Category: Suzuki Motorrad Forum

Hello, Suzifriends! Since May of this year I have been the owner of a GSX 1100 E, Bauj. 87. The machine now has a driving performance of 60 000 km and is in good condition. However, I have a problem: when the gas goes down, at approx. 80 km/h, very strong steering vibrations are detected. Free-hand driving is not possible – there is a constant feeling of uncertainty, which was never the case with other motorcycles. And at high speeds in long-drawn cure The machine swings up and there are dangerous situations. To meet this, new steering head bearings were installed, re-tired and balanced and looked after on track of front and rear wheel. The problem persists. Now I would like to know if this is a known lack and how to meet it.

Since I have more and more questions about a GSF600 bandit that I’m just finishing, I thought I’d just open a collection thread here and shoot my question in here quickly and uncomplicatedly. Some questions may be a bit stupid, but these are “phenomenons” that I didn’t know about my Kawas and Suzuki. So let’s go. 1) The little one has about 11000km on it, since she has stood for a long time, I’ll take the valves with me. But I was irritated when I took off the right engine cover to get to the OT indicator, the oil ran counter to me. Is this normal with the bandit .. with my RF everything is dry under it. 2) What is the technical function of the vacuum “poti” on the carburetor? 3) Are parts of the 1200, same era, interchangeable with each other? Especially the tank or covering parts. 4) What exactly is the part with the 4 hoses? Is that the so-called pair system? (picture 2) 5) Are these original Suzuki crash pads? Were the original ones? Do others fit? (picture1) That’s it for now. Bandit will surely ask you the next thing I come with the project. Thank you

Career: * HU September 2015 new (including the tires cost a lot) * In October the engine was driven a few kilometers, then wintered * Battery was removed, but still dead. New purchased and installed * Idle in place (problem noted) and started -> after 2 seconds the engine ran clean and round. * Liquid level in the balance tank for the clutch (as well as for the brake) in order, check with small flashlight.But the clutch can no longer be separated. It is difficult to check the liquid in the container (after repeated attempts it had pressed the diaphragm onto the glass). So opened -> liquid probably “pumped away” by me. Some refilled, further tried -> no change. Possibility 1: I have now pumped air into the pipe. Therefore, only air helps. Could I still try. But then where did the liquid move over the winter? That’s why I come to to … Possibility 2: Since the liquid level was still ok in autumn 2015 -> is known whether the liquid can also leak out at the dealer’s clutch (seat defective, etc.)? Or does anyone else have an idea as … Possibility 3: ? I would not like to continue to “pump” and pump brake fluid into the engine… Greetings, Martin

Hello everybody, I would like to make an oil change soon on a GN 125 and have now informed me a little bit about it. My question is if a forum member can upload photos here. So where are the appropriate screws for example. I don’t have the machine right now, so I can’t look, but I want to be prepared when I get to it on Saturday. A little something to the background: I don’t have the machine for long. It drives but great and runs from the 110 things. The speedometer shows 32tkm. The only drawback: the idle is almost not to get in. Now I tried to read a little cleverly: It must probably 10W40 mineral oil for gearbox and motor (only one oil circuit for both?!) in and you have the possibility to open 2 screws, whereby one probably falls against one with an idle pin with a spring. The spirits in the net argue whether both screws are necessary at all (if yes, with which Some say that air can draw after it and that the lowest point is certainly emptied. I can’t understand it without photos and without a motorcycle of course. Since the idle is really impossible and I fear a mistake by the previous owner during the last oil change, I would like to check the correct seat and installation of the pin or bolt and spring myself, if the parts are still there and not with the last oil change has been lost. I would then, according to the attached sketch (part 22) lead the mushroom-shaped pen with the round cone first into the opening and put the spring (part 19) on the flat plate, turn the screw (part 25) in the end. Should then be correct, right? I found the photo of the parts on the internet, but on it the pin / bolt seems to lie wrong around to the pen. If someone knows about it and/or uploads photos thanks already for the support! 😉 I’m more of a beginner with something like that and I haven’t done an oil change on my Corsa B, so I didn’t do it on the 125. A nice week, Dominic PS. I drove a few kilometers on my motorcycle yesterday. It’s fun for such a small machine.

Moin Are there such benchmarks at which temperatures you should drive which speeds? Example: I wanted to overtake a truck today. The oil had on the temperature indicator at the filler just under 60°. But I had to turn a little higher in order to pass quickly. So I turned up to almost 9000U/min. Someone once told me that you should pay attention to the temperature. Do you have such benchmarks?

Hello, I bought a used bandit 600 where I have to steer a little to the right when driving straight. It falls easily into a left curve and hard into a right curve. At slanting position it is nervous. I used the light slot sample with a ruler on the stand pipes in the built-in condition and the stand pipes do not seem to be bent. I want to loosen the screws of the fork bridges now and reposition the front wheel. Can the motorcycle pull down the fork when I release the screws ? Where is it measured whether the track of the front wheel is correct ? Thank you

Good morning love community I drive a V Strom Dl650, built in 2007 with about 55tkm. It stood 1.5 years relatively much, I drove when it came up only 2,000km in time. I had it standing in the garden on the house wall and covered. Anyway I wanted to start it and it sounds like the starter is very sluggish and has trouble turning. If it is then over the “dead point” there is a loud metallic blow, instead of that the engine starts. 2 weeks ago had I did that too, but then she jumped on. I drove half a day and so far everything went. Now I wanted to throw them up and take them to the workshop. However, this is so loud that I hardly dare to try again. Such a crap. Does anyone have an idea what’s going on? Best regards, Heribert40k

Hello together, I wanted to ask if you can dare to buy a Hayabusa with a relatively high mileage! With a high mileage I mean 50,000km vll. even 60,000km. I know it also depends on how it was driven!But what else does it look like with the Hayabusa with the durability? The engine is not very small with 1300ccm and therefore I could imagine, with good maintenance it would have to live for a long time?! Mfg BB

Hello, I’m addressing you, because I don’t know any more, I’ve read a lot of the last few days and I’ve been making my way to Susi, but I don’t get a green branch, so I’m asking for your help. I brought a Susi with 72000 km as a beginner, Mopped for my wife, and since then I’ve only had problems. The problem picture looks like this: Smells strongly after petrol in the stand and runs from Starter always hangs at the first start of the day. t with normal stand gas simply off and can then only be started again hard or only after cooling off, with high stand gas (approx. 4000 tours) it does not go out. I am used to other machines, but I would say you drive well and run round, so in the area no complaints. The most important point is that it loses gasoline, I have now tried it first. I have expanded the whole carburettor, I have determined that the two right completely under Spri I have now dismantled all the parts and cleaned them by hand and compressed air. I have looked at the membrane and cannot detect any damage or cracks. The needles all look the same, no bent or any wear, as far as I can say. I removed the floats and blown them in as well as possible, these also seem to be close to the overflow. Only the seals on the float, there were two O-rings, which I changed, because they were old very tight. It’s not as bad as it was before the carburettor was dismantled, but who knows, yesterday it’s only after about 12 hours that a puddle was under the mopped. If someone still has ideas, I like to try it further, because a repair in the workshop is not really worth it with the device. With spare parts it looks probably not so good, I can not find the float e.g. in the net, the So far, for me, the only place I still think is an uncertainty factor, because I can’t assess whether it’s so dense that no fuel can get through.

Hello dear biker friends, I am new here in the forum and would like to introduce myself once here with you. I am the Nevzat come from the Frankfurt area and belong for a year to the motorcyclists. I have already three years my motorcycle driver’s license and drive but after many quarrels with my wife only for a year motorcycle. My first machine was a Yamaha r6 which I bought without knowing that you had a motor damage, after a letter from my lawyer ha So I bought the next best motorcycle I found. And that was just a beautiful Suzuki Sv 650 N from a dealer from the area. I drove with my Suzi for a year about 7500 km without any problems or incidents. Until I met with a few of my boys to drive. That was about six weeks ago, June 4th, the weather was on our side, was even a bit too hot to drive a motorcycle. Until we started driving. We had a few Redbulls at the gas station. We did not drive as long as 30 min. when I was a little too fast in a 270° curve. I was already on the ground with my knee and about 70 km/h fast when I realized that it was going to be nothing. I got off the road and crashed. I was lucky that there were no obstacles in the way. Except for a traffic sign which was torn down by my Suzi. When I fell I broke my right collarbone. I ha I did not have the Suzi insert to sell it. However, I didn’t have a single call until today. That’s why it’s time to get the Suzi back in shape. I don’t know the technique from my motorcycle. Nevertheless, I would like to do it myself, because I just get to know my hobby better and understand the technique better. The Suzi is from the year 2005 and has about 30000 Km on the clock The faults I know are: – Headlights and all brackets are scrap – Cooler is torn off and bent – Right foot brake and rest broken – Tank has a large dent (disturbed but not so) – Exhaust has only a few scratches (disturbed me just as little) 2. How to set up a chain and decommission battery in winter is in my opinion a little too little knowledge. I didn’t know if the frame or fork or anything was drawn? I sat on it yesterday and let myself be pushed on. I noticed that the motorcycle drives slightly to the left when I hold the handlebar straight. Can it be that after such a fall the frame or the fork is warped? 3. Buell Conversion I’ve already seen some pictures in the net and read through many forums. I find such a Buell conversion quite awesome, and there with my Suzi the headlights and all mounts Sch But how do I do the windshield on it? I haven’t found anything on the net yet, even though I have already read through some pages. And what about the Tüv? Will the uncle have a problem with the Tüv? Sooo that’s it for now, I don’t have another question at this late hour.