Category: Renault Twingo & Wind Forum

Hello, I once experienced a loud howling on a highway ride (see other thread, loud squeaking, screeching + steering wheel flutters). However, it only occurred once, but was so massive and long that I could only drive home very slowly. After the other possibilities were largely excluded, the wheel bearings are for example ok, I found the possibility that it could be the tires (saw tooth formation). One has given a catastrophic assessment, should not drive a motorway for a longer time, but most others said that this was no problem, but the tyres were not in such a good condition anymore, others said it was totally ok. Perhaps the dealer wanted to sell me new with the very bad assessment. Moreover, the steering wheel flutters extremely from 130 km/h and the bouncy has a very bad straight run; on close landings I had the tires balanced out today, possibly the vibration of the steering wheel is now gone. They are retreaded cheap tyres of Trayal (winter tires, were turned on by the salesman of the car as all-weather tires), from 2008, had the car for 5 weeks. If the noise came from the tires, it would not have to occur continuously or more often? Or is that dependent on the heat, floor covering, speed etc.? What exactly is a saw fence image? ung? I’ve googled and looked at photos, but as an auto layer I just don’t get smart about it. What’s uneven: the longitudinal direction of the tire, if you stroke over it or are it uneven in the transverse direction, that a block is higher than that next to it etc. or possibly both or the different height of a block. The longitudinal direction is ok according to my estimation, but the individual blocks (stoll edge) are extremely different. glaringly explain e.g. an assessment whether saw teeth also includes a different height of the stoll edges in transverse direction. Thank you! Dawson

Hello, I’m new here and urgently need HELP with my Twingo. The following problem exists: The Twingo starts only sporadically if it runs then without problems until you turn off again if you want to start again it turns but does not attract you then but the plus pole off the battery it starts again (but this does not always work)In the error memory it shows 2 errors at immobilizer and injection problem this is normal but my mechanicker he w The Wfs should first. To bypass or to turn off this was then strangely not possible one did not come into the config. Then also no speed was displayed at the reading he then typed on the OT giver this was however new. After a long time superior he reprogrammed the engine stew and it then ran for a short time until one has pulled back keys (he said the Wfs it is 100% not he had checked them). Since one can not access the Wfs or also no errors solved However, he didn’t recognize the signal he decided that the MSG was defective. Now my questions can be this ????? Do you have an idea what else it could be or did experience with it?? Oh yes the vehicle also has an LPG gas system from BRC. Thank you in advance for your answers!!

Hello and good evening, I’m about to get a Twingo 1.6 16v with 133hp and just 22tsd km. My question, what exactly is the difference between a Twingo 1.6 16v and the 1.6 16v RS???? The Ps number is not, because both have 133 Ps. Thanks for your help.. (I actually like the model Gordini, which in this price range has far more kilometers and no matching model around the corner.)

I don’t know if I’m right here now. On Friday evening, at a red traffic light, someone hit me unbraked. Speed was between 35 and 50 km/h. My bumper is broken across, on the trunk flap is a bump and the paint off, the trunk lid no longer goes to so that the central locking is no longer possible. Now my question is. The opposing insurance wants to send me an expert. Should I acknowledge this or can I What else can be under the bumper? Because I don’t have money for a new car at the moment, but I rely on my car. I also have strong head, crack and back pain. However, since I don’t have any physical work I don’t get an AU certificate. Oh yes, my car is a Renault Twingo ll BJ 2010 with 54,000 km. I’m looking forward to your feedback.

Hello dear reader, I have a big problem. My twingo hasn’t started in a few days. We tried to bridge the battery but now he doesn’t even make tock tock anymore… and the lights in the amatur board are all flashing up wide. I don’t want to sell the Twingo but I don’t have anything else to do. Please help me or give me a tip on what I can still try

Hello! When should you change the timing belt at Twingo (2008) 1.2 (58 HP)? What is written? We want to buy one and would not like to spend xxx Euros on this again.

Hello all together, My warning flashing system does not work properly, only if I press against the switch direction windshield it works. As soon as I release the switch the flashing system is off again. For this I want to remove the warning flashing switch to see what does not work there. 1.Test failed – the storage of the speedometer indicator also removed the frame around the ashtray and blower turning switch. Question : Do I need for example the complete disguise abs Chrauben ? Is there perhaps easier way to get to it? Twingo 1,2 16V Built 2003 Would you like to read your suggestions. in advance THANK YOU

Hello have bought a Twingo bj. 02 with slight accident damage, the car stood around about 6 months without being moved now we have renewed the sheet parts and built a new Baterie pure and well I can’t turn the car on, it jumps great, but can’t be switched at all, stands in ( N ) today ÖL still did not happen any, has a clue what it should be, fear now the worst (gear damage) greeting anna

Hello, the problem has been happening for a few days now and is only present as soon as the engine is warm. The lamps both start at the same time and also start again as soon as you step on the gas. I screwed a little at the adjustment screw for the gas train, so that it runs a little higher in idle. The lamps are then off, but go back on as soon as you turn on light or the fan starts in the front of the moto room. ig. The engine runs quite normally, has oil pressure, water and does not get too hot. Has anyone ever had a similar problem? I guess that there might be a mass point going on somewhere. Does where the mass connection for the two lamps or the display is located in the interior?

Hello dear community, Twingo 1995 C 06 Motor: C3G yesterday I drove to the 200km with our Twingo. All the time with normal driving mode at approx. 16° outside temperature. Then I kicked it briefly and then a short time later my water temp. display went on. Directly down and looked. Container was still full and at the water pump it hissed out. Seal -> leaks. (it then souped out whenever) Then everything was built apart. Pump and hoses as well as coolers respectively. Thermostat in tuchkopf and this opens also at 89°. The evening before, I already noticed that the heating only gets warm sometimes or stayed cold. Was there only air in the system? And how does this come in? Because as I see it, the heating is still in the “small circuit”. And what is the hose that goes from the water pump housing to the carburettor? LG Phil