Category: Saab 900 II & 9-3 I Forum

Hello all, my ABS control unit was defective. This problem also appears here in the forum. Saab replaces only the entire system (EUR 3000). The part for EUR 160 could be repaired. Installation no problem. I drive the Saab 9-3 I, Bj, 2000, 154 hp. Had it “extended” several times. Tachonadel then goes to a little over 210 km/h. Now come on: today’s first longer motorway ride. I gave gas on free distance (even) times. At 180 (needle something over, about 182) was over! Nothing more. At about 4100. Onboard computer resets at top speed: 176 km/h. Does anyone have any idea what this could be about? Has the car possibly slowed down? Funkt. der Tacho nicht correct? Turbocharger?

Hello together! Shortly before Halloween my SAAB 900II becomes ghostly. My original radio turns on itself, which brought the neighbors tonight Eros Ramazotti followed by ACDC as a musical background of their night activities. Nicely loud! The radio was off when getting off at 18h, keys deducted, volume normal. Then started roaring at half past eleven! Does anyone know this behavior? Hope for all involved that this will not become the rule. Balurdan

Hello Saabgemeinde My problem is an annoying whistle noise which recently appears more and more often with cold engine and cold outside temperature during the departure phases. It sounds similar to a blow-off valve, which then disappears however with warm engine. As it sounds comes the noise in driving direction seen from the front left. have already looked all hoses and also changed the bypass valve, but unfortunately without success. Where could be the cause and wi e could one fix these ? Thank you in advance . Greetings Gary

Hi guys my Saab has the following problem: when the engine runs idle and the radiator fan and /or the air compressor starts the engine speed goes down, the engine shakes uncomfortable before it is stabilized again by the electronics. can you set something to improve that? thank you for information L

Hello dear Saab drivers! I don’t know if my concern has been dealt with before. I put it in the room with this: On my 2,3-suger the exhaust was due according to time, and both pots. Since the parts in the contract workshop had to be ordered first and cost a small fortune, I looked around for an alternative. I assume that Saab does not produce the silencers himself and therefore it is unnecessary to pay for the name. As an example of price, the rear silencer costs approx. 340,– in the Saab workshop alone and in the Flenner catalogue (named “original” 154,–. In a fast workshop it is required for part 190,–, for a total of 465,– for both silencers including work and two years warranty I was able to pick up my vehicle already two hours later (without lengthy pre-order). The parts are now manufactured Walker, the mechanic assured me that Saab will also receive them from there. Now I am but not really satisfied with the result, the sound sounds like something leaking, although twice was checked and no leak was found. Now I am unsure: Does Saab build its silencers for example and foreign parts are really only “cheap” copies? Does anyone know more about it? Do I have to try to have a quiet vehicle next time, after all, the expensive contract workshop or are there better suppliers? Another technical question on the side: What is the respective function of the two silencers and which one is responsible for the noise? Thank you for your opinions and advice! Alex

Hello, I would like to know if the defects of my SAAB (Bj. 98) have also occurred with others: SID defective CD defective air distribution switch defective (breaks 1x each year, because plastic hinges of the air flaps are fixed) ashtray holder broken footmat holder broken turning roller for belt fixed (lead to rot) headlight lamps hold only short time hand brake is permanently too weak water break (if necessary over the sliding roof) with mold formation company log o on hood and tailgate flips off According to my research (also with SAAB), e.g. the SID problem and defective air distribution switches are typical flaws. I am surprised by the predominantly positive opinion about SAAB, I would never buy a SAAB again.

Hello people, the fault orgy continues! Since the installation of the injection pump, I have the check engine on the light from time to time again. It is reproducible, always when I drive with stand gas, no matter which gear. For example, in the stop and go just roll with stand gas in the first or second gear. Then the check engine lamp goes on after a few seconds. As soon as you give gas it is immediately out again. I tried it once in the city traffic in the 5th gear and there it is also so. So b I drove to the Bosch service today and had the error memory read out (for 20€ !!!). Error code is splash start control (P1220), but uncritical (so the Blaumann), the value is 4.6° in idle mode. If it doesn’t get worse I can drive with it without any problems. I don’t know what to think about it now!?! Can someone explain/tell me something about it!? What is this angle, how big / must he be, is it really as uncritical as he says? What can you do? ? Thank you! PS: Otherwise the car runs great, that’s the only problem I have. PSS: SAAB 9-3 TID with 115hp

Hello Forum I drive a Saab 9-3 I, year 04/2002, B205E, 2.0Itt, Trionic T7, about 155,000 km. Since last week, the motor control indicator light has been shining on me. The reading of the error memory resulted (in the free workshop of my trust) in the following: B205E – 2.0Itt – Trionic T7 – MT/AT error memory P1110 bypass valve (turbo). After deleting the error memory the lighting of the motor control control light came back after 2 days. I assume that the bypass valve replaces we This is probably only in the original of Saab. What does this valve have for a task and how expensive is it and can it be installed yourself? Can I check if the old valve is really broken? Thank you for your help and many greetings, the Michael Mark

YS3D..,155 kW (211 HP) Hirsch Step 1, 9-3 I Cabrio SE, MY 2000, meanwhile 99,700 Km, Mobil 1 0W40 (max 10.000 Km). Dear colleagues, a little further down I reported about passport rides about German, Austrian, Swiss and Italian Alps. Now a new problem has emerged: after this tour the idle speed was about 1 mm below the “normal” value until then. So I first carefully screwed the idle setting screw into “higher”, without special result, Then back again and in the other direction, even without any result. There were maybe 2 revolutions each. Then I ran a little harder until the control screw was completely outside. The engine was warm and kept running unimpressed. I switched off the engine. I turned the adjustment screw in next morning on the cold engine about until it was always there. When screwing in there there was a slight resistance and then a crack. Since then hot If it is “Check Engine”, the idle speed I can no longer get under 1500-1600 and the cold start behavior is catastrophic. I guess that I am in Home Limp. I did the trouble and removed the throttle valve body and photographed the mechanics. The metal handle which takes the flap with me does not go far enough in the direction of the control screw (in the picture much too deeply screwed in), thus the increased idle speed and this because the spring end right in the Image doesn’t go deep enough into the recess, but hangs on the first stage. Or is it normal and the stuff hangs somewhere else? Besides, I have the impression that the end of the spring, in the picture to the left of the metal handle, develops far too little force to press the metal handle so strongly until the end of the spring arrives very deep in the recess. What sense does a jagged plastic disc with the feathers that moves easily on the axis? Maybe you had ever had of yours a similar problem, then please let me hear what. – Do I need a new throttle valve body with all the drum and drum? – or is it perhaps done with a deletion of the error in the memory? – then also a calibration is necessary, because I have deducted the “Home Limp” cable? I thank you already in advance for your competent answers wwaallddii

Hello, I have a bigger rust spot on my rear wheel box. The previous owner unfortunately did not manage to paint properly, although he is a car master and car salesman, after he has snapped somewhere along. Very disappointing, if when washing 10 cm2 paint fall off!!! I have now sanded down the rust and applied a zinc powder paint for temporary preservation. My question: Why is a swab coat always darker when applying it? Is it because it is Is it more concentrated than the paint from the paint shop, or is it because of the lack of clear varnish, or because of the thicker layer, or does it have something to do with the hardener? I want to “repair” it as inconspicuously as possible, but have no money to make it. I also have a spraying gun for paint with a compressor. Would you rather spray it, or brush it? Are there also small sray cans with car paint? What is better? Are there differences between swab paint and spray paint (except for consistency)? in the acquaintance has told me that one can mix paint with polish, or scratch remover and apply it in several layers and dry the rest after a short time, or wipe off the effect. Is there any experience there? In theory perhaps even possible (several thin layers on a light surface (priming) should also give an effect if the paint is compatible with the scratch remover), right?