Category: Renault Twingo & Wind Forum

Hello dear Twingo experts & lovers, I have been the happy owner of a used Renault Twingo 1.2 Liberty, built in 03/1999, type C06, 128 000 km, 43 kW (58 hp) (I bought the car from a used car dealer without warranty.) Unfortunately, my Twingo has been losing oil for about a week. Since no oil pool was visible, but the oil lamp was constantly flashing and the oil level sank rapidly again and again, no matter how much oil I poured, I went to the workshop. The only way to save the car would be to install the engine + repair the broken parts or a new engine. Cost point at least 800 €. Since this is unfortunately already more than half of the purchase price, but I would like to keep my car absolutely, I wanted to ask if you could have any experience with this product. blem have and know what the problem with the mysterious oil loss is? If the engine really should be replaced, do you have an idea where I can get a used but working engine for my Twingo? And maybe also if there is a cheaper installation and expansion option than the above mentioned? I would really be very happy about a feedback because I’m pretty desperate right now and I really want to save my beloved Twingo! Momenta I can still drive it, but I have to measure the oil level every 2 days and drop oil, which unfortunately is not a permanent solution with the oil prices 🙁 Thank you already in advance for your help!!! Best regards from Cologne, Nike Z.

Hello, for some time now, the Twingo has been worrying me. First, when I refueled (tank lock turned) the key broke down into all parts, so that I could only start the car with difficulty. (key fixed temporarily with adhesive tape, so that the immobilizer was not activated) – but then only driven with the key beard. At the first attempt only with beard the engine did not jump on. All warning lamps lit. Now I drive with the spare key. Battery in the hatch sel is ok. So, now it happens occasionally that the car always starts and the engine also starts, but, if I then give gas, it is immediately off. It is usually then that the engine was always warm, if this occurs – but not always – and certainly not, if I want to provoke it. Have looked at all spark plug plugs. One was probably not quite properly plugged in- possible that it was only loose from the feeling. But that is now fixed and the problem is If I stand in front of the engine and give gas by hand, a slight noise from the air intake – but can’t say it’s abnormal – since I never tested something like that before. I can’t see a hole or something like that. It’s not loud either. Now I wonder why it runs out at once. Can that have anything to do with the key or what else would be possible? The car is from 2001 with 43 KW and has 45000 Km down (winter car) When it runs m you don’t get anything from a problem. thank you for tips

hi, I have n 1995 ́er, 40KW, 1,2 L twingo as a winter car. tuv still until 03/2013. ran before in the family and the clutch was renewed in 2012. engine runs great, jumps ( thanks to new OT encoder) again great. transmission switches very well. but: paint condition in short: terrible. everywhere scratcher. beautiful bump in the koti left hood goes after rempler only with nem screwdriver – closed slightly bent. left headlight has to be replaced – but halting is broken therefore not more adjustable. long talk in short: optically an ab**** box, but from my experience one probably brings about 200-300 euro through the tuv. (lights, possibly what about the brakes in front and the chassis parts) I already screw a lot myself but the question is: is it worth the ? 300 parts + 80 tuv -> then I would have to get a minimum of 400 better 500 for the box. pays someone ? make, throw away or possibly slaughter so motor and gearbox ? mfg loomi

Hello, I have had my Twingo year 2000 , 60hp C06 now over a week in the workshop and without trouble and a lot of money (500 Euro) the car now at least as I brought it back. The actual problem has not been found or fixed until today, because it still does not move properly at the final speed. Here I fluctuate between 120-139 Kmh and this even on a straight track without headwind with long start and give some feeling at the gas… What was so far a lles made: spark plugs changed air , oil and petrol filter renewed water pump , timing belts ,clamp roller valves Discontinued New wheel bearings front 2 built but functional joint shafts front tap sensor 2 times oil change engine cleaned in the range of valves because heavily muddy also further sensors , it runs quietly, does not race anymore and jumps immediately! The compression should be sufficiently good, however I had a white oil cover which is yes for humidity s pricht… I can’t and don’t want to put so much money into the car anymore and just want to know why he doesn’t move and where I can have this done in a workshop has the idea that you can trust and that doesn’t take away all my saved away! Otherwise I have to sell the Twingolaider and regret it very much that somehow no one really has a plan and can just call me a good free work place that can help in the Frankfurt area gladly and well! I’m really totally frustrated and k I’m a little out of my mind… yet thank you for every support!

Hello, my wife had crossed over 5 times today with my Twingo. Luckily nothing happened to her. The car is unfortunately so I think total damage! All airbags open except driver side airbag! Roof completely pressed in. A-pillar pressed in etc. He was EZ 09/2010 and had about 75,000km down. Does anyone have any idea how this now works with the insurance? Car was fully insured! Police was on site and the vehicle was towed. Did a Te rmin at the local insurance, where the car was insured! -How does it all work now? Replacement car (car)? Need one urgently, because I am working a lot and my wife has 20km to work (there is no bus connection there). -Can I unsubscribe the car? -How does this work with the purchase value? -Who will take the costs for the towing? Thank you for your help! mfg Rade

Warehouse damage of the Wapu or Lima? Hello, from the area of the V-belt there is a loudening klakkern and looping. In two workshops it could not be identified. In addition, a loudening howling/circle/squeaking occurs from time to time during motorway rides, which can possibly also come from a defective wheel bearing, which will soon be replaced (see thread) A removal of V-belts/squeeze rolls is to take place etc. But this is already with corresponding costs. The workshops want to earn money and offer the complete program immediately, if you can not make any suggestions for tests yourself. My question: Can you not test the function of the Wapu and the Lima without building something up. Have googled, but because I have no idea, here are questions: 1. Couldn’t you just pull off / disconnect the cables of the Lima. If the noise then should not be present, can it not be the Lima?? Or in the stand all electrisc Should the noise then be louder? The voltage of the battery is ok, by the way. Shouldn’t a defective Lima also be noticeable due to poor functioning or failure of the electrical system? Also no warning light available. 2. The water pump has been changed after a timing belt crack at the last owner only in Dec. last year, but a cheap part for 21 €. The car was then no longer driven before I bought it at the end of May. Since c a. 4000 km. Is the probability not very low that a Wapu should be defective during this period? Should not a bearing damage of the Wapu also be noticeable by coolant loss, which is not the case? Or by water stains under the car?? Can one remove the belts and check by where the noise comes from. If it is not there without belts, then it is not the Wapu, right? If one turns Wapu with the hand, a grinding sound would have to be heard s a, right? Can you locate the noise with a screwdriver, listen to the parts on it and hear where it is loudest? Where is the wapu at the Twingo?? Is it right that you can repair the bearings of the Lima at the Twingo? Perhaps it should also be the climate compressor. Should the noise then be louder in the running climate? Perhaps also the belts/clamp rolls. How can you check this? Thank you for the help! The upcoming repairs will be expensive (wheel bearings etc.) LG Dawso n

Hi, unfortunately, the car noise, which had been discussed earlier, occurred for the 4th time yesterday. So the loose, now removed wheel caps were not.It only appears sporadically. u. is not reproducible. I found the noise on Youtube, here the links http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlQwr2sGjFU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9DMsqSk7aM At the beginning it sounds the same as on the first video. On the second the noise is shorter and quieter to hear (a dull hay). However, as the journey increases, it gets louder and louder and more can be heard a screeching, grinding noise. That’s not to be heard on the videos. The noise does not change when giving/braking. However, if the car is short, a traffic light without the engine is enough, then it is no longer available. Does someone have an idea based on the videos? Through the videos it would have to be possible to find the cause now. I would still be on the Radla. But in my workshop I was told that the noise would have to occur continuously, always, it would be the wheel bearings. So that was excluded from the beginning.Is this information really correct or can a defective wheel bearing report sporadically?Need urgent help, because I have concerns that I will break my Twingo, my workshop has no plan so far. LG Dawson

Hello, I’m on my way to get my sister a beginner car. Price is at 3000€ (yes, she has her mother’s friend as sponsor) I know myself with cars, not perfect, but at least no layman. It should not be a German car, because for German cars the insurance is too high. The car is insured on my father and she is indicated as the youngest driver. He drives on SF 35 so 25% I can repair a few things myself, with your ( ) help and with guide In the internet and in a self-screw workshop, in which one likes to be helped. Then just the usual things, little consumption etc. I fell into the eye of the Twingo, which is already available with much city-friendly equipment for about 2000, at the dealer, with tüv and guarantee. Only there she has a “known” who convinces her, the higher insurance costs of a German car go along with less reperations, which is more perfect humbug. When I see the Audi of my parents (a4 b5 8d, 1.6 97), who has been regularly in the workshop every month for a year and is about to be shut down by motor problems, then see again! You will surely agree that in the price range as a beginner car with the requirements would be a detusches car luxury. So, Twingo would be good, but what about reperatures and replacement parts? Are the cheap and easy to get? She also said that you would like a Renalt Clio. How about it? ße toast

Hello together please for help my twingo bj96 is again kaput. and that the lock can not be taken away with the key. I gave a kolegen the twingo so he should look at it(without payment) he found nothing and for an investigation(miz payment) I simply did not have any money……I have to look in the google there is mentioned that in such problems the key or this decoder box kaput goes…….could it be the controller auhc?? and someone knows where you can get the best of it many times online or so it would then install/replace it itself……. And another question zuletz knows someone a car scrap site near Freiburg?? Maybe I could find something there? Please for help Greetings Muha

Hello you love, I don’t know any more with my car and hope that one or the other already had this problem or even has it!!!! Even in advance self RENAULT doesn’t know what it is!!! So it started a good month ago when I brake (it’s not always and also not at certain weather conditions or anything else) makes the brake such a funny ratter and the brake pedal becomes hard, so I can’t push it through again then after a few seconds it solves s but I’m back at this time when the brake pedal hard gets braked the car anyway… was already at renault a whole day it stayed because there were test drives made but the said problem didn’t occur and therefore you don’t know what it can be…. the bremklötze are still thick the drum brakes in the back were changed last year in the august anyway the brake fluid…… The kfz master of renault told me something about the brem disks but exactly he knew it no whether it would be because (great statement) have also told him that it is quite important for me to know what it is because I have a little child and I also don’t want to ride with people!!! he said to me I should look under what conditions this said rat occurs while braking but it just occurs on sometimes several times a day then a day not at all… I hope it could explain a bit and maybe someone could help me further Loves greeting a worried mommy out North Rhine-Westphalia