Category: Renault Twingo & Wind Forum

Hi Community! I have a problem with my wife’s twingo. I have already tortured the search but the symptoms are different every time. It’s a C06 BJ. 99. He has run just under 80tkm and it’s a Twingomatic (i.e. automatic). Short description of the error: The car starts in the morning or when it’s cold is no problem. Even if it’s turned off again and again it’s no problem. Only occasionally (it feels more often) he jumps It’s a pleasure not to get away at the pump or where it’s extremely unpleasant. Then he orgs and orgs but it doesn’t happen. After a few minutes (a few minutes) you turn the key and it starts as if it had never been anything. I can almost rule out the known OT-Geber error because it doesn’t make the slightest noise in normal traffic, etc.. It never goes out or something like that. It also runs absolutely round. You can hear the petrol pump as soon as there is tension. So here too the error is rather unlikely. But what else could it be? Detonator switch? I’m baffled. Would be grateful for your help! LG Dennis

Hi @all! Could someone help me and post here which engine oil I need for my Renault Twingo 16V, Bj 2004? Can’t find my operating instructions! Thanks in advance! V50 hunters

Hello Have a problem my Twingo does not jump on ignition spark is at least on the 4 cylinder Have the candles cleaned nevertheless does not jump on I don’t know any more please for help car details Renault Twingo Year 1996 petroler 1.2 I think

Hello, bought me a second car Twingo. What should I say is good, but has already some flaws that I want to list here. What is this for a yellow warning light that occurs during the ride. It doesn’t glow now, had the engine switched off and then started again. I know that the first one should be read out, but this week I won’t have to come to the workshop next week because of the tester. But would like to know before I have written data about the Twingo in my signature. I would be happy if information came here. I have attached an image with the warning symbol. I have a picture with the warning symbol.

In my 1.2 C06 year 1999 a spark plug is black and oily. I think that’s why it sounds like a tractor when you’re standing and driving off. Sounds like 3.5 cylinders. What could that be? Are there any Twingo diseases. Ignition coil and candles already changed. Idle controls and throttle flap pots are also exchanged.

yes as life plays so, come home with my Twingo and park Him in the driveway, 1 hour later I want to get lots again but the Twingo doesn’t like anymore. First thought, WFS but this is OK, so troubleshooting. A candle turned out, AHA no spark then crankshaft sensor on the transmission changed, without success. A few relays in the engine compartment at the front left side of the battery changed, also no success. So still without sparks. The death switch is also ok. because I just used to Ü It’s starting to go to my honor as a car screwdriver, Renault can’t help either, because the big question mark always comes up over my head. Is there actually only the engine control unit left, that’s what I would like to have read out, but how if I can’t drive into the workshop with the Twingo? Can someone in the area Hannover this?? Is Renault Can Clip needed. . Chassis number is fixed in the control unit and does not change, must be pasted to the WFS, but without the chassis number that does not work. Slowly despair spreads, who can help ???????? Thanks Matze

Hello Twingo municipality, since the world’s best wife has got in the head to want a Twingo as a second car (max. 2000€), we have been looking for a suitable car for a good four weeks. The search function has already given me some helpful tips about the model. Nevertheless, I still have some questions that I have not found in the search function yet. Since you don’t know how the Twingo was driven, it doesn’t quite explain to me when the timing belt is changed Okay, after 5 years it is clear, but I would rather stick to the mileage specification. And here in the forum, there are indications of 60,000 – 120000km. I find the area quite large. I don’t want to start a new discussion here about the timing belt change, I decided for myself that we only look for vehicles that got the change at the latest at 90,000km, preferably with water pump. Is that realistic? I also read somewhere the e The C06 probably also has models that have a control chain instead of a timing belt. Which motors are these and how can I recognize which engine was installed? Is it true that the body is fully galvanized (up to the bottom)? How is it ordered for tightness of the folding or panoramic roofs? Hardly found anything about it. Are they really all, in the price range, so dense? Can the mileage be easily manipulated? And something more general: We already had four once made an appointment with a seller and then received a notification shortly before that the vehicle was sold. Once we wanted to make an appointment on the same day, we were the first interested parties, unfortunately the seller could not there and nevertheless the car was sold the next day. Because the buyer travelled especially from Oldenburg. We had only a journey of about 15km. I understand that one wants to get rid of his car as a seller quickly but should one at a buyer does not at least ask if a later interested person wants to come, whether he can not come honorably. Do I see that too narrow? Is it perhaps because I have bought only new cars in the last ten years, or is that today like this? So that’s enough questions now. Look forward to your answers and say thank you already. MfG. Lutz

Servus Community! Prolog: I’ve been thinking about getting a new car for a few weeks, which meets my requirements. That means that I’m a climber and alpine-affine person and therefore need a vehicle that brings me reliably to the respective mountain and also participates in one or the other crossing of the Alps, which obviously means some steep passes. Currently I drive a Twingo, which I appreciate very much, because economical, reliable, r Obust and above all paid! However, he makes me simply because of its nature to be equipped with a weak engine, which one or other worry, how long he still takes this joke with me. For almost half a year he accompanies me now and has already groaned quite well one or another time… Well, long speech short meaning, my question to you is rather a request according to estimations and yes, of course also technical understanding: How long does the engine make long journeys in the top speed range with? ( –> long, steep pass rides; access to some mountains; etc…) Had been afraid a few times, the little fucker is dying off… I realize that there are certainly better tailored weighings for this area, but actually I would like to keep the little one, I kind of like him and well…. I would also like to save the costs that another car would cause. Looking forward to your answers/assessments.

Yesterday was with “my” Renault seller to watch the new Twingo live. Bit chatted, and before I knew, I sat in for the test drive. It was a SCe 70 start stop in Dynamique equipment with folding roof, in pastel blue. Rear engine rear drive concept of course really costs space in the rear / rear in contrast to the predecessors. But in total it was fun to me, driving like a big car, but at the SCe 70 speed is necessary to get away quickly. e woman has also made a round, was quite pleased and to the dealer back we are then three to incl. child seat on the back bench. Also fits quite well, very practical are the rear doors and the small turning circle. The optical bonds on the R5 Turbo are unmistakable and give the vehicle character. We will calculate the days times an offer, however, the list price goes with a few amenities that we would like to have (climate, folding roof, el. mirror, real cruiser s ruckzuck direction 15,000€… Conclusion of the short trip: This Twingo has character again and is fun. Maybe someone else likes to add his mustard here. Greetings!

Hello guys, I don’t really have a lot of plan of cars, just use them to get from A to B. After my battery has already been discharged 4 times (3 times the start was not possible), I think it’s time for a new one. Unfortunately, this presents me with the problem, which one should I buy? Image org battery: http://postimg.org/image/6tej9yxn9/ Now I have read and have encountered the DIN ETN problem. 1. Don’t I know if DIN or ETN is printed on it?? 2. It’s hard to find a battery with these specs, too arg higher I don’t want to go with the A, because I don’t know how much the light mesh can spit out or how many amps the electric can make without damage. If I go too high with the Ah, it can’t be that the battery is completely charging right anymore? It would be nice if you could explain something to me with A and Ah and what has an effect on which and possibly a link to a good battery in Amazon The one with my Twingo runs or differently. Thank you! Maybe still important: price expectations about 100 euros. Own a Twingo of the II series, everything else I would have to look up first, if that is important. Manuel