Category: Saab 900 II & 9-3 I Forum

Was in the workshop and the exhaust manifold cat was replaced as well as cylinder head newly installed, all in all around the 2,800,– EUR and now the following: Immediately when driving home, when stopping at the first traffic light the engine stutters (when rolling out), the body shakes powerfully and the car almost drains when I leave the brake slightly (light still red) and the car rolls it slowly away. The whole thing then happened almost every time while braking, on the 2nd day still but long nic It happens as often as the day before, then days 3-4 only sporadically, but it still happens. Especially when I go down into the underground garage it happens every time (car tilts forward into the driveway while I open up). What can that be? It also happens when I stand at the traffic light after about 3-4 minutes, briefly stuttering, paired with powerful shaking of the body and then sometimes sink down, sometimes slightly roll up and is gone. Does anyone have any idea?

Dear Saab friends, I have found a YS3D with Noob Stage 3, 3″ Downpipe, Maptune AGA, Turbo from Aero, Do88 LLK and a phenomenon in power measurement, but also in real operation and hope that you can help me with the analysis. In the diagram you can clearly see the fall from 2700rpm, which makes itself noticeable in wot as wavy acceleration. What I have read out so far with open SID in the hope to see a randomity (= also a burglary) there: Pinl: runs the same äßig hoch bis 2150, kein Burglung mAir follows mReq well, excessive at 2500rpm by approx. 20, otherwise remains approx. 20-70 under mReq -> could the too much measured air mass take back the power? ZZP: zw. 2000 and 3000rpm at approx. 8-9° at wot, from 3000rpm continuously rising (= more early ignition). Thank you and many greetings, Axel

Hello together In search of a stylish convertible I stepped on the following vehicle: SAAB 9-3 2.0i-16 Turbo Cosmic, 07.1998 / CHF 9的999.–, Automat, Gasoline, Cabriolet, 185 hp, red met., Occasion https://autoscout24.ch/en/9405122 The car should be able to pull our caravan (850kg loaded). What do you think of the car in general? Is it worth looking at it?

Hello, have a 9-3 2.0 T Built. 12.98. I am actually quite satisfied; but have a phenomenon since the latest, which I can not estimate. My ventilation is sometimes very fast and then fall back very quickly into the preset range. Sounds almost like a “puffing”. Pollen filter is changed, blower motor is free and also in the installation area no moisture. I then tried the EPC and asked a few screwdrivers; yield was rather poor. is actually only the assumption that the blower resistance/control unit (5045158) has one away: A) can this be ?? B) if yes, where is the installation location and how to get there best ?? (if possible, detailed description.I found in the HAYNES nix usable) Thanks for your help WOLF

Hello, with my 9-3 LPT cracks and cracks it when springing in and out from the front axle area. It gets worse and worse, but only occurs at low outside temperatures (which is why maybe worse?) and disappears after about 15 minutes driving time. Is also independent of steering impact or does not occur by steering. My “not Saab” screwdriver could find nothing, springs heal, all joints tiptop and firm, not what you see from the outside or provocative with the crowbar someone an idea what that could be and above all whether it’s dangerous? Torsten

Hello, with me everything is going really super cares me very lovingly for my Saab, had had a lot changed. Last month I thought that it was time to change spark plugs and the petrol filter. ( spark plugs were told to me in summer already that it would not be bad to change the in 10 000 km or so, fuel filter..no idea if the changed and when at 187 000 km it would not be wrong I thought) Order everything also other small things (Ant i nne etc. ) at Elkparts, NGK Platinum and because filter, everything comes quickly to everything super… for the first time. Then let change in the workshop ok. Then the car did not run at all ok, no power constant jerking, irregular work from the engine (only with warm engine) high consumption. So clear… the spark plugs were corrupt, or the filter…before everything was tip top. Had already checked cables and so back to the workshop there…running around the stuttering explained spark plugs changed (i ch never experienced the defective sparks arrive) unfortunately no NGK anymore but Saab..ja autsch expensive and are actually NGK, no matter. Then car taken super no stuttering or jerking drives when speeding up, power is also there. Only one thing is the annoying. It’s again with the warm engine when I stand at the traffic light, sometimes to feel an unconstant work from the engine. That there was not before. Should I go to the workshop and ask if the filter is properly mounted? Or please gi bt me a advice. As I said it’s not always but sometimes you notice it and you hear it as if the computer tries to normalize it (I’m really not sure biite not laughing) So wait for your tips, and sorry wanted to explain everything with 3 sentences but with my speech keys and will to convey it to you it wasn’t easy, greetings

Hello, I was in Berlin with BMW on Friday and I had a 5s count and got an offer for my Saab convertible. Is one of the last built from 08/2001, the fully equipped Summer Edition 2.0t (only Navi was not available yet) in black, switch, full leather, brainwashed on 210 hp with sports suspension. Only 54,000 km run. Set of winter tires. Doesn’t look completely licked, but has nothing that goes beyond normal traces of use. As everyone here know, a dream car. t BMW? 7500 Euro. The seller was totally embarrassed by the DEKRA calculation, because according to Schwacke the dealer purchase price is 11.400 Euro and according to ADAC the box should still be worth about 13,000 Euro. If you pull off 2000-3000 because of the general situation, you still end up clearly above it. I know that the dealers currently not exactly after used ones liking, but my question is: Is this already due to the insolvency for Saab? Do you think that the old convertibles on the private market still so are as popular as a few years ago or I prefer to drive my treasure until it breaks apart, because where do you get so much driving fun for so little money?

Hello, I’m new here as a member and unfortunately also Autolaie, so I would like to have your help. Recently I noticed a cable in the engine room, which is twisted in itself, wrapped around different pipes and whose insulation has slipped back at the end (perhaps through the whole turning). I took two photos of it. (At “detail photo”, later comes an overview photo.) Could someone tell me what this is for a cable and if this condition is worrying? Many D ank in advance, Gelsomina

Hello guys, Hello girls, dear Saab connoisseurs and friends, unfortunately I have a technical question, which is probably not to be solved by remote diagnosis 100%. I try it times: Last week I made a “Tour de Force” through Germany and Poland to visit clients. Overall at the 5,000 KM. Yesterday evening, about 150 KM away from Berlin, I noticed that it is very hackling when changing gear. 2-3 gear and 4th to 5th gear. Especially striking is it when switching up vo m 4th into the 5th gear. In the city I also noticed that when I started (1st gear) I had to give more gas than usual so that the car started. For other cars, whose couplings were through, the revometer went up when giving gas without having an effect (acceleration). Now this is not the case; when the car is in the 5th gear, it is also normal. D.H. I do not notice any unusual things on the revometer. Unfortunately, I am unexpectedly faced with a larger tax loss. g, despite ESt.-prepayments, before. Now I’m really afraid to drive into the workshop, because I don’t really miss a transmission damage. Yes, yes, I will be man enough and drive there. But it would calm me if one of you only taps on the clutch and not on the gearbox. Naaa, what should I adjust to? Coupling is probably ok at 148 TKM. I assume from 800 Euronen. The transmission repair is probably at 2500 Euro. Thanks for your answers and greetings from Berlin, Alex

Today I mounted the winter tyres just in time. I directly used the new wheel screws with separate cone seat (there was once a SI/ swap action). The new wheel screws are especially aimed at those who switch between aluminium and steel rims. This is the case with me with the winter tires (15” on steel rims for the winter and the Anni 16” aluminums in the summer). With the steel rims, the wheel screws only have contact with the rims at a small point and this rubs with At the new wheel bolts the cone seat no longer turns, only the screw turns. When the old wheel screws were loosened, at least 3 screws were much looser than the other wheel screws. The old screws flown immediately into the scrap metal bucket without comment. All screws are tightened with my torque wrench and a wild mechanic with impact wrench on full throttle I do not let me approach the car. People look at the wheel screws when changing tyres or switch to the new wheel screws with a rotating cone seat.