Hello together, we have a Twingo 2002, are satisfied. Now our friend here offers the new one, 4990,- extra charge if we give the old one (if he will bring 2500,-). Well, we will see. Keyword: Renault environmental premium… What can you say about – the 1.2er eco with 75hp, how does it work? Much better than the 58hp? – is the new more comfortable than the old one? – weak points – can we continue to use the current 155/65/14 winter tires? We will once a day Pro and can test extensively and then probably answer almost all the questions yourself. Nevertheless: what do you like / not good. Thanks for every info
Category: Renault Twingo & Wind Forum
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Second car, hard decision…….what kind of car?
I am looking for a second car, I have already made many thoughts. The car is mainly used in urban traffic, but should come on the highway and highway reasonable, I overtake my safe or thread on the highway. 1. Thought , smart rejected because , sensitive technology, from purchase price / performance ratio too expensive and needs for such a small gasoline too much. 2. Thought , Corsa -proportioned , because 60 hp tricylinders to slip, 75 Ps hardly to beko 3rd thought Twingo – we once had, my ex after separation still runs today. Insurance cheap son doesn’t want to be so right. My idea: Built 2003- 04, 75 HP 3- 4000 € max 80 T KM ran. Many have a folding roof, how are there the experiences that are often leaking? How do the 75 HP engines run? Acceleration,End speed, realistic consumption, durability in general. I hope that now many answers come together. I would like to thank the Commissioner for his excellent report, and I would like to thank him very much for the work he has done on this subject.
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Twingo C06, engine C3G, Bj 93, engine does not start
Hello, who can give tip. Twingo C06, Motor C3G, Bj 93,Motor does not jump on While driving engine became louder and then steam came out of the engine compartment. Visual test showed that coolant came out of the balance tank (cap) and coolant behind the V-belt disc of the water pump ejected from two openings. At the drive belt of the water pump teeth had gone off. Probably due to lack of water pumps drive the engine was too hot. Further test resulted: Starter spins, crankshaft and camshaft turn, valves move. Apparently no head sealing defect, because oil is fine. Petrol pump brings gasoline into the carburetor. OT dot encoder has the correct ohm value and ignition works. Vehicle has no WFS and no crash switch. fuses and two relays OK. What does it look like, no gasoline is injected into the carburetor despite fuel supply? Candles are relatively dry after starting attempts.
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Need to change the timing belt of the water pump
Hello TWINGO owners of older year of construction (of TWINGO of course :-))) My girlfriend has just to cover repair costs of about 1500 euros, because with her about 5 years old TWINGO was not changed during the last inspection of the timing belts. Renault prescribes this maintenance at more than 5 years or 90 000 km, which she has not yet done on it, therefore it was not done. She drove the highway and suddenly he did not pull any more. She let him roll out, and then tried of course meh This is not to be said at all in this case they told her afterwards in the workshop. Because I drive an even older TWINGO, she called me to warn me. I remembered darkly that my workshop at Tüv and ASU when he was 5 years old asked if they should make a new belt on the water pump, that is due soon. Has cost with new water pump and belt and cooling liquid also 466 Euro, I looked now – abe r better than staying down and then still see above. So tip for people who think maintenance is not so important, if something breaks you can still have it done: ( I am such a really ) change timing belts after 5 years, even if the kilometers are not on it yet.
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Does anyone have tips on my Twingo?
Hello, I have a Renault Twingo Bj 2000 from 3rd hand since 2006. Now this car has already made me angry for the 4th time in a short time. He suddenly no longer accepts gas at the running engine in the stand. This happens e.g. at a red traffic light. He no longer accepts the gas and goes out even after a short time. This happens however always from today to tomorrow. So a day before e.g. he drives without problems and also the whole day later until suddenly this point comes. It is t also not every day, that last time is about half a year ago. I then have real difficulties to get it from the place, because it always occurs at traffic lights or intersections. Sometimes it works that it then drives again a short piece, but then you notice then also that no gas is taken and then I have to kick it the popo properly to the small one. If then you turn on the engine again, it sounds a while quite normal. Then it comes to you as if the engine was starting from This will take 5 – 10 minutes. When it goes out, it will jump straight back on again, but moving from the place is no longer possible. It also comes before it runs normal again the next day without any problems. Repairs were made as follows: On the first to the third time, the error was stored in the electronics that the suction pressure blower (or as this plug is called) is defective. in the first time deleted and the plug cleaned. On the second time it was renewed and on the third time the error was deleted because it was still in the memory. My workshop (master workshop with a good reputation in Essen) already said the third time when it happened again you could only replace everything and wait for what was broken. So they don’t know exactly what it is every time. I mean that the plug is really new because it can’t lie there. I’m really desperate, because I a I have a sports exhaust from Novus on the small one, could that be a problem too? Unfortunately, I can’t remember if I already had it when the mistake occurred the first time. The exhaust is taken by TÜV and also for this vehicle. Please help me and give me tips what it might be. Just recently spent so much money on new TÜV/HU and new winter tires. If still infos of need are no problem. LG Steffi
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Renault Twingo Bauj. 99 – no electricity
Hi guys. I’ve been struggling through some forums now, but somehow the error descriptions aren’t the same as with me. Already about 6 months my little problem has started. It doesn’t start on its own. I’m in possession of a starter battery that is connected as when bridged, only that I don’t need a second vehicle for that. Really useful the part. Anyway, when I connect this, the Twingo starts without any problems. Until 2 months ago it was even like this, which he also sprung directly after a medium parking time (depending on how long I drove) without starting assistance. Now he still starts without problems with the starting aid, but as soon as I switch off the engine and wait a few minutes, I don’t even get enough power to deactivate the ZV. My suspicion is the alternator. In the net I also find test possibilities like voltage measurement or even with running motor the minus cable, whereby the latter probably not should be made because of any voltage thing!? Now I have a rather strong system in the car, which could possibly lead to the inadvertently further use of power when the engine is off. I’ve already heard of the so-called creep current, but are there tips to find such sources, except to disconnect parts and wait a day? Otherwise I would like to know if there are other ways to find out what my Twingo lacks bz what my problem is for you, would be grateful for all the help.
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Twingo timing belt exchange – price, okay?
Our Twingo will be 5 years old this year in November. So the timing belt has to be changed (or am I wrongly informed? 90 tkm or 5 years old, right?). I already got an offer from a free workshop today. The water pump is also exchanged directly. Calculation: working time 158,40 EUR timing belt set 96,40 EUR water pump 78,00 EUR rib belt 9,60 EUR cooler frost protection 8,32 EUR fuel filter 20,50 EUR fairytale tax 70,53 EUR Total: 441,75 EUR Is the price All right? What do you pay so much at Renault?
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Twingo goes out and takes bad gas
Hello together, my Twingo Bj. 98 got a little angry this morning. He jumped on and when he came out in the low speed range again. I restarted him and again the same problem. Then I gave a little bit more gas at the start again, but he didn’t take the gas properly. He stuttered, but when he reached a higher speed, he took the gas better. When I took the gas away, he went out again. Then I passed through our zone 30 more times. can it be because yesterday it rained with us all day and all night that something got too wet? When I arrived at work (after about 45 km, of which 35 km highway) he ran again without any problems, stayed at the traffic lights and took the gas back to normal. Does anyone know what it might be? Gruss Sannesu
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Renault Twingo C06 2001 – sounds almost like tractor
Hello dear community, I once looked for a topic like this, but I found none. I have a problem with my Twingo. Bj 2001 C06 has about 180000 on the clock and is the 1.2 liter machine with 58 hp. I supplied the good directly after purchase with fresh oil and filter and it ran impeccable. Then after half a year he started to run all of a sudden and was standing just ahead and jerking very much. Gas was also hardly possible due to air With Ach and Krach only 80 km/h. I then looked with an OBD plug once, whether errors are displayed. Missing. No error. However, with current measurement catalyst incomplete and o2 sensor incomplete. So I thought about the lambda probe, which I also changed directly. Unfortunately, wrong indication. It ran better, but it still jerks very much and the leis So I started to change everything at the ignition system. Spark plugs, ignition coil, ignition cable. No improvement. Then a friend recommended me to change the crankshaft sensor. Also I changed it. No change. A buffer comes out of the exhaust by the way. So irregularly and the engine sounds like there is a valve leaking somewhere. So I definitely have no idea what it might be. Does any of you have any idea? Thank you in advance and many greetings
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heavy clutch – what about you?
Hello, it’s about a 1.2 with 75hp and 60 TKM. The clutch is quite difficult and comes relatively late. It is difficult to dose, but does not slip, but grabs clean. I wanted to find out by google if this is normal with this vehicle. There are some similar reports, but also those with which this should not be so. So I could now switch on suspicion clutch rope and/or clutch and see if it gets better – this procedure appears mi r but not very attractive. Perhaps you could tell me here what it is like with your Twingo coupling.