Category: Renault Twingo & Wind Forum

Hello dear forum, I have a very strange and urgent problem with my Twingo. Both radio keys have given up my mind, with both the vehicle can no longer be opened. That alone would not be the problem but without the radio unlock the immobilizer does not go out, so that I can not start the car. I was the first to think about empty batteries and at least changed them in one key (CR 2016 3V), but shortly afterwards it went away but then wa I don’t know what’s going on with the keys, at least that’s why I can’t move the car anymore!! Do you have a tip on how to start the car anyway or what can be done with the radio keys?? In the user manual there is nothing special about battery change except that you should pay attention to the poles. Renault gave me the helpful information you would need keys and car to find the error ……. just like if I didn’t have the engine t can start. Thank you for your posts Greeting Krontaler!

Hello, My brother bought a Twingo C06 Bj. 2002 with a 1.2 16V engine. On the transfer ride everything worked for approx. 200km normal. We got into a traffic jam and twice the engine simply went off. After we left the traffic jam again so after approx. 30 minutes we accelerated again, but the speedometer stopped at 0km/h and the KM indicator also didn’t count any more. We called a friend who then drove the 30Km until home. Ing the speedometer twice for about a minute. I have arrived at home first realistic 3 hours researched what could be the cause. Most had the problem with the speedometer. Good Tachogeber bought and tried to install. With the capped lay already in the hole where it comes in. We removed this piece of plastic and made the new one, test drive and neither Tacho nor Km counters moved. Now we have the question what it could be, because All fuses are safe, plugs are where they should be and cable breaks as far as you can see are not visible. The funny thing is that after the traffic jam at once it didn’t work anymore but 200 km in front of it perfectly. What else could it be? Besides, these works are like encoders etc. change with the 1.2 16V engine very cumbersome because you have so little space. Who has an idea please report as soon as possible! Thanks in advance MfG c06driver

Hello I think the topic has already been dealt with a hundred times. A few days ago I started my little twingo, which went without any problems, and had the feeling that it only ran on 3 cylinders. Funny smell spread and in the rear mirror a black cloud. I then turned off my little one immediately. After about 5 minutes I wanted to start it again, but nothing went. Starter runs but doesn’t start. Totally puzzled what’s going on. Have looked the car and pinned it down. I write the ignition coil and otgeber are new. Usual suspicious..:-)…fuel pump is healing, has been tested. wfs is also ok. Out normal. I just don’t know what to do. Thanks in advance.

Drive since mid November 2014 a new Twingo ,Luxe SCe 70. After 14 days recall action because of belt locks. OK no problem that can happen. But then it started. Fridays after Christmas I want to drive away, workshop light lights up, start the car again normal, drive about 500 meters gas goes away, can only drive about 20 – 30 km, workshop light again. Drive back home. Since it is already late, I do nothing. On Saturday morning, wants to go to my Renault car, call Renaulthotline, have Renault Plus warranty. I want a tow truck and of course a rental car, the car doesn’t want to move any more. Be asked first if I’m sure it’s not a marten bite, because then I have to pay car rental by myself. Although I describe my problems again, I will be reminded of the marten bite again. OK, tow truck ko After midnight, no rental car, car is brought to the dealer who unfortunately did not have open this Saturday. Weekend without car.Monday to the dealer, finally get a rental car, Tuesday call from workshop can pick up the car again. Supposedly a module was exchanged. At the end of January, car can not start, no reaction to the car no amature lighting absolutely nothing. After the 4 start attempt the car starts again as if nothing had been. On to the dealer ,Probl After about 15 minutes feedback from the mechanic he finds nothing, will repeatedly ask if I have kicked the clutch at the start. (Bin, female, 59 years old driving car with circuit for 40 years). Be treated as if I was senile, have not experienced such a thing in any car dealership yet. It is not considered at all that maybe there might be something about the electronics on the car. No, the old one is too stupid to start a car, says the Employees written on their foreheads, Today, drive to the shopping, get back a car doesn’t start, no mucks, but this time the amature lighting is on, after the 7 or 8 attempt, it starts again as if nothing had been. Oh, again, the windscreen wipers continue to run when the car is off and the key is off. If I don’t set it to 0 at the switch. I know that the wiper runs after 2-3 times, in the normal case, but today it didn’t go out at all. Only when I switched off the switch I’ve got a car that’s four months old and I can’t rely on it.

Hello to all professionals,Bastler need your help. So my little Twingo (Bj: 2005 170000km) gave up his mind a few days ago, so off to the workshop.Result: 3 and 4 cylinders no more compression.To further limit the error would have cost me a lot of money again.That before he goes on the scrap I can take it apart myself.Unbelievable what you have to screw everything apart to get to the valve cover seal grrh.naja ok. So, ZK,Wapu, all the V-belts,Clamping roller new and after best certain re-installed.Everything nicely cleaned degreased,which takes care that nothing is changed and just as before it was connected again.Motor carefully turned by hand times….everything good oil and water pure,battery connected and once turned without ignition cable,then with ,starts and……läft like a bag of nuts ;-( the only thing muchleic It’s not what it’s supposed to be that the connection of the petrol line has broken down.I’ve drilled up a bit, inserted a metal sleeve on the side (plastic warms at the suction bridge) and additionally sealed off the outside.Can’t imagine it’s because of that, so I’d be happy about your suggestions.Thank you very much in advance Greeting Matze.

Hello, I have the following problem. With me the ABS + handbrake light has been shining permanently for a long time. I have already pulled out all the plugs, cleaned and provided with contact spray. It has already been read out error memory. But this said that there is no contact between the motor control unit and the ABS control unit. I was then told that the ABS block is probably broken. The funny thing is that sometimes even if only very rarely both lights are off once and Mostly when the engine has been switched off afterwards. It is about a Twingo C06 BJ. 99 58hp. The fuses under the steering wheel are all OK and also the 30 ampere fuse in the engine compartment box. Would be very grateful for any help.

Hello together, I am currently thinking about buying a new Renault Twingo Dynamique SCe 70 as a new second car. Currently there is still the 5 year financing with 0% interest rate and 5 year guarantee. On the one hand the question if there is someone here who has recently ordered one and what to say about the delivery time? According to our dealer it is currently 12 weeks. How are your experiences? On the other hand the question which conditions are possible. Is there someone who recently ordered a vehicle? How were your terms? I also tried to get a day registration with the current campaign. The price of the vehicle then rose from 10.990 Euro to 12.200 Euro. What then almost the new car price is. Has someone already managed to get a day registration without extra costs with the action 5 years to Thank you for your answers. VG Haiberger

Hi I’ve had my Twingo I (16V, D4F, EZ 2001, 100,000km) for about 3 months. It runs a little rough in idle, very rarely it goes out at a traffic light even simply and first gear without / little gas is a rocking affair. Forward way: Is my first car, my screwdriver skills are still expandable. As a first measure I wanted to clean the OT-guber. So I removed the air filter box, however, there are still unruly cables/sleeves, that you can hardly use the screws ra n comes (see first picture). It would be fuzzy, I don’t want to think about installation… 1. Do I have to expand something else first? Should I take it out at the risk that I can’t get it in, or is it easier than it looks? 2. I also took pictures of the engine compartment. If you notice anything, please let me know. Thank you! Attachment: Images https://imgur.com/a/IAZ6a Additional videos of engine and exhaust during idlehttps://vid.me/k9Chttp s://vid.me/J5y

hi, twingo c06, bj 1996, 1,2l with 54 ps engine warm -> all top running round, good gas acceptance, starts immediately… just super. motor cold -> a drama in 5 acts ! he jumps to ́s not to die… – ignition plugs clean and dry, condition good – ignition cable okay – distributor and runner okay – petrol pressure and quantity checked – okay – petrol pump starts – okay – fuses all ok – OT-giver cleaned AND another purchased – runs with both not… – air filter okay – compression should be okay because when he is running he pulls super – igniting kunke is at the orgling on every igniting candle there but -> does not start. doesn’t even, no track. startpilot taken to help -> not a single muck. then made the following -> battery again fully charged and horned gelled and horned until the doctor comes -> probably 2-3 minutes long and then he comes. very ticky and slow like an old tractor, and then when he runs -> but then great. so what can that be now ? can di e ignition coil be defective so that a weak ignition spark comes ? this weak spark is then sufficient at warm start, but cold no longer… but my knowledge goes the dinger or just not. am grateful for every advice. mfg loomi

hello, I still have the try that when hitting the steering wheel comes a crunch from the footroom area so it would have to come out of the circle from the steering gear. nom I have matured down and looked and wobbled…..it is definitely only when I steer and sound as if you are pulling rubber or so long, crunching halt. I will ride the days on a lift and see under there sometimes because you see so bad something. but the steering has no game and it cracks there’s nothing wrong with it. track-rods are new and achsmanschette was washed and achsvermessung I had it turned on. do you have any advice what exactly that is?if maybe somewhere smear is missing and it crunches through the dryness so? thank you in advance