Category: Suzuki Motorrad Forum

Hello dear forum I would need the concentrated brain power and logic of you So short to the history I took over my Susi yesterday she didn’t break the ignition lock So short-hand ignition lock snapped off and wanted to bridge it OK so far as well she’s nailed spark plugs out they were wet Short times against mass and there was the problem ignition spark only comes when I keep it a little off the frame then a spark beats over but to the body but not between the n Diodes OK thought once new candles pure the same game I’m just really a little helpless Hope you can help me and thank me already in advance

Hello! I have to change to a GSX1400 in the near future (this or at the latest next year). I have already informed myself a little bit about the part. As I have noticed now there are always changes between the different years of construction. Can someone tell me where I can get informations about the different models (best on one side as comparison or so) the part is also built. Only on the HP of Suzuki Germany is built. Is it sold in D as a new car at all? But I would like a used car if it is just as nice as I imagine it. I will also visit the dealer this evening. I think, however, he will want to sell me a new 1200 bandit. That’s why I would like to have some information about the GSX1400 before. Thanks in advance! Greetings Oli

Hi Mens, I have the following problem. My Trude (US model, Bj 96) no longer has a spark of ignition. I was still at work in May, after that she stood for 5 months and now nothing works. Even with starter help (though my battery is scrap) nothing works. The starter spins and after a few seconds orgling it smells like fuel and the candles are wet. I don’t know any more advice. Before commissioning in May I had to weld the tank fixture. Battery and control unit were off You know what? Would you be very grateful for your swarm knowledge ??

Good evening, I am currently looking for a new motorcycle for the coming years. I like the Suzuki SV 650 very well from 2016, but my budget is only 3000€. There are some well-kept ads, but with 50,000km – 55,000km mileage. I worry less about the mileage with good maintenance and maintenance, but the question arises, what such a bike can cost? Greetings

Hello to each other. I have been a proud owner of a 1993 GSXR 750W since a few weeks. Smaller defects, such as rattling steering dampers and similar things have already been fixed. However, the motor running causes me to break my head. The following problem: When I roll through a village in 4th or 5th gear, and then pull it up at the end of the village, it simply does not attract. It starts to mock and spit up to a speed of about 5000 revolutions and sounds like a throttled mofa. BRRRRRRRBRRB RRRRRBRRBRRBR. From 5000 rpm everything is normal… the following was done: spark plugs new air filter new carburettor cleaned, adjusted and synchronized. Half everything nothing. I also set the carburettor to the set value of 1.25 i.e. 1 1/4 revolutions. Man might think that it would run too fat in idle and partial load range… carburettor membranes are perfectly fine. False air doesn’t pull them either. round setting to run fat??? Thank you. MfG.: Matze

Would like some advice. Just a little ahead I am quite a layman. Although I have a good technical understanding but rather in the electronic field. And that’s when I got a bandit GSF600 (with throttle because of A2) a year ago. And at first it went really well and I was very satisfied. Bite on a few “little things” e.g. Is it after a longer standing (from about 2 weeks) quite difficult again or dies again at the same time, If the motorcycle was only a short time off (until about 20 min) she also went a little harder. I didn’t mind that yet. Now, after I got her out of the garage again, the same problem was like last year. Dies after a few seconds. After several attempts she ran and I turned a small lap and I still don’t have the full power even after about 20min drive and the sound of the machine was also a bit dull and not right. What do you think? Workshop or do you have tips for me what I could try? Thanks in advance for the help

Tach together, I’ve been driving since the new 750s Gixxer on which the Michelin Pilot Power are on it. I’ll get along well with them, but there should be better options. That’s why I’d like to hear your experience about the only two mature ones in question, so Conti Sportattak 3 and Metzler M7 rr. What do you think of the two ??? And before anything else comes up, I know everyone has their preferences but these are now the two best options. LG

I need your help. I plan to install a Hayabusa engine in an old Suzuki GSX 1100 F (GV72C) frame. Everything should be made suitable. I am not a beginner when it comes to changes. The TÜV has already signaled approval. Only condition, because of the large power increase, they want a safety certificate that the frame tolerates the force injection. The request at Suzuki as expected left without result because they do not need your help. ts. Could someone call me contact person where I could keep demand. I am thinking of evaluators for SB conversions or similar thanks mopeddriver

I’m new here Hot leon and come from Idar-Oberstein. My father bequeathed to me his 600s bandit (to be honest, I don’t know if cult or pop think pop has lost neither letter nor paper -.-) no matter Wellja she stood in the barn for 9 years and I want to make her run apropos she just doesn’t run like she should. So I’ve been making a few days now. I tested for the first time on the first day if something is fixed in terms of engine. In which I made the 6 gear in she pushed was clear motor not fixed wheel dret though heavy but with it directly a problem with clutch pull no difference noticeable or clutch does not separate. Anja for the first time didn’t matter. I let the 9 year old broth off from the tank as well as swimmer chambers and after 2 battery charges and lots of mosquitoes hurra it ran. But everything else than good. She however sounded naja shit (had everything with pictures and videos … and what do you say about it as if someone had tipped tar into the carburettor when I will soon upload the pictures everyone and really say EVERYONE didn’t run but did everything documented. No matter new needles and everything cleaned up because I also had fuel in the engine room all assembled oil new and now we are closer to today’s stand. By the way, I forgot to say that it remained on but I got to the gas g I didn’t have to think about the choke because it only went out when looking at it. So today I installed the carburettor the clutch I also made the lamellas clean outside were glued to the clutch would pull several lamellas at once I also pulled everything on video. So see that the bitch war starts now after Mucken. BUT THE BLOOD DING WILL IMMERNOTCH NO GAS APPROACH. So I touch the curved ones but only burn my hand 3 times… Cylinders num So if I sit on it left side of the inner is cold ? What could that be ? Well for the first time I don’t think at all give the gas and test the spark plug of cylinder number 2 for the first time … hold it for mass bla bla and it goes … have changed it anyway or changed it 3 times I do not have the spark plug of cylinder number 2 to another

Hello short to the history of the DR 500S: have it been for about 3 years now, it got by chance by 200€, to make were only the forksimmerings, a handguard belonged to exchanged, and front of the hose from the tire, 8000km ran, smaller superficial corrosion damage, otherwise everything ok Have the following problems: the suspension in front seems too soft, helps me if I fill oil with the fork? further I have a sharper brake in front always so quiet cracks, probably of the Steering head bearings are coming, but from the beginning I was already like this, should I try to adjust this or change it immediately? and then there would be the blow from the front of the brake disc, I also had it from the beginning, of course I change it, only I ask myself whether the hub has not been affected, how best to check it? otherwise the new brake disc will soon have a blow again…… Is the problem with the overturning of the wheel What is the ideal solution? Helicoil inserts? At the moment, the lid is sealed (in addition to sealing compound and original seal), and the screws also hold (partly glued in with bolt securing), only if I have to remove the lid again, I have the problem with the overturned screws again…. Then there is still this chain guide roller, because the bearing should be defective, can m Is that what I want to switch to or do I need to change the whole role? MfG