Category: Renault Twingo & Wind Forum

Hello to all Twingo friends. Mine is a bit worried. I hope you can give me a tip. I drive the Twingo from year 2001 as a winter car with many short distances (11 km). I regularly have to remove and clean the hose from the air filter to the throttle flap (every 3-4 weeks). I notice that the car starts badly. There is another hose connected to this hose from the engine ventilation or crankshaft housing ventilation. My questions would be: 1. Why is this now planned, after all, the supply and combustion of the oil residues via the throttle valve into the cylinders. Is this possibly due to the oil or the fuel type ? 2. Would an oil-catch tank be useful here if necessary ? Has anyone ever installed this?

Hi guys, I made my driver’s license last year and because my girlfriend is a good 2 hours away by public transport it’s time I got my own mobile kit. I have the opportunity to buy a first generation Twingo (from 2003) in black, folding roof and without air conditioning (but the warm air I can get rid of very quickly and on short distances a climate can hardly really heat up) from a friend. PS have and has run only 54Tkm. Still steel rims (winter), aluminium for the summer, TÜV new and should cost 3000€. My question is now whether the car is worth it or whether it is too expensive (insurance, maintenance, gasoline). By the way, I am a student and therefore do not have inexhaustible means. Would I be happy about an answer. Mfg Pasi

Hello I need 2 tips what my twingo has for “macking”. my free workshop can’t do it. Twingo Metropolis, 6/1999, 118,000 km, 60ps/44KW, EURO2 a) Engine noises – loud chatter and ring the loudest in the cold, when without load the speed is reduced. (so if you go from the gas) The whole is loudest around the approx. 3000-3500 turns. In the warm condition it gets smaller. Ringing disappears almost completely. the speed range where this occurs becomes smaller. it bl but louder motor noises. b) at certain temperature and humidity dependencies and after about 20km slow autobahn ride (a40 in the ruhrpott) the “left front wheel” starts to squeak. it is a mechanical and metallic squeak which behaves synchronously to the wheel speed. if I briefly tap the brake it is short-term away, if the steering is only minimally moving it is also short-term away. ?????? Brake pads are still ok – ca 5-6 covering – together with brake disc n changed 2 years ago. Every time I go to the workshop with it, I have the demonstration effect that nothing squeakes. ;-(( thanks in advance for your tips tom

Hello everybody! Good advice is expensive… so far about 1500 euros… almost as much as the yellow flashes is still worth. But I hang on my Twingo. History: In late summer 2008 both wheel bearings were changed (hobby screwdrivers), about 3 weeks later the dilemma began. When braking the steering wheel vibrates, it starts at about 70 kmh and almost stops at about 60kmh. Up to now, the following parts have been changed by skilled workshops and delighted car mechanics: brake discs including blocks (up to 3 m) wheel bearing left again. Hub left (since the hobby screwdriver had left his vice traces there). Carry bearing left, coupling rods on both sides. Tires including rims. Balancing, track measurement, axle measurement. After each repair it takes about 800km and it starts again within 2 days. We are by now quite helpless especially since I mean that carrying bearings and coupling rods were only damaged by the slaging. If anyone else has an idea… imm The next thing to do is to have the right wheel bearing and hub re-made. For the following reason: Hobby screwdriver (the one with the vice) has unfortunately installed roller bearings which according to the specialist workshop have played at the latest after a year and thus the hub scraps. On the left is already a “real” one. For further ideas I am very, very grateful!!! Thank you! LG Ute and the yellow sauce.

Hi people, short history.Twingo is jerking on the start.But as soon as he drives,no problems.So error read out.Error row one probe 2.So far so good. So the Sonda after Kat.That is just a control probe.So the error must lie somewhere else. Since some parts are already jammed into the years, I wanted to exchange the following on the weekend. Fuel filter,Lambda probe before Kat and the throttle valve clean.The throttle valve as last.As much has to be dismantled. My wife wanted the Ki She came back and said the Twingo didn’t start. So I turned to the car and the key. And now there’s something very new about the Twingo.As if he hadn’t already macerated gen6g. Car doesn’t start because the whole lighting flashes.And you always hear a clack clack clack. So open the hood and stop where it comes from. It comes from to the right of the battery.So where the fuse box sits with the relays. And again and again also a clack k It’s sitting well hidden under the plastic case. Turn the ignition key to start, does nothing. No reaction. A flashing and clacking.More doesn’t happen anymore. It sounds like the flap of the throttle valve opens and closes in the same stand. Can a relay trigger such a defect? Or is even the control unit the cause. Does anyone have any idea what that can be?

Hello guys, now for the 100th time the topic that the little one doesn’t start. It’s a Twingo 1 1.2 with 75 hp. The engine just went off during the ride and then no more. I have changed the highly suspicious OT sensor so far and indeed with a new one from Bosch. I also changed the spark plugs. I have not noticed any damage on the cable and plug from the OT dealer. Can you test anything with the multimeter? Battery has already been charged a dozen times, he orgulates and The immobilizer works exactly as it is in the manual. It flashes until you turn on the ignition, then the red point appears and goes out after a few seconds. Unfortunately, we only have the one key to exclude it completely. Otherwise, nothing is noticeable from the indicators. The petrol pump also runs and on the exhaust it smells like I checked all the fuses. I also removed all the candles and held them against the ground when starting, spark is everywhere and the candles were drunk. This clearly points to the OT dealer because he gets gasoline and ignites, but the ignition time does not fit and therefore he drains. I just can’t get any further here and my friend urgently needs the car to get to work. Can you tell me from my description, What else can I test? Thank you very much!

Hello! My Twingo 2 (Night and Day), 176000 mileage is a lot of worries for me, so I’m thinking about looking for a new used car. Unfortunately, I can’t get any further in my search. The perfect car, it doesn’t seem to be there for me, so I’m thinking about getting a Twingo again. But you can give me one or the other recommendation… What I like about the Twingo and what a reason for me would be it again. buy: 1. The look, both from the interior and the outside. I just like snuggle balls. 2. The space available. Other small cars have, in contrast to the Twingo for my feeling, still too little luggage compartment 3. The maintenance is very favorable for my feeling. What I would like however: 1. A little more PS 2. A seat more for passengers 3. A little more reliability (especially in winter or to the TÜV always encounter problems) Is there a car that unites all this or am I there with a I was mostly satisfied. Drive mostly city, but also often AB or country road. So, I would need an all-rounder. Loved with a Hyundai i10, however, the performance is too weak for me. Chevrolet Spark I also found great, but was advised not to do so. Suzuki swift? Should there be such serious gear problems, Opel Corsa is too high for me… I’ve already looked at so many cars at Googel and Co, abe No one seems to fit in.

Moin, I now had twice the experience of total powerlessness. After driving and turning off the Twingo, i.e. ignition off and via remote control I want to close the vehicle short time later – but nothing there. Over keys open, ignition tries – nothing, no electricity, no interior lighting… So – battery tested, was fully charged, fuse box opened, all chic. Cigarette smoked, prayed to the Twingo god, once ran around the vehicle. I wanted to suppress the “appearance” in the aftermath but yesterday “It” re-emerged. I thank you in advance for references to this phenomenon. Greetings – Klaus.

Dear Twingo III friends, a friend has been driving a 71hp petrol for 8 years (Bj 2015). Since Sunday, however, the radio remote control FFB no longer works. I renewed the battery (CR2016, 3V) yesterday. The old one only has 2.4V . Nevertheless, without success, the central locking system no longer works. Until I have found the cold soldering point on the FFB board and soldered it, I would like to ask for your assessment: Is there any possibility with the Twingo III, if you like Fnet driver’s door, by pressing the central locking button on the dashboard once, to lock all the other 4 doors simultaneously? Then the driver’s door could be mechanically locked by key and everything would be good. PROBLEM: Without working TWINGO III radio remote control in the driver’s key obviously all 5 door locks will remain OPEN, can that be wanted ? On holiday e.g. this would be extremely unfavorable .. In our old Renault Espace III can also without FFB all doors one Thank you in advance for your kind help. H.

Hello, together I changed from Twingo 1 R06 to Twingo 2 ! Since the old one had no climate ! But the new one had to find out no trunk lighting smaller trunk, no divided rear seat which is not foldable like the old complete and glove compartment is also dark.Now you think, if you buy a successor model the proven constructions are taken over! Room Wonder Twingo 1! Unfortunately this is not exactly the same, Twingo 3 engine back and even smaller suitcases I don’t wonder for a long time that the car industry is slowly but surely going down the road. Hope that the successor will be just as expensive a companion as the old one!