Category: Suzuki Motorrad Forum

First of all, good evening together, at my Suzi(GSX600F AJ)/BJ. 2002 the carburetor was cleaned in the ultrasonic bath because I had rust in the tank. I then covered the tank from inside and bought petrol filter and petrol tap. I got a tank filling far. The mashies ran great the short time. Next day they did not jump on (fortunately in front of the door). Then the carburetor went back to the mechanic of my trust, where he lay for several hours in the ultrasonic bath and I buy a new tank and a new petrol filter. I cleaned the petrol tap thoroughly. Now I have the problem that the Suzi starts super and runs great in cold condition. But in warm condition permanently runs at 3000 rpm. When I drive the maschiene super pulls off. It doesn’t swallow either. Can this be done with a synchronization or should it only be due to a adjusting screw on the carburettor? Thank you for your tips your 82er Daimler

Hello Froinde, please forgive me for this question, but I would like to call on the “Schwarm Intelligence” of this forum. I’ve been busy with this topic for a few months already, I’ve already annoyed various e..y dealers with questions of measure and there’s nothing vocal about it up to now. I’ve also addressed the one or the other of you in concrete terms. Please don’t scold me, I just don’t come to a result. It’s about the following: a four-cylinder engine with injection As far as nothing special but 1. the intake channel diameters are relatively small for motorcycle conditions and round and 2. the connection to the cylinder head is horizontal and I would also like to end horizontally with the air filter. There are two possibilities: – throttle valve and injection nozzle in one unit – throttle valve and injection nozzle in two units directly above each other or with any offset (main thing the distances a and b are parallel) Nachf I would like to draw a sketch with what I mean: a = 29 to max 33mm circular b = 32 to max 36mm c = smaller 40mm example: there would be a nice throttle valve unit from the (Yamaha) GTS 1000. However, the suction nozzles are angular to the cylinder head. Those of the T-Max 500 would fit, but are round but the suction nozzle is tilted by a few degrees. I would like to think about (in single throttles) throttle valves or injection units or suction nozzles. euen … Thanks for reading Phulc

Good evening for the first time. I bought a nice Bandit 600 S built in 2001. However, not yet driven. I guess it won’t be allowed until February or March. Now that makes little sense. Unfortunately, there is no manual to read me in. Can someone help out there? Otherwise – are there still a few 600 riders active here in the forum? Or is that an oldie? I would be happy about some experiences or tips. Greeting from Augsburg Rainer

Hello dear ones! I’m new to this forum (Please forgive me if I’m doing something wrong here ) I have a problem, or a question that I hope you can help me: This year I bought my first motorcycle, a Suzuki GSX 750 F. The machine has been on the hump for several years (BJ 96), but that doesn’t bother me. Unfortunately, I only got one key from the seller. The second one is probably lost. Only my buddy noticed. But it works without problems. (I added a picture to illustrate) But since I have concerns about just one defective key, I went to search for blanks. I was told that it’s not a problem… The machine, however, has an immobilizer and the key service gave me the information that he can already get the blanks, the mas Now I am an absolute layman for something like that… Does a 20-year old machine actually have an electronic immobilizer? Does the machine really not run if I don’t clean the WSP and leave the lock on “off”? And where do I get a spare key? I hate to have all the locks replaced. Can someone help me? Thank you in advance and everyone n a good ride Steffi

Hello together! I made my A2 appearance in 2016 (previously with 16 mopped, am now 28) and unfortunately did not come to buy and ride a bike so far ?? Shame on my head. Got me clothes and n helmet now and looked around for appropriate machinettes. Will also ride in everyday life and not typical seasonal. Many information on the net point out that the GS 500 E is a very beginner-friendly bike. Probably also very maintenance-friendly and it can not vie I found one near me and wanted to hear your opinion about it. What do I have to pay attention to despite the ease of maintenance? Sure chain/ritzel, tires, liquids, brakes, etc. But any known weaknesses? Didn’t want to spend much for the beginning to get back into driving life. Later on it should become a pretty Else. But that would be too bad for me for the beginning. Would I be very pleased about your opinions. At the link to the bike: https://search.mo bile.de/vehicles/details.html?id=284831672 VG trekki

Moin, I’ve been having problems starting with my DR for quite some time now. When I operate the starter the starter orgelts. The motorcycle doesn’t start MEISSENS. With NEW and charged battery and freshly drained and newly leaked fuel I can be lucky that it comes. Most of the time, however, it stays with the orgling. Every battery seems to have problems. Discharges itself quickly. Powers out quickly. I always leave old fuel ais the carburetor after service times. I think that you should do it with this single cylinder but I got the tip once. At least it starts better than if I don’t. By the way, the battery always has a voltage of 13,4 V. So it’s really steam. It’s new. The previous ones were also new. I’ve already checked the bike for creeping consumers. Nada. It doesn’t drain at night or anything. I refueled it. I recharged the battery every time. What’s up? When the starter is turned, the mass cable is constantly getting super hot. After some time. I tried it with a lot and times with little choke. When I bridge the battery with the start cable to my car, the motorcycle works better. Otherwise really bad. It seems that it has to crank for the first time 700000 until it reaches. My motorcycle battery usually does not achieve this stamina. I also don’t have to get a new battery again. That’s not what it is. a with no matter which battery problems to have the starter strong enough and long enough to turn (deco possibly responsible?!) or it is due to the flammable mixture… carburetor problems…? Is it possibly the starter relay? Can the starter be smeared and difficult to run? Is the ignition spark full! Only to take this in advance. Unfortunately I have NO manual for the motorcycle. Can one adjust the decoration somehow? Are there values? Which factory setting should be selected with the mix screw I have 4 fuses in it.. They were all not original…. They have the following values now when I look at it from above…. 20 10 20 10 Is the occupation so correct? Where can the error be? Many info.. Damot you have to ask less. Maybe someone has an idea. Greetings Nils

Hello.. to me today is the following, my suzuki drove quite empty, so she already jerked. Then I put the bezin tap on reserve, and could still save me to the gas station. And there it happened, when I opened the cock again (PRI) ran only full pulle gasoline out of the overflow of the carburetor (actually from both, but more from the left)!!! And she didn’t jump any more!!! When I turned out the gas cock again it stopped running and she jumped even more I was able to drive three meters and then she went out again! Then I put Hahn on Pri again and there was a lot of gas running out again, as if it had run right through the tank! Then the battery was empty and had to push her home.. Then I once turned the screw up at home from both carburetor chambers and let everything run out.They were totally full. Then put the tap down, otherwise would probably be the whole T Now I would like a tip, please, so that I can get it back in the morning!!!!!! Thanks greeting P.s must be the gas tap now actually on Pri or ON, I already read the PRI carburetor means flood, that means it is quite normal the fuel comes out of the overflow or? But why does it not run at ON position, had the feeling that the gets no sprite.

Hello together I have a problem with my GSXR K8. I’ve been losing cooling water for a few days. I noticed it about a week ago. The temperature rose at a traffic light to 120 degrees! Then I went straight home and there was no cooling water in the cooler. I then filled up and drove again the day after. The temperature was normal. 80-90 degrees. In the stand up to 104-106 and the fan went on and cooled to 90-95. At home then drips directly after the parking. It’s out of the overflow at the balance tank. Cooler almost empty. Container full. I did it 2 times. Filled up and drove about 100km with a break at 50km. At the break everything was dry every time! It drips at home in the garage. Direct. What can that be? I think of head seal first. But somehow it doesn’t want me in the head. The balance tank is brimful while the cooler has almost nothing more in it. The container should be pulled with empty?! I have no loss of performance. No foam in the oil. No white smoke / water from the exhaust. Does this really fit to the seal?? I have read something from the cooler cover, because it is responsible for vacuum etc. I ordered it already, but wait for it. Could it be that? What else could it be? Air in the circuit? As far as I know, you don’t have to vent the machine extra. Is that true? I filled the cooler by filling it up and then the mopped on the left and I was able to tip a good 150ml after that. Can it still be in the air? What else is left? If it is the head gasket, can someone explain to me why the balance tank is still completely full? I just don’t understand that.

Hello together, now that it will be dark so early more and more ask for the next season. My front tire is from 2013 , back 2016 Think to me that it can’t hurt to replace the front tire. Because I think that’s a little too hard. What opinion do you have about it.

Moin dear biker! I play with the idea of equipping my Gixxer K9 with a tank bag and a rear bag. Although I was already at Louis and Polo, I also did not find it despite advice with rear bags. With a tank bag I would choose a variant with tank ring. We tried different rear bags, which they had in stock, but either it simply did not fit at all, you could not really attach the bags, or the clamping belts covered the he Blinker…at Polo it was then that they had a bigger choice online, I should just order different rear pockets online and have them delivered to the store, then we would see if one fits and send the rest back. However, I lack the desire to try it around forever now. Therefore I turn to you! Which tank bags and rear pockets do you use with your Gixxer or did you use when you once had a Gixxer? What experiences do you have with certain n brands made or what can you recommend? No 50 liters must fit in now but bigger than these mini parts with a size of 2 to 5 liters should be. The circumference should be 10 to 15, a maximum of 20 liters each for tank backpack and rear bag. I know it’s always such a thing to make a super sportsman fit for travel