Category: Saab 900 II & 9-3 I Forum

Hello, on Friday, when I was finally through the traffic jam on the A3, the 36 degrees hot air suddenly came out of the ventilation at the best cruising speed; in addition, a snoring noise came from the front. Because of the noise I called the ADAC and he recommended me to park at an ADAC contract workshop. Because the climate compressor hung on the normal V-belt and should block the compressor, then… . . so then continue with the rental car. Yesterday then the bad news: Compressor-L ieferzeit = 1 week. The Ford screwdrivers have removed the compressor, installed a shorter belt and I was able to drive home. Angry, the whole… – is this error a Saab disease? Did I run the climate too rarely (the boss said at Ford!)? Where do I get a new compressor? Does the clutch have to be changed with it? Can one test at all and find out whether and which part is defective? That means what do I order? And where do I order? Thank you already in advance for your answers!

Cover problem the hundredth – times a question to the the41kater Hello – the41kater You seem to be something like Saabgott and can perhaps help me with the diagnosis of my covered 900 II year 96. Symptoms: 1. Open the cover – Ping roof system Check – the cover purrs but the finest and releases the view into the respective weather sky. 2a. Deck then open “short drive to Becker or so” and cover went only without problems – later motor lock ng fifth bolt/cover ears up only to 2/3tels – cover closed nevertheless with short friction to the locking bolts. Lock motor fifth bolt closes. 2b. Deck on then “long drive” and close cover did not work at all. Lock motor did not unlock and accordingly the “ears” did not drive up. 2c. Now it is no matter whether long or short driving by car: cover does not close – meaning I have the famous two-finger-wide gap on the fifth Spri 3. Tech 2 opens and closes the engine in the cover flap – potentiometer from Saab reprogrammed: Deck opens and closes a few times and now the same problems Saab says engine in order control ok. and for his age the cover is top in shot. 4. Again at Saab Tech 2 roof open, roof double with the hammer against the lock motor and the engine unlocks and roof again. So, what can that be, if the Motor must open the roof correctly first unlocked and then locked (that he has to close the cover flap above the tonneau, but with roof too no longer unlocked????????? with great hope that you or someone else here in the forum will prove to be Saab internist and tell me how to proceed. At the dealer you don’t listen to me. “The engine must be new” can’t be, because it works when it opens. “Control must be new” can’t be, since the whole opening/closing-Vo rgang would spin – say the Saabies at the dealer. Greetings from Frankfurt

hello, I most likely have to repair my saab 902 wd^^ the following must be done: – shock absorber front -cross-over handle -shaft sealing gear – track rods with head – exhaust from kat shock absorber and exhaust I would do alone, how does it look to share with the others? can you change the also relatively easily yourself or do I need special tools? how do you change the shaft sealing ring at all? the gearbox can hopefully stay on top of that?! lg

Good morning, yesterday front left is the spring lowest winding, about 1/3 circumference broken, before a week customer service with exchange crossbars at said place. now the question arises, should I replace only the spring, or given a running power of 130000 the dampers equal with, or equal to a sports suspension. vehicle is 9-3 cabrio bj2001 with deer stage 1 210ps. please to advice. frank

Hello dear Saab friends, for 14 days now I am proud owner of a Saab 9-3 convertible 2.0 turbo SE EZ 12/2001. The dream of my youth and with approx. 99 Tkm driving performance. TÜV etc. everything new. The car is in a great condition. My only wormwood drop is the driving behavior. It is simply too spongey for me. Who has experience or can give me tips – I want to reach a road position via an exchange of springs or even springs and shock absorbers, which is (at least still) comfortable but also tight.

Hello dear forum, for a few weeks now I have been thinking about becoming more Scandinavian in terms of vehicle technology. I am very satisfied with my golf, but the lease agreement expires in a few months. Since I don’t want to pay any more installments in the future, the purchase has to become a little cheaper. Similar to Volvo, I like Saab very well, more precisely the 9-3. If you browse through the relevant sales pages, I am surprised that you get the 9-3 under 100000km still quite cheap (under 700€). When using the SuFu you get of course much about defects etc. But it is clear that you write about defects more than about good experiences. I would like to know from “experienced” 9-3 driving, whether they would objectively recommend this vehicle. On the motor side I am still not fixed. My driving performance in some months is over 2000 km, annually about 25000km, to 80% highway. If you have full seat usage we are on board for two plus a lap dog. I need a robust and reliable vehicle, that will not accompany me faithfully with all the next years!

Hello! A question to the people who have the smart WIS program. If I want to change the cylinder head gasket, I have to reckon with which hourly approach in the workshop? My estimate is from 4 hours but I can also deceive myself. The change itself belongs only to the seal (without sealing mass or with sealing mass?) and 10 stretching screws! That’s right, right? The parts themselves amount to 77,80€, but now is the question of working hours. Must or should you let other parts change immediately? Ask only because often the workshops want to do even more x- other things. But I think only to let the seal change if it is necessary! With friendly greeting to the Forum Fz data: Saab 93, 2,0 SE Turbo Year of manufacture: 01/ 2000 Power 151 KW (205 HP) Transmission: Automatic Addition: Complete Original, no modifications, no additions Running performance: 201000 km

Hello guys, I want my 9-3 Anni. Coupe (so a vehicle with “old” aero apron) finally free from its ugly diesel tailpipe and have a correspondingly nice aperture mounted! Now I think about what kind of (form and size) it should be. I really like the round oval to angular shape of the Viggen tailpipe. Therefore my question to you, so that I can better assess what is exaggerated and what appropriate looks like: How are the dimensions of the aperture/endpipes (or . their opening) with your car (so not only Viggen)? Photos would be naturally suuuuper, but also simple opinions are required :-)! Thank you very much for your help! DJD

Hello forum, as reported, I approached the upgrade of the audio system in my 9-3er. The speakers up and in the doors sit so far, now it’s time for wiring. And there’s the problem: I can’t get the radio out of its shaft. Is the Saab original (double-din.). Maybe I’m stupid? With two so radio hooks I can solve the radio and pull out about five to six centimeters, then it’s over. Sounds like somehow metal on Met It doesn’t move any more millimeters. Up, down, left and right shakes and shakes – nothing. Hardly pulled (was already afraid of the dashboard) – nothing. Is there any trick? Thank you Seb.

Hello! I’m looking for a new used car and I stumbled over the following offer: SAAB 9-3 2,2 Tid SE, 102,000 km, EZ: 12/01 is at the SAAB dealer, all service was made, should cost 10,900. I like the car very much. Is there in the near future a larger service or something planned? How are the maintenance costs with this diesel so? I am probably one, with which a diesel does not financially expect about 15,000km per year, but on such invoices I’ve never given much. Is there anything else with the engine besides the possible mud problem? I think the almost 100,000 should not be a bigger problem, right? Thanks in advance for answers.