Category: Renault Twingo & Wind Forum

Hello, I have the following problem. With me the ABS + handbrake light has been shining permanently for a long time. I have already pulled out all the plugs, cleaned and provided with contact spray. It has already been read out error memory. But this said that there is no contact between the motor control unit and the ABS control unit. I was then told that the ABS block is probably broken. The funny thing is that sometimes even if only very rarely both lights are off once and Mostly when the engine has been switched off afterwards. It is about a Twingo C06 BJ. 99 58hp. The fuses under the steering wheel are all OK and also the 30 ampere fuse in the engine compartment box. Would be very grateful for any help.

Hello together, I am currently thinking about buying a new Renault Twingo Dynamique SCe 70 as a new second car. Currently there is still the 5 year financing with 0% interest rate and 5 year guarantee. On the one hand the question if there is someone here who has recently ordered one and what to say about the delivery time? According to our dealer it is currently 12 weeks. How are your experiences? On the other hand the question which conditions are possible. Is there someone who recently ordered a vehicle? How were your terms? I also tried to get a day registration with the current campaign. The price of the vehicle then rose from 10.990 Euro to 12.200 Euro. What then almost the new car price is. Has someone already managed to get a day registration without extra costs with the action 5 years to Thank you for your answers. VG Haiberger

Hi I’ve had my Twingo I (16V, D4F, EZ 2001, 100,000km) for about 3 months. It runs a little rough in idle, very rarely it goes out at a traffic light even simply and first gear without / little gas is a rocking affair. Forward way: Is my first car, my screwdriver skills are still expandable. As a first measure I wanted to clean the OT-guber. So I removed the air filter box, however, there are still unruly cables/sleeves, that you can hardly use the screws ra n comes (see first picture). It would be fuzzy, I don’t want to think about installation… 1. Do I have to expand something else first? Should I take it out at the risk that I can’t get it in, or is it easier than it looks? 2. I also took pictures of the engine compartment. If you notice anything, please let me know. Thank you! Attachment: Images https://imgur.com/a/IAZ6a Additional videos of engine and exhaust during idlehttps://vid.me/k9Chttp s://vid.me/J5y

hi, twingo c06, bj 1996, 1,2l with 54 ps engine warm -> all top running round, good gas acceptance, starts immediately… just super. motor cold -> a drama in 5 acts ! he jumps to ́s not to die… – ignition plugs clean and dry, condition good – ignition cable okay – distributor and runner okay – petrol pressure and quantity checked – okay – petrol pump starts – okay – fuses all ok – OT-giver cleaned AND another purchased – runs with both not… – air filter okay – compression should be okay because when he is running he pulls super – igniting kunke is at the orgling on every igniting candle there but -> does not start. doesn’t even, no track. startpilot taken to help -> not a single muck. then made the following -> battery again fully charged and horned gelled and horned until the doctor comes -> probably 2-3 minutes long and then he comes. very ticky and slow like an old tractor, and then when he runs -> but then great. so what can that be now ? can di e ignition coil be defective so that a weak ignition spark comes ? this weak spark is then sufficient at warm start, but cold no longer… but my knowledge goes the dinger or just not. am grateful for every advice. mfg loomi

hello, I still have the try that when hitting the steering wheel comes a crunch from the footroom area so it would have to come out of the circle from the steering gear. nom I have matured down and looked and wobbled…..it is definitely only when I steer and sound as if you are pulling rubber or so long, crunching halt. I will ride the days on a lift and see under there sometimes because you see so bad something. but the steering has no game and it cracks there’s nothing wrong with it. track-rods are new and achsmanschette was washed and achsvermessung I had it turned on. do you have any advice what exactly that is?if maybe somewhere smear is missing and it crunches through the dryness so? thank you in advance

Hello when changing the tires on stage discovered that the Twingo 2 Facelift is leaking from my wife at the transmission. There oil runs out and that is below where the Simmerring is. First a friend told me it would be quickly repairable and then my father-in-law told me it was not so easy. What’s right now? I read that there is a repair kit but that I had seen for the first Twingo. Can one help me further. It’s the 1.2 engine greeting Torsten

Hello, have a problem with a Twingo 2. BJ 07 airbag lamp + service lights. Have read out the memory : Airbag driver circuit open. (ACTIV) tried to delete the error but it is directly back. I checked all contacts under the seat, everything is fine. Winding spring is also new. Error is still there. Does anyone have an idea?

Hello dear Twingo community, I finally found some time to tell you about my negative experience with our Twingo. Recently, our maintenance case was three times in a row because of the following problem in the contract workshop: Engine jerked off while switching down, in low speed range you drove like a driving student when driving. It went back and back, for outsiders it had to be a real fun In addition, the engine warning light flashed up, when driving and at ampelstop ́s. The consumption of average 7.5 L/100 (short-range vehicle ) km went up to 11.4 L/100 km. The Twingo did not start right away at the first attempt and when it then jumped it smelled extremely after gasoline. At the first workshop visit all ignition coils were switched. According to the workshop master, the Twingo was then tested without an error message. So the car was picked up and after a short time it was found that there was nothing to improve. During the second workshop visit, the cam wave sensor was additionally replaced by a new one.

Hello to everyone, I bought myself a Twingo 2003er, 58hp as a winter car 2 weeks ago. During the test drive he ran great, now I realize that he runs in idle and during the drive a bit unround and slightly stutters/huttles. Motor does not go out and it does not light up the engine control light. I have read here already more often about the ignition distributors and ignition cables, can this be because or do you think of anything else? Thank you in advance Greeting ZR786

Hello dear Renault driver, a few weeks ago I got a Twingo as a “kilometer eater”, Bj 2003 116,000km. Since the timing belt was already 9 years old I had the complete timing belt set with water pump and thermostat replaced precautionally in a free workshop last week (total 530€). Since then my engine makes, say, interesting noises (see video). In short: – I let the engine run without a belt -> Sound background unchanged – very strange: the noises occur only with a warm engine! At the cold start and the next few minutes there is nothing to hear! – Sounds come definitely down from the wedge belt side of the engine – there are no loose parts on and around the engine recognizable – the engine bearings look good – the engine runs round and with full power – the strap disc is screwed – during the ride there is nothing to be heard of the noises then it is only in the stand at idle speed – since about 500km driving, noise still remains unaltered.