Category: Suzuki Motorrad Forum

Hello, when I started my Suzuki GSX 750 ES year 1983 was drunk and after that it didn’t jump any more. When the starter was pressed, it was very quiet, only a quiet buzz was heard. The rev indicator showed fluctuating values, sometimes it shrugged around at 1000 rpm and sometimes it went up to 7000 rpm. But the engine didn’t spin with it. When the gear was in place, the same game. Sometimes, however, it shrugged forward briefly. I then tried to push it, i.e. ignition, pushing off running. and then let the first gear come. didn’t work Only when I pressed the starter at the same time, it worked and the engine jumped on. When pushing on the car, you just have to have the ignition on, but don’t press the starter, is that different with the motorcycle? And what happened now? Did the starter slip out and don’t turn the engine any more? Why did the rev indicator show high revs? Where is the sensor sitting? Greetings

Hello! I’m an Italian (35 years old) and I got my A2 driver’s license in Italy 13 years ago. Unfortunately, I only took the test with an automatic 250-hub scooter. That’s why my A2 driver’s license has a “78” restriction. In Italy it means that I can only drive scooters and motorcycles without manual switches. However, it is unclear to me whether this is a restriction or not in Germany. I did a lot of research, but I didn’t find anything clearly. e now found several beautiful Suzuki GN250 or 125 to buy, but I have no idea if I can drive them in Germany with my driver’s license. What do you think? Is the “78” restriction in Germany a thing? Thank you!

Hello, I hope one of you can help me. I had a breakdown with my boob on the weekend and that was that the oil draining screw went to me and I lost all the oil, when I stood on the stand strip still ran out about n liters of oil, had also run out immediately when I pulled the clutch. I turned in a new screw and filled up oil and tried to start it again but no chance, but he did not sit totally tight but has still cumbersomely worried Now I have no choice but to disassemble the engine and hope that the crankshaft bearings are in my ass. Now my question, someone has already had similar experiences with the disassembly of the engine and has possibly also an explosion drawing of the engine, which he could send me. That would be great, of course, I hope that the cylinders and pistons do not I’d be happy to hear about answers and tips.

Hello, I changed my brake lines only in spring (on Stahlfelx). I also well ventilated and tested one of my brake fluid, which was already standing in the container. Now I have the problem that my brake starts to pulsate there and there. It feels like the ABS is starting to work, but you don’t hear it work. Hand brake levers, but also the foot brake move up and down for perhaps 1-2 seconds, just like the ABS. Luckily only happened to me so far, even if the engine was off but the ignition was still on. Got me an ABS-mode switch and read out a mistake that the rear ABS sensor is dirty or defective. He was also dirty… but it still came back. Maybe someone already had a similar problem? I’m really not sure if it’s really the sensor or not a hydraulic problem, because that always comes in. For every Hil I would be very grateful. LG Rapi

Tach together, After standing longer (about half a year) I removed and charged my battery these days. Just installed and pushed to the door to start the old times, ignition key turned, Christmas tree normal, starter actuated, Christmas tree off. My first reaction was to check the fuse, which is ok. Second thought short circuit in the system, so I removed the battery again and packed it to the charger, and see there, battery empty. Do you have an idea or guess where I’ve spent a whole Saturday finding an electronic error and don’t try to repeat it. Thank you very much for all the approaches Benni

Hello, my GR650 is only running on one cylinder. I checked the following: 1. Ignition spark is there, so first the candle changed –> no change 2. Candle plug incl. ignition cable and ignition coil changed from left to right –> no change 3. Ignition box replaced by one that works 100% –> no change 4. Wiring of ignition box to coil checked for passage –> everything fits 5. Resistance of impulse coils tested –> everything in the green area Now you might think it’s mu ss lying on the carburettor –> BUT: 6. which has been completely disassembled and thoroughly cleaned (ultrasound bath) Now comes the curious part of the story… If I pull off the candle plug and only touch the candle with the lower rubber sheath of the plug, the second cylinder will enter! I’m finished with my Latin… Does anyone have any idea what could cause it or what I can still test? Tomorrow I will test the rectifier. I heard that if the ignition is broken, I am grateful for every tip! Greetings, Sebastian

I ask from a pure interest. I ask you not to have to read “buy another moped”, I hear that too much. I have a GZ125 of 98, all my pride, I am optically but not necessarily a fan of the slanting high outpuff. I had also once organized a GN125 exhaust for the bender, if I should find a sound damper the legal on it.. but did not find it myself. As far as I know there are no exhaust systems for the GZ125 marauders, the legal i There are sports exhaust systems such as sand on the sea, also for the VZ800 Marauder there are systems.. but nothing for the GZ125. Are there any options? Are there not ways to have special silencers made? Or are there ways to make another exhaust legal with examination? Thanks in advance for the answers!

At the moment I still have problems with the cylinder head of my GZ125. After much back and forth I have to leave the head installed this season, but does not want to expose my many tours. At the same time, this extreme clacking is very annoying.. Now I have asked myself: could you dampen the noise of the engine, especially of the cylinder head, with a thicker oil? And with this possible problems better save? After a.. in case the engine ran already for a year to 10W5 0, and that, with regard to its problems, quite well My engine uses normal 10W40, currently the engine is running on Castrol 4T 10W40 motorcycle oil. The option would therefore now be to mix the oil either with 10W50, or completely replace it. How effective would such a thing be? Or would I be advised not to?

tag people would like to know what my gsx 550 e is still worth, sale price, lover value. ez.1987, new papers according to eidesstatt, paragraphüv or as it is called. just under 60 000km, a sturts in the first course. mature new, brake lines new steelflex manufacturer “probrake”, wheel brake cylinder new, brake blocks new, brake hand pumps rep. set new, fine drilling drilled on 1mm, oil tank seal new, oil+ filter new, cylinder foot seal + o rings new, valve shaft seals new, cop gasket new , curvature seals new . engine was opened because of remaining ” , diagnosis : piston bolts , piston shirt , cylinders have traces of wear , cylinder 2 a piston ring new , valves have play in the guides , a valve cone has been remilled , all valves have regrinded , compaction previously 5 to 7 bar after grinding the valves , 1 good 9 bar , 2 8bar , 3 10 bar and 4 at approx. 8.5 bar. engine run again , must be adjusted , current cost only at parts n about 1000€ I hope not to forget, details without guarantee.

Moin. I have a 650 bandit from 2012. As I noticed, 03/2016 (just under 7500 km) the last proper maintenance was done. The rear liquid has already been changed, because the container was not in order. So I would like to change the brake fluid in front. I need DOT4 brake fluid; that’s clear. Is it enough 1 litre? What kind of hose do I need to push it safely onto the ventilation nipple? Do you have something specific? How do you do this with the right torque to close the nipple permanently again? What else do I have to pay attention to?