Category: Renault Twingo & Wind Forum

Hi guys, I’m not new here, but my old Twingo 1.2 C06 ECON with 55hp, has never caused any problems. Until yesterday evening I caught a real pothole on the way home, not seen in heavy rain. 2 km later the car doesn’t pull right anymore, I have to go from the 5th to the 4th gear. That gets worse and worse within 10 minutes. The engine control light goes on again and again. I just pushed into the yard entrance in the first gear. Cable is loose. Today, look after and almost disassemble the whole car. All plugs in the engine compartment, plug to the control unit, fuses and relay candle cable tested and exchanged for new ( so something has been done in the drawer ) ignition coil, contact threads and poles cleaned. Battery poles tested and also a few minutes stuck off. Throttle valve tested, but is indeed over rope pull, mechanical. Cables and connectors on the injection strip. ung, also the connector (is probably the line from the tank) right solved, fuel comes out. On the left is such a solenoid valve ? also removed, but I don’t know the function. Is controlled by the cable harness, which goes directly into the ignition coil with a cable of mass somehow and a vacuum line goes in. Lambda probe unscrewed and cables checked. But is clean. Tank is half full car starts immediately, but runs like on 2 cylinders. But you can give gas normally. But now the engine control light no longer goes to Anbei a picture of the engine compartment. Video of the running engine likes to PN or email Does anyone still have a plausible idea ???!! Thanks for feedback and tips greetings

Hello everyone, the driver’s license is made and now it’s supposed to be your own car. The thought is as cheaply mobile as possible. Both with purchase and maintenance. The first thought was a Twingo, because I have heard good things here and there and that you can still see them on the road must have reasons. The problem is that my wife has problems with this poorly feathered chassis (we have already driven a lot twingo), nausea etc. The Clio 3 of my father you like, but he has already had a lot of fun at just 70,000km. I don’t know so well and have some questions: Is it worth spending more and, for example, buying something like an older A3 or golf or are these cars not so much better than a Renault? Are there cars where spare parts are much cheaper than others? I thank you for every answer. Don’t hold back with detailed answers, I like to learn about it. Greetings Aaron

Hello people, come from the Mercedes Forum of so please do not stone immediately. The Twingo of my younger sister causes problems. The heating just does not get warm even after 30 minutes drive. The blower runs on all stages however no heat. Have looked in the balance tank, the content looks like “carrot juice”. I guess the heat exchanger is rusted and therefore dense. Can someone support this thesis or maybe has a different tip?How difficult is it? the change?Have changed everything on the car, springs, brakes, Lima, cooler, OT-Geber…. But where is the heat exchanger sitting? Thanks for the answers.

Hello, I have a relatively “old” suffering at my Twingo. When driving straight ahead it happens again and again that from the direction of the tires comes a very loud quit (very high tone, mainly at speeds from 70 km?!). It did not occur for some time and this summer it was reinforced again. Since I had to buy new all-year tyres this year before the winter, I also addressed this problem immediately. The suspicion was expressed that the wheel bearings were defective and that there were I think it was also said that there was only a double pack. After the repair, the squeaking occurred again, unfortunately, and now also mainly during the impact. A friend looked at the car on the lifting platform and asked first of all, if I was informed, that the left drive shaft cuff is completely rubble and one could have replaced it immediately. It was also astonished that the wheel bearings were replaced in the event of irregular noises, which would normally cause “grumble” or grinding noises in the event of defects. It would rather type on contact of the brake pads or any metal parts with the brake cheeks. Now my questions: How can you check whether the wheel bearings were actually replaced? How much does a wheel bearing exchange cost at the Twingo? Is it necessary to replace both wheel bearings after a tyre change (on the existing rims) or a wheel bearing change to carry out an axle measurement? Do I not usually get a measurement report afterwards? I know a lot of questions, but I have a funny feeling! Just write me what you think of the matter and how I best proceed. Thank you in advance and many greetings Summerbreeze

Hello all! I will need a “cheap” car in the near future in order to tear down 35,000 km in the year. The car must not be expensive in the purchase and must be relatively economical at a speed of approx. 130 km/h. The journey to work consists of approximately 98% relatively unexploited highway. Had thought of an old twingo (58 hp)… Is there experience in this speed range? Are there typical weak points to which you pay attention when buying s Oll? When exactly did the Facelift arrive? Is it recommended to buy one after Facelift? Thank you for your help!!!

hej alle Seite, der twingo meinerfrau, 1.2-16v initiale, hat so far about 149,000 km sein 01.03 gesult. previous reperatures : spring-leg domed bearings right in ́05, 2X climate hoses in ́07, tapogeber, control unit (invitation/throttle flap) in ́08. the car will be moved in 2006 by approx. 800-1000 km/wo. (50%/50% city/bab). however, the reperatures as seen from the above mentioned data are gradually increasing and will be especially expensive. next is a wheel bearing to change. o he has been about km 130,000 from before about 0.5l/ 20,000 km now abruptly about 1l/5000 km oil consumption. it seems to soon be a vehicle change. what does it look like with your twingos ? what is your billance ? lg Rodatina

Good evening, I now have my driver’s license since February and now I have to get my own car, since I start my training in October and have to commute there within a radius of about 50km. My requirements for the car would be: -reliability -safety -price up to a maximum of 3000€ -on the motorway the car should also be able to drive reasonably pleasantly (and fear-free). -Dental belts and WaPu should have changed for the second time if possible and the car should be so In my price segment only the Clio, Twingo, Polo and Arosa were built after 2000/2001 (where the facelift was at least with the Renaults). Which car would you advise me on and what should be paid special attention to when buying? (So where are known weak points like for example with the Twingo the brakes) To which motorization would you advise me at 50-100km highway every day? and last:Which car is in the insurance a m Cheapest? Greetings, Marco

Hello, I’ve been 3 times with Renault now, but they don’t do more than delete mistakes either. My Twingo BJ 2004 1.2 16V always goes out for 2 weeks when I stand still, mostly only when you’ve been driving in a while. Then the engine sign and the electronic lamp lights up and then it has the Macke permanently when stopping or very slow. The dealer, where I bought it, says it can be anything and I should drive until it occurs permanently (??). after Motzerei on my part, that this is probably not his seriousness the suction tube pressure sensor (hope that means so) recouped. After that it was ok a week and now it started again. Was then forced at another Renault dealer next to my job and he said, he taps on throttle valve housing, because that probably occurs very often at the Twingo. There would cost 500 Euro ins.! Nun I have a car guarantee, that would be covered, but must ask my dealer again, because The car guarantee for used cars is dealer-related. I’m afraid now that they say, noööö, we don’t make the throttle valve housing new on suspicion, could also be the wire harness (that could be because it could be. My guarantee actually expires on 3.7.09… Well, now I wanted to ask, how sure is that, that it is the throttle valve housing???

Hello, my wife is driving a Twingo 1.2 16V BJ 2003. For some time now the exhaust gas monitoring lights up. I had the error read out once in a free workshop and there the flaw could only be roughly narrowed. Suction pipe seal defective. I had the error deleted and wanted to see if the lamp lights up again. After about 2 weeks also the exhaust gas monitoring again lit up. In addition, however, the Twingo now sometimes also goes out and it lights up then additionally the L square and a serrated line in it. It goes out again when you give gas and the car runs out again. Now after Renault and error read out. There they told me the throttle valve housing had to be changed. I am a bit unsure now, because with the throttle valve protector does not light up the exhaust control or yet? I have read once that the Twingo has problems with the throttle valve housing and if it cleans it would be enough then often. Is anyone confirming that? See you then Andreas

Hello everybody, I’ve been a proud owner of a Twingo 2 GT for about half a year (not quite) and, honestly, a bit disappointed about the quality of the workmanship: – on wet roads, there are quite loud noises from the rear axle(?) or rear wheel boxes(?) that – according to the workshop – are due to insufficient insulation in this area and are supposedly not to be fixed; someone knows this problem here and ideally knows a Lösu after all. ng, how can this at least be improved? – the right door panel crackles on slightly worse roads; also known here – problem? possible solution suggestions? – whether the standard built-in air conditioning system is switched on or not, one actually only recognizes by the function lamp, really cold air does not come out in my opinion and even with foggy windows I can see no effect if the thing is supposedly running; how are your experiences with it. .? I’m going to have Pit-Stopn (free) function check next week and I’m curious to see what comes out of it.. thank you and greeting, Mike