündkreis Zyl. 1 + 4 or fuel pump relay Probe heater after Kat It is a Twingo Bj. 99 1.2l with 58ps Hope it can help me one who in the workshop said that could be a cable that does not get contact while driving back, since the engine is moving in the other direction already before vie nd thanks

Hello municipality, am now new here and ask a question immediately. My girlfriend drives a 2001 Twingo 16V, engine: D4F-702 he has the following problem he simply goes out in the stand gas (without notice) but only if he is in the middle range of the temperature i.e.: if he is cold he runs without problems and if he has operating temperature then also only in the middle of these temperatures he only goes out in the stand gas. Have changed air filters and ignition coil. Possibly one of you has a Lösu ng. LG Daniel(Daniel was already forgiven so I’m in the forum Danier)

Hello dear forum, I have a very strange and urgent problem with my Twingo. Both radio keys have given up my mind, with both the vehicle can no longer be opened. That alone would not be the problem but without the radio unlock the immobilizer does not go out, so that I can not start the car. I was the first to think about empty batteries and at least changed them in one key (CR 2016 3V), but shortly afterwards it went away but then wa I don’t know what’s going on with the keys, at least that’s why I can’t move the car anymore!! Do you have a tip on how to start the car anyway or what can be done with the radio keys?? In the user manual there is nothing special about battery change except that you should pay attention to the poles. Renault gave me the helpful information you would need keys and car to find the error ……. just like if I didn’t have the engine t can start. Thank you for your posts Greeting Krontaler!

Hello, My brother bought a Twingo C06 Bj. 2002 with a 1.2 16V engine. On the transfer ride everything worked for approx. 200km normal. We got into a traffic jam and twice the engine simply went off. After we left the traffic jam again so after approx. 30 minutes we accelerated again, but the speedometer stopped at 0km/h and the KM indicator also didn’t count any more. We called a friend who then drove the 30Km until home. Ing the speedometer twice for about a minute. I have arrived at home first realistic 3 hours researched what could be the cause. Most had the problem with the speedometer. Good Tachogeber bought and tried to install. With the capped lay already in the hole where it comes in. We removed this piece of plastic and made the new one, test drive and neither Tacho nor Km counters moved. Now we have the question what it could be, because All fuses are safe, plugs are where they should be and cable breaks as far as you can see are not visible. The funny thing is that after the traffic jam at once it didn’t work anymore but 200 km in front of it perfectly. What else could it be? Besides, these works are like encoders etc. change with the 1.2 16V engine very cumbersome because you have so little space. Who has an idea please report as soon as possible! Thanks in advance MfG c06driver

Hello I think the topic has already been dealt with a hundred times. A few days ago I started my little twingo, which went without any problems, and had the feeling that it only ran on 3 cylinders. Funny smell spread and in the rear mirror a black cloud. I then turned off my little one immediately. After about 5 minutes I wanted to start it again, but nothing went. Starter runs but doesn’t start. Totally puzzled what’s going on. Have looked the car and pinned it down. I write the ignition coil and otgeber are new. Usual suspicious..:-)…fuel pump is healing, has been tested. wfs is also ok. Out normal. I just don’t know what to do. Thanks in advance.

Drive since mid November 2014 a new Twingo ,Luxe SCe 70. After 14 days recall action because of belt locks. OK no problem that can happen. But then it started. Fridays after Christmas I want to drive away, workshop light lights up, start the car again normal, drive about 500 meters gas goes away, can only drive about 20 – 30 km, workshop light again. Drive back home. Since it is already late, I do nothing. On Saturday morning, wants to go to my Renault car, call Renaulthotline, have Renault Plus warranty. I want a tow truck and of course a rental car, the car doesn’t want to move any more. Be asked first if I’m sure it’s not a marten bite, because then I have to pay car rental by myself. Although I describe my problems again, I will be reminded of the marten bite again. OK, tow truck ko After midnight, no rental car, car is brought to the dealer who unfortunately did not have open this Saturday. Weekend without car.Monday to the dealer, finally get a rental car, Tuesday call from workshop can pick up the car again. Supposedly a module was exchanged. At the end of January, car can not start, no reaction to the car no amature lighting absolutely nothing. After the 4 start attempt the car starts again as if nothing had been. On to the dealer ,Probl After about 15 minutes feedback from the mechanic he finds nothing, will repeatedly ask if I have kicked the clutch at the start. (Bin, female, 59 years old driving car with circuit for 40 years). Be treated as if I was senile, have not experienced such a thing in any car dealership yet. It is not considered at all that maybe there might be something about the electronics on the car. No, the old one is too stupid to start a car, says the Employees written on their foreheads, Today, drive to the shopping, get back a car doesn’t start, no mucks, but this time the amature lighting is on, after the 7 or 8 attempt, it starts again as if nothing had been. Oh, again, the windscreen wipers continue to run when the car is off and the key is off. If I don’t set it to 0 at the switch. I know that the wiper runs after 2-3 times, in the normal case, but today it didn’t go out at all. Only when I switched off the switch I’ve got a car that’s four months old and I can’t rely on it.

Hello to all professionals,Bastler need your help. So my little Twingo (Bj: 2005 170000km) gave up his mind a few days ago, so off to the workshop.Result: 3 and 4 cylinders no more compression.To further limit the error would have cost me a lot of money again.That before he goes on the scrap I can take it apart myself.Unbelievable what you have to screw everything apart to get to the valve cover seal grrh.naja ok. So, ZK,Wapu, all the V-belts,Clamping roller new and after best certain re-installed.Everything nicely cleaned degreased,which takes care that nothing is changed and just as before it was connected again.Motor carefully turned by hand times….everything good oil and water pure,battery connected and once turned without ignition cable,then with ,starts and……läft like a bag of nuts ;-( the only thing muchleic It’s not what it’s supposed to be that the connection of the petrol line has broken down.I’ve drilled up a bit, inserted a metal sleeve on the side (plastic warms at the suction bridge) and additionally sealed off the outside.Can’t imagine it’s because of that, so I’d be happy about your suggestions.Thank you very much in advance Greeting Matze.