Category: Traktoren & Landmaschinen Forum

Moin, my turret Stiga Villa about 12 years old does not start. If I go with Plus on starter it starts, at the magnet switch also. Ignition lock also ok. 4Pol magnetic switch, there is battery on it, starter and on the other three red cables. 2 from the ignition lock, one red in the motor housing and two yellow. One yellow from the seat contact, the other goes to such a funny circuit board.There are no fuses. I go with mass on the one small pole at magnet switch and on the other In addition to the battery, it also starts. I don’t have a power plan. Know me, but don’t come any further. Safety switches are bridged. At the ignition lock 5 connections, mass, two red to the magnet switch, blue etc. The red cable coming directly from the motor housing to the magnet switch, for which is this ????Take some photos. On the magnet switch coming from the ignition lock, should be voltage or? But there is no juice, it would have to be a plus cable directly from the battery to m Ignition lock go?? This distributor board has also sunk

Moin together, this is my first post, therefore a hello to all I have to mow an approx. 2000sqm large lawn and now look for a lawn tractor to do this quickly and easily. So far I have used a lawn mower. To my ideas: The lawn tractor should have a catch basket and alternatively also include a mulch function. I have looked at several pages of such models. However, since my budget is quite short, I am at the following Ma rken got stuck: Wolf and garden, MTD (Is probably also wolf and garden), Alpina and Husqvana. Although almost all of them are also DIY lawn tractors. The problem is that I have set my budget to max. 2000€. Due to the fact that the lawn tractor should have a catch basket and a mulch function, the selection is also somewhat more restricted. So I actually liked the following model: MTD lawn tractor RN 145 for approx. 1800€, this one has an engine power of 11.6 kW / 15,5 hp and a unit power of 8,9 kW / 12,1 hp. (Mulchsatz costs extra) Alternatively, I have the fast also at the Bauhaus Alpina BT 92B Power with 12,1 hp for less than 1600€, which is also more attractive at the price. (Mulchsatz costs extra) Since both and actually most lawn tractors in this price segment have a “Briggs & Stratton” engine, the quality should be almost identical, right? I would be looking forward to lively answers and am for every tip and hint Thank you

Hello together. For my approx. 500 sqm lawn I plan the purchase of a so-called minirider. Mower robot is unfortunately not possible since the lawn area is divided into two. I looked around on the side Motorland times and I especially fall the models in the price class 1420,– € to 2229,– € into the augu and in the closer selection. Now I have printed out the descriptions and compared each other and find hardly any significant differences. My wishes are: approx. 10 hp motor or more back Mow forward must be possible Hydrostat wash nozzle on the mower deck. Mulching: Can, must not be, since I mow more every 14 days than every 7 days. So quite spontaneously I would say that the Castelgarden would do it for 1420,- for me if he can mow backwards. Would you please write your opinions about it? For many, such a purchase may be Peanuts, for me it still wants to be thought. I know who buys cheaply, buys expensive, also that I want to note, but my lawn area i but still relatively small. A sliding mower is not (more) in question. Thank you for your opinions.

We have here a Porsche AP18. Top speed: 20 km/h Empty weight: 1355Kg permissible maximum weight: 1600Kg. Rear brake. With permissible suspension load unbraked is 675Kg registered. But what applies to braked trailers? Approval-free trailer at the train mouth. Other question: How does it look with the 3-point field rail suspension with a ball head for a normal car trailer, is this allowed? Field rail and ball head is not allowed. Thanks already in advance. 🙂 PS: Many posts I have found are unfortunately already older. or are there very many different opinions. You don’t really look through them.

Hello together, I have a problem with my Husqvarna Rider ProFlex 21. The mower does not switch off when lifting the mower. But should it be. I think that a pole has solved itself here, which I do not see, because I do not know the correct condition or have never taken care of it. My question is whether someone can send me pictures, how the pole is correctly mounted during the mower lift. I believe that only the belt drive from the mower despa or if someone can explain it to me. Thank you very much for your help Greeting Andre

Hello I got a Castelgarden Twin Cut 12,5 102,from a estate. It also starts and mows Tip Top. But unfortunately I don’t have any instructions or anything. Now ask my questions.. What is the seat for the checkpanel? The basket? Both don’t shine. But if I start ignition and press mower “on” and at the back of the switch then it beeps until I turn off the mower, but does not light up.The lever from the switch sits in the tunnel, did not have to go to the basket or wi e is it with you? Also if I have ignition on and I put the seat up, nothing lights up either. Do everyone have to light up if you turn on ignition, like with the car? I hope you can help me. If someone could send me a user manual by mail, don’t find anything on Google.

Hello, my sit-up mower AGS AJ102 from 1998 has a B&S Vanguard 2-cylinder with 18 HP. Type is 350777-1034-A1. It runs well. Actually. I have the impression, however, that it does not reach its maximum speed to work. I found a service guide to the above number. But it only says something about the idle speed, but nothing about the working speed. Does anyone know that? I also found that when the throttle is operated about 1/4 of the way without reaction. . However, the facial expressions move in front of the carburettor immediately. Could something be worn out on the track from the Bowden train to the throttle valve? If so, what? I prefer to ask, that I throw screws around myself blindly without getting closer to the solution of the problem. Small engines hardly give me any riddles, however, I have never had to work on the above engine. It jumps spontaneously and runs well, does not suck and smokes. What more do I want? Werner

Hello, since this is my first post on Motor-Talk, a little introduction on my part. My name is Joseph, I am 18 years old and I like to screw on all electrical/mechanical devices, especially with a focus on old tube radios, vintage cars and old tractors. We have been using my father’s brother’s tractor for more than 10 years each year for woodwork, a Fiat 480-8 without four wheel. A really reliable tractor that has never caused us any problems. The oil filter has never been changed in its tractor life, I don’t know about transmission oil. But now to my question: because I keep the tractor running, I wanted to check the transmission oil level today, because the transmission is in a terrible (!) loud. That means: I step on the clutch, start the engine, let go of the clutch, now the transmission is almost as loud as the engine. There is no noise in the middle of the tractor. the hand brake and the power shaft selection a small oil measuring rod (already on the side of the differential), this was slightly below maximum, so slightly sufficient. When I did electrical work under the tractor afterwards, I noticed two exhaust screws. Now I’m not sure: Are manual gearboxes and differential separate oil circuits? Unfortunately, I can’t find a measuring rod in the manual transmission, which speaks for a common oil bath, the 2 exhaust screws speak a Ilerdings against. To better illustrate the pictures. Maybe someone has tips! MfG Joseph

Hello, after almost a year of service I wanted to start my Husqvarna Rider again. Unfortunately, nothing is going on and the engine of Briggs is no longer spinning. I had recharged the battery, cleaned the magnetic contacts, air filters and bezin filters as well as changed the spark plug. The starter rotates and also drives up to the tooth wreath, but it doesn’t move. It’s really stuck. What can I do?

Hello, I have a small problem, namely a Briggs and Stratton engine on a turf mower of an acquaintance. I attached the type plates of the engine and the carburettor. I was told that the carburettor has to be cleaned, and the mower currently does not run at all. So carburettor is removed, disassembled, and the individual parts thoroughly cleaned. After that the carburettor is assembled again, and look here: engine starts and apparently runs normally. Z run, turn it off, turn it on, everything is good. Run short, get it off, and it no longer starts. So carburetor disassembled again, while the gray Nupsi, which regulates the spraying in the float chamber, is incorrectly installed. Engine did not run. So carburetor disassembled again, errors seen with the Nupsi, corrected, assembled: Look, engine runs, but with massive false ignitions and exhaust gas in the carburetor. After a few glances, I noticed the following: When I press the fuel line and by reducing the fuel supply, the engine will run perfectly at some point. Until then, of course, the fuel in the float chamber is empty. I conclude that the engine is running far too fat, but I see no way to stop this carburetor in this regard. Therefore, here’s my question, what I might have done wrong, and how I can solve the problem. Thank you in advance for your help and another nice evening Frank