Category: Suzuki Motorrad Forum

Hey in the round, I got an old Suzuki for the transition 3 days ago until I can drive my big one. She now has 71000km down. Mechnaically she sounds good. However, she has a small problem. In idle and under partial load and full load she runs in the lower speed range top. As soon as the speed goes over 5500 rpm, there are ignition oscillators. I would say load independent. I could not turn it up until now during the ride over 7000 rpm, before there is massive ignition In addition there are exhaust patches in thrust operation, at the beginning I thought, standart Magerpatschen. However, if I give full speed over 5000 rpm again the thrust breaks come. If I pull the Chocke now at full load and at high speeds (if they would run to lean, these triggers would have to stop, because there is enough gasoline there) the whole situation worsens and the motorcycle refuses the service until the speeds have fallen again. ke good. Spark plug says from behind the motorcycle standing on the right cylinder rather fatter mixed than left. Overall quite good candle picture. What I have done so far: 1. Carburettor cleaned in the ultrasonic bath but without installing new nozzles. I have left everything as it is. I noticed that the main nozzle is a 120er. In the repair kit, which I bought, there are once 87,5 and 117,5. https://www.ebay.de/itm/183526211000 I have k should be the right one, right? 2.valve test that was right 3. camshaft has the number 44210 (possibly the one from the 41ps version? ) I got another engine to the motorcycle. In the carburetor were also 120 nozzles. What could this problem be? Should I check the ignition? Spark is there, on both sides. Crammers heat up at the same time. The right cracker is a bit leaky on the flange. I personally would say that the cart is running on top of it. u fat. What do you mean? I’m a bit perplexed. I hope in secret, that the main nozzle is simply too large. Does anyone have the data, which nozzles of plant are installed in the carburettor? The carburettor should be a Mikuni Bs 34. Or a tip, what I could still check? Thank you

Hei ihr am new in the forum and have found nothing comparable, only reports of either a k3/4 driver or a k5/6 driver. My problem: I would like to get a Gsx r 1000, may be a little older, because I don’t want to spend more than 600€ if possible (at least not for such an old year of construction) . From the optics I find the k3/4 more appealing than the k5/6, already because of the blinkers in the mirrors etc. Can only not both sample fa Since I don’t know anyone who owns such a thing and the next dealers aren’t exactly around the corner. I haven’t found a report yet, in which someone from first hand drove both models once k3/4 and then k5/6 and compared this well in terms of handling, everyday suitability, long distance etc. … Now to my question: Is the series k5/6 really so much more handy and easier to move in Welchselkuven than the older ones? Which is less problem at due with good care? Both of them seem to be top. Which one is softer from the gas acceptance or do they not give themselves much? I would also like to drive in high gear at a little lower speed and then accelerate out without having to switch down 2 gears, therefore also the decision to buy a 1000 and not a 600. What would you advise me to do, rather the older or the newer ones? I know both are quite old, but I think you know what I mean. Maybe there is someone here I think the 160 ps of the older ones are enough, because I’m only on the country road and maybe to have done it once and for fun to visit the ring. So it’s not about the final performance as much as possible to have. An offer of a K3 with 19.700 km with service, Hu / Au new, as well as mature for 3999 euros … which makes me a bit stunned that it has 4 previous owners. The reviews of the dealer But this is 1A and he thinks he got it from a buddy. And it’s an import vehicle from Switzerland. That makes me a bit nervous. If someone has a hint, which I should be looking at when buying, I would also be very grateful. If there is a thread this way, I’m sorry. Then a link would not be bad. MfG and always good ride I wish N

Hello, I’m getting out a little longer now to hopefully make all the factors known. Since December I have a GSF 650 BJ 2006 with approx. 65,000km. Complete service from Suzuki was made shortly before the sale. A few weeks later I unfortunately dropped off and since then the machine ran only round and wanted no speeds over approx. 5500 bars. Speaking at 100km/h was over, uphill also earlier. Higher speeds could not be reached in the higher gears, which was also expressed by stuttering. I then removed the carburettor all small components that can be removed in the ultrasonic bath cleaned the carburettor itself also clean, whereby there were no strong dirt there. The carburettor was not resynchronized. The bandit went better but not great afterwards, so about 120 km/h were inside. With carburettor cleaner it was then again better so the approx. 160km/h was possible. d the engine refuses to produce more power. If I want to pass through the 2nd gear until about 12000 it goes well up to 7500 then it stutters something and if then 8000 revolutions are broken through it also runs quite well up to 10/12000. What is added is that the bandit behaves differently every day regardless of the weather or the tank filling. Sometimes only 110km/h, sometimes 130km/h and sometimes again 160km/h, however faster does not. I unfortunately personally do not know at the moment and I don’t want to hire a workshop to troubleshoot for cost reasons either. Maybe one of you has had similar experiences.

Hello together, I have already used the search function but unfortunately found nothing or found nothing that helped.. My SV650 S K3 Bj. 2003 doesn’t make a sound since yesterday. It doesn’t light up when turning the zund key and accordingly nothing turns on during the start attempt, although a second before everything went perfectly and I drove 10 minutes before the highway. I wanted to push you away and had the ignition really only for a second and at once went no The following things I checked: -Battery is full and in good condition (Gelbattery). It could not be started by others either. -Secures all in good condition -Contacts are also all in order -Killswitch is of course from What might still be relevant: I had a mass error a month ago after the laundry (Blinker indicator for the right turn signal when releasing the clutch lit continuously – while pulling the clutch lever everything was nor Once I hit the tacho with the water jet), but after the water was evaporated, everything worked perfectly again. I hope someone can help me. Thank you already in advance for all the answers! Best regards from Munich Mickey

Hello guys….who has a advice.!!!.GSX R 750 W..after cylinder head seal change has completely narrowed down the valve play…think have committed some montage error….. I have all numbered the cup keys in bags inclusive the Shims ……after renewing the cylinder head seal the cylinder head again completes…Shims and the cup studs again on your old place… camshafts built in…Control times exactly ..chain tensioner in..click Click…… .with a few times in driving direction until OT turned again and the corresponding valve inlet outlet tested…….whether inlet or outlet everywhere too tight! outlet all about 0.08 mm and inlet also no longer 0.06 about………. should have inlet between 0.10 and 0.20 mm and outlet between 0.20 and 0.30 mm…but you know that….only I wonder…what did I do wrong! …oil between the Shims?…that would have to be pressed out at a few revolutions… according to the manual…… .!?!

Moin Moin, I bought a Bandit 1200 K1 for my better half a week ago. Test drive and drive home (about 10km) ran smoothly. Today I did the first big test drive after some smaller work. After about 40km the big one woke up. The clutch came always later until it started to slide and finally did not pack anymore. After longer cursing and looking (about 20 minutes) the pressure point came back slowly and I could get home I arrived at the garage. 1 hour later everything seemed to be normal again. Pressure point as usual. However, I didn’t want to trust the moped any more. Running power approx. 32000km, oil change 07/18 Can anyone help me with my problem?

Good day. I have the following problem with my GSX600F (built in 1994): I bought the machine cheaply and in a way (I mean that a replacement engine was installed) and was still very satisfied with the machine until recently. It cost me a few weeks to get the machine on the front, but it looked quite good until the engine didn’t want to start. However, I also got this problem fixed. I always have the spark plugs a Then the big day before the tuv came. I threw myself on the machine and after 2min it came to the unfortunate slipper on my property… 16 meters slips, engine went off and it was amazingly all right. Except for a few smaller scratches on my side and a relatively taken side panel. However, the machine then did not want to start for the rest of the day… also the next one. One hears how the starter gives everything, but only 1-2 cylinders make up. TÜV therefore fails. A few days later I transferred the motorcycle to another garage with the help of a trailer. Also there the motorcycle did nothing. The next day I tried it again and voila, the engine ran. Although a little rough but otherwise as it should. The next day, however, everything was like after the fall… the starter yaws and one to two Cylinders try it every now and then but that’s it. I’ve taken out the spark plugs several times, emptied the carburetors vie Benzihnhahn and after some time again Verbaut however everything does not help. The battery was always full (acid battery). Does someone already have similar experiences or an idea what it might be about? After weeks of despair I really annoyed and refuse to go to the mechanic because I’m very motivated now what screws used eht. However, I am just reaching the limits of my still very limited abilities… I thank you already in the Vorras…

Hello, I’m new here hot Hannes and I’m 20 years old. Now to my problem where I just don’t know any more. I’ve been driving a Suzuki Bandit 400 with 34 hp with about 15000km. So far so good, it really ran perfectly over 1000km. Always stood up to 5 days dry in a garage. Suddenly, when I wanted to drive after a week, you didn’t jump any more. The starter spins and turns… 2 batteries I completely charged and torpedoed.. Nix.. With Choke/without Choke, with gas without gas tried, everything was brought nothing. One could always hear a quiet, “grumble” from the exhaust, as if she wants to come, but it does nothing. Then all spark plugs out and nailed, so that possibly fuel flies, brand new spark plugs in, however the same as before only that there were even a few false ignitions in the form of loud banging out of the exhaust. Ignition spark is there on all four plugs, candles are also wet after the orgling, so also fuel arrives. Air filter is also fine. According to the dealer, carburettor has enjoyed an ultrasonic bath, which is also plausible due to the perfect and quiet running properties. I really don’t know any more, hope that someone may know about it and can help me. Especially the sudden no longer start without what I did is funny. Thank you in advance

Hello together I recently stretched out the chain of my bandit and after 1km driving I noticed a “ratting/knocking” sound from the pinion housing, which was definitely not there before. I immediately reversed and found out back in the garage that the chain was too tense. The chain has 24k km on it and is unequally hung. I probably did not take the narrowest place when spanning. Otherwise I kept myself to the workshop manual (20-30mm hanger on main stand The problem is that this noise doesn’t go away anymore, although I have made the chain looser and the crossover is now adjusted correctly at the narrowest point. What does that mean now? I’m worried that I might have damaged the transmission outlet bearing on the 2km drive, because the noise is still there even if the chain tension is correct. One reads again and again that this is not possible. But can it also be simply because of the old chain that the ride with too much tension has given her the rest? According to the manual the chain has to be replaced at 31.94cm distance between 21 rivets. I measured earlier over the whole chain circumference and the distance scratches at one place at 32cm, but otherwise lies at 31.8cm. Since I have only been riding a motorcycle since last year, I can not estimate how strong the wear is now. sounds really troubling and I’m not sure if I should drive at all in order not to break any more. Maybe you can give me a rough estimate whether it’s just the chain or the bearing. I uploaded a video of the noise for it. In the video I shoot my hand on the rear wheel and hold the camera on the pinion housing. Thank you and lg

Hello. I’m new here and unfortunately I found nothing on the subject. First information about my motorcycle It has run a Suzuki gsx 650 f built in 2008 22000km. Do not banish everything original except the turn signals and handles. Now to my problem. The machine runs so well. Jumps immediately. No side noises or similar. Unfortunately, she has the problem when she has driven warm she has a strange mute in the 5th and 6th gear. In these gears at a speed of 4000 to 5000 . I go off the gas it goes as strongly into the engine brake as if you turned the key and it turned out. When I give it back gas it rises so hard that the real blows are transferred to the chain. But that only at 4000 to 5000 revolutions and only in 5 and 6 gears. In the cold state everything is ok. Only when it gets warm it starts. Was already in a motorcycle workshop and my cynd candles and air filters. Has it also changed. Mistakes is still there. Can often j help us out?