Category: Suzuki Motorrad Forum

Hello to each other. I have been a proud owner of a 1993 GSXR 750W since a few weeks. Smaller defects, such as rattling steering dampers and similar things have already been fixed. However, the motor running causes me to break my head. The following problem: When I roll through a village in 4th or 5th gear, and then pull it up at the end of the village, it simply does not attract. It starts to mock and spit up to a speed of about 5000 revolutions and sounds like a throttled mofa. BRRRRRRRBRRB RRRRRBRRBRRBR. From 5000 rpm everything is normal… the following was done: spark plugs new air filter new carburettor cleaned, adjusted and synchronized. Half everything nothing. I also set the carburettor to the set value of 1.25 i.e. 1 1/4 revolutions. Man might think that it would run too fat in idle and partial load range… carburettor membranes are perfectly fine. False air doesn’t pull them either. round setting to run fat??? Thank you. MfG.: Matze

Would like some advice. Just a little ahead I am quite a layman. Although I have a good technical understanding but rather in the electronic field. And that’s when I got a bandit GSF600 (with throttle because of A2) a year ago. And at first it went really well and I was very satisfied. Bite on a few “little things” e.g. Is it after a longer standing (from about 2 weeks) quite difficult again or dies again at the same time, If the motorcycle was only a short time off (until about 20 min) she also went a little harder. I didn’t mind that yet. Now, after I got her out of the garage again, the same problem was like last year. Dies after a few seconds. After several attempts she ran and I turned a small lap and I still don’t have the full power even after about 20min drive and the sound of the machine was also a bit dull and not right. What do you think? Workshop or do you have tips for me what I could try? Thanks in advance for the help

Tach together, I’ve been driving since the new 750s Gixxer on which the Michelin Pilot Power are on it. I’ll get along well with them, but there should be better options. That’s why I’d like to hear your experience about the only two mature ones in question, so Conti Sportattak 3 and Metzler M7 rr. What do you think of the two ??? And before anything else comes up, I know everyone has their preferences but these are now the two best options. LG

I need your help. I plan to install a Hayabusa engine in an old Suzuki GSX 1100 F (GV72C) frame. Everything should be made suitable. I am not a beginner when it comes to changes. The TÜV has already signaled approval. Only condition, because of the large power increase, they want a safety certificate that the frame tolerates the force injection. The request at Suzuki as expected left without result because they do not need your help. ts. Could someone call me contact person where I could keep demand. I am thinking of evaluators for SB conversions or similar thanks mopeddriver

I’m new here Hot leon and come from Idar-Oberstein. My father bequeathed to me his 600s bandit (to be honest, I don’t know if cult or pop think pop has lost neither letter nor paper -.-) no matter Wellja she stood in the barn for 9 years and I want to make her run apropos she just doesn’t run like she should. So I’ve been making a few days now. I tested for the first time on the first day if something is fixed in terms of engine. In which I made the 6 gear in she pushed was clear motor not fixed wheel dret though heavy but with it directly a problem with clutch pull no difference noticeable or clutch does not separate. Anja for the first time didn’t matter. I let the 9 year old broth off from the tank as well as swimmer chambers and after 2 battery charges and lots of mosquitoes hurra it ran. But everything else than good. She however sounded naja shit (had everything with pictures and videos … and what do you say about it as if someone had tipped tar into the carburettor when I will soon upload the pictures everyone and really say EVERYONE didn’t run but did everything documented. No matter new needles and everything cleaned up because I also had fuel in the engine room all assembled oil new and now we are closer to today’s stand. By the way, I forgot to say that it remained on but I got to the gas g I didn’t have to think about the choke because it only went out when looking at it. So today I installed the carburettor the clutch I also made the lamellas clean outside were glued to the clutch would pull several lamellas at once I also pulled everything on video. So see that the bitch war starts now after Mucken. BUT THE BLOOD DING WILL IMMERNOTCH NO GAS APPROACH. So I touch the curved ones but only burn my hand 3 times… Cylinders num So if I sit on it left side of the inner is cold ? What could that be ? Well for the first time I don’t think at all give the gas and test the spark plug of cylinder number 2 for the first time … hold it for mass bla bla and it goes … have changed it anyway or changed it 3 times I do not have the spark plug of cylinder number 2 to another

Hello short to the history of the DR 500S: have it been for about 3 years now, it got by chance by 200€, to make were only the forksimmerings, a handguard belonged to exchanged, and front of the hose from the tire, 8000km ran, smaller superficial corrosion damage, otherwise everything ok Have the following problems: the suspension in front seems too soft, helps me if I fill oil with the fork? further I have a sharper brake in front always so quiet cracks, probably of the Steering head bearings are coming, but from the beginning I was already like this, should I try to adjust this or change it immediately? and then there would be the blow from the front of the brake disc, I also had it from the beginning, of course I change it, only I ask myself whether the hub has not been affected, how best to check it? otherwise the new brake disc will soon have a blow again…… Is the problem with the overturning of the wheel What is the ideal solution? Helicoil inserts? At the moment, the lid is sealed (in addition to sealing compound and original seal), and the screws also hold (partly glued in with bolt securing), only if I have to remove the lid again, I have the problem with the overturned screws again…. Then there is still this chain guide roller, because the bearing should be defective, can m Is that what I want to switch to or do I need to change the whole role? MfG

Evening zsm, Unfortunately I had a bigger problem with my 600 GSX-R k7… From the beginning: About 4 weeks ago after a long drive at the traffic light the gear-km/h display stopped. Shortly afterwards it went out. Battery empty… My friend took it and changed the Lima controller. Without improvement. Then the message LiMa burned through. Since the company has made good experiences with Limas from the accessories, I decided to do so. After a good 5 days I was allowed to w I wanted to start again and Zack battery empty. However, I don’t think it was the Lima because it didn’t go out during the ride. Now I thought that during the last tour I was only driving on battery voltage that hit the battery. 3 days ago new acid battery bought and drove again. Today then again… battery empty. Since I didn’t get another week at m a gixxer wants to wait and he wants to lose Euros I turn to you. Lima and battery can be excluded or? With crawl current etc I know myself so zero. Electrical was never my territory Has the k7 than larger sources which could draw electricity? Jmd had the same problem? Hope to answer numerous and helpful ones. Greetings

Servus Community, I bought a Gixxer 750 K7 2 days ago, with 11,000 km. The previous owner installed a new maintenance-free, but already pre-filled battery 2 weeks ago. When I picked it up it was empty, like during the test drive a week ago, but he had it recharged during the visit. Here to my problem: The battery was recharged by me overnight and then installed in the morning. It jumped on quite normally and I let it warm up about 5min. I then drove 200 meters, suddenly everything went off (suspected on controllers), the speed pointer stopped at 2,000 rpm, and the speedometer didn’t go any more when I recharged the battery again to start it again, I turned the ignition on ON and the speedometer didn’t do anything, the pointer is still on 2000rpm and no lighting goes, the starter doesn’t make any noise either. As no power comes up, everywhere. I couldn’t bridge either. I’ve used the fuses so far The battery should be on the radio. since it is new or not? Can any of you experienced rabbits help me? LG

Hello dear engine talk community I have found a following problem after I wanted to drive my machine for the first time to the stop to see where the limit lies I have found that I do not get to the speed more limited.My motorcycle has a speed display of 16,000 revolutions and at 12,000 revolutions the stop remains (red range starts at 13,000 revolutions ) but the limiter should only enter at 13,500. I have in the last 2 weeks ai oil+oil filter brake fluid chain degreased & lubricated carburettor cleaned On Iridium GFK spark plugs UMGEBAUT air filter renewed forksimmerrings renewed fork oil renewed carburettor cover conversion (Japan model) main nozzles new (Japan model) float needle new (Japan model) handle heating new seat heating new carburettor was only synchronized today. Due to the changes in the carburettor my motorcycle would now also have to deliver 59 hp as in the original Japanese model GSF 400 GK75B Year of construction 12/94 What could it be that my bike could not turn up to the limiter? I would be happy about tips and experience. Greetings Ceyhan

Servus Together! My GT 200 (2 cylinders, 2 clocks no longer starts. It produces no vacuum or too little vacuum in the engine. The candles are dry, ignition and carburettor is fine. The carburettor is now degraded. If I hold a lighter flame behind the suction nozzle the flame will be blown out. However, it should be sucked into the suction nozzle. Now I assume that the crankshaft sealing rings are worn. On the side of Nippon Classics the GT 200 X5 will be shown. Here it is described exactly how it is when one or the other ring is defective. But nothing really applies to my engine. Mind you, both cylinders behave exactly the same. There should be some exceptions. Can someone help me here or does someone know if you can test these sealing rings? Many thanks to greeting Robert