Category: Traktoren & Landmaschinen Forum

  • Kaufberatung Aufsitzmower / Lawntractor

    Hello all, I am looking for a new mower / lawn tractor and found it on this forum. I’ve been looking for a lot on the internet, but I haven’t really found anything yet. The following basic data: * Lawn area approx. 1500-2000 m2 * With catch basket (I don’t want to mulch…) * The area has no big inclinations and a few smaller angles… Otherwise I’m basically looking for a solid, well-processed, durable device where I have my pleasure. “Billigzeug” from the hardware store… Of course, it shouldn’t be too expensive, but I don’t have any exact price ideas yet. As possible brands I have looked at Viking, Husqvarna, Stiga, John Deere and Dolmar so far. Which brands can be bought in principle and which models could be suitable for me? What should you rather leave your fingers off of? I know it’s still a little common but I’m looking forward to your Suggestions and tips/recommendations… Then I wanted to look for one or two corresponding dealers in my area and then buy them there. No way on the Internet. Thanks and greetings

  • John Deere Lawn tractor no spark! Help!!

    Hello all, I have a John Deere LX 172 Lawn tractor. There is a Kawasaki motor FC420V-AS10 motor installed. I unfortunately have no spark. I have already changed the ignition coil and the Ignitor(Zündmodul) and set the air gap. I have unscrewed the candle plug and if I hold the ignition cable directly on the engine block I get only a very weak spark. In an English manual, which possibly the magnets are demagnetized from the flywheel. But before I want to order a new flywheel on suspicion, I wanted to ask if there are any other possibilities. Greeting Kalki

  • Briggs&Stratton engine does not start

    Hello, the Briggs&Stratton engine in my Agria 100-4 engine hack (built in 1987) doesn’t start any more. Recently it has jumped perfectly. Yesterday only after about 50 times pull. It then runs perfectly. Today it does not start at all. Spark plug is new. Air filter is cleaned. If you put the plugged spark plug on the cylinder head and pulls, then it radios. After many start attempts, the bolted spark plug also makes a wet impression. D.h. Sprit is Can anyone help me?

  • Tuff Torq k46 Power loss after 30min operation

    Hello. I’m a forum newcomer and I have a problem with my John deere seat mower. I broke the drive axle a few weeks ago. I ordered a new axle and oil on top of it. I removed the gearbox / inserted the axle again (i.e. EIGENTLY nothing further touched in the gearbox) I freed the gearbox halves of the most adhesive and built new silicone up and again together and everything like it was installed again in the tractor. s sits like it was (have photographed everything before the expansion) and because I’m going to mow with it next day there much to me then that if it is a half to three-quarters of an hour permanently in use leaves the force in the gearbox after And does not even come up the mountain anymore. If I push the pedal then fully through then the gearbox literally screams. Do you have any ideas for me? If you still need some information just write MfG the insel plane

  • Protection from the mower burns, Mounting mower Etesia

    Moin together, With our Etesia (model unknown, Vanguard 16PS engine) the fuse from the mower has been burning since the latest. More precisely, this is the 10 A fuse, which goes to the magnetic clutch/magnet switch at the bottom of the belt motor sideg. The other cable of the fuse goes to the ground line. The cable from broken fuse to the magnetic switch is in any case fine after visual inspection and has no external damage. How can I proceed now to find out why the fuse always burns? Unfortunately I don’t know exactly what happens at the bottom of the belt and what can break there. Thank you for your help and possibly tips. On the pictures is once the place of the defective fuse (have checked straight passage etc.) and below the “magnet coupling” .

  • Briggs & Stratton Vanguard 6.5 HP goes out immediately

    Today I tried to start a sweeper with Briggs & Stratton Vanguard 6.5 HP. First because of old fuel nothing went and then it started short and went out again. After the disassembly of the carburetor I found that the float needle does not let in any fuel. Everything clean and without a needle it flows smoothly. The needle is made of plastic and has a cone-shaped rubber cap. Can it be that the time has passed by a few tenths? Carburettor does not come a drop even if I pull the float body down. As soon as I take out the stifft comes out immediately fuel sounds stupid, I know, but I have no explanation for it. If I fill the carburettor now through the outlet opening with a syringe it jumps immediately and goes out again after 3 seconds. Then I wait something and it jumps again. I have read something about an oil pressure switch indwo. Does not seem to have my engine, but it dangles a n black cable with round plug around which apparently but no counterpart has. Anyone else an idea? And does anyone know which float pin fits in there?

  • Hinomoto (HITACHI) E14D starter or exchange model sought …. Help !

    Hello, I’m looking for a starter for my beloved little tractor. I’m already half desperate because there felt very little info ́s in the whole net. I hope someone has enough expertise to give me a tip to repair, or interest me to take the part off. It is about a Hinomoto best E14, with a Toyasha S88 engine (at least according to my research), 3 cylinder diesel. The starter number is S114-240 and has 9 teeth. The starter sits in driving direction. I would like to introduce pictures pure. Diameter of the starter flange should be something around the 8-9 cm, hole to hole around the 11-12 cm, press-in depth around the 5 cm. Since I am still new here, I like to imagine myself. My name is Lukas, am 23 years and study WI, until now only made an oil change at a Fiat 466Dt and changed a shovel. Working on tractors has b i like found. mfg Lukas

  • Lawn tractor: BS Intek OHV engine just doesn’t want to start…

    Hello together, I hope to get help here in the community ! I am now with my Latin so slowly at the end… Perhaps in advance a few introductory words about my problem: I bought a lawn tractor for my holiday home in France in 2018 because we have a relatively large lawn area there. The good piece has an engine of Briggs & Stratton installed (name Intek OHV or something like that). Single cylinder with – I think – about 8-10 HP power. If necessary I could still have accurate A In principle I only used the tractor when I was at the house. So 3-4 times a year. Total operating hours until now < 100h. Lief always impeccable and jumped - as far as I remember - always without any problems. Through Corona I could not go to France in spring 2020, which is why I mowed our meadow only in late summer or in the case mulched. The lawn had grown after approx. 7 months without care to a wild field. The starter (14 teeth) suffered so much that he finally said goodbye. The cables were then melted through. I then bought a new starter on the Internet and thus the tractor worked exactly 2 start ́s. At the 2nd start I had already heard that something was wrong. Ritzel ripped. After that I thought that the starter might be taken out of the starter. I bought a new starter and tried the whole thing again in the next vacation. With this time special care during the assembly. Mistake however. This time it banged directly at the first start. The inspection of the fragments and the comparison with the broken original part, which I still had, resulted in inferior quality. The tooth sniper sees the fracture picture to F after an unhardened aluminium cast from... First realization: never buy cheap spare parts. I have bought a new starter (no original part - but a lot more expensive) and this is in principle or seems to be mechanical integerer. Now to my problem: the tractor doesn't start anymore. And I just don't know what it might be. What's funny is that when the starter starts it turns to the upper dead point and then - at least s At least this is very slow. If you wait for a few seconds, you can overcome the dead point at some point, until the next upper dead point is reached again and the game starts again. I don't have the "typical" tobogganing of engines, which do not want to start partout. I tried the following: 1) Without spark plug the engine turns perfectly. No problems. 2) spark plug on 3) Starter relays bridged: exactly the same thing, at the upper dead point everything turns into slow motion. 4) New battery bought: exactly the same as with the old one (which I mistakenly thought might be over). 5) Some gasoline directly into the combustion chamber in the hope of generating a first ignition. Missing. At the first overcoming of the upper dead point there was a dusty bang from the air filter and at the end of the cylinder, the 6) To turn the engine by hand is extremely force-consuming at the upper dead point with built-in spark plug. But it works. From time to time you can hear a hissing. Is that normal? First of all thank you, who has now read all this now. If someone has an idea or advice, I would be happy about feedback! Next would actually be ready to completely disassemble the engine during the next holiday. That's what I want abe r actually avoid - would be new ground for me. And after that I might have even bigger problems... So please: help me if I can still be helped! Greetings, Stefan

  • Briggs Stratton Lawn Tractor

    Hello people Hopefully you can help me. Have a Briggs Stratton Diamond I/C 13hp He had conrod damage. New conrod and piston rings would be installed. It no longer starts. Instead, there are almost regular misignitions after the outlet valve. Gear sits with all the fitting spring on the crankshaft. Also the flywheel. The unusual: much stronger pressure from the crankcase ventilation. What could it be about? Hope have all the necessary information I have just thought of it, otherwise I add it of course. It can’t be on the tractor itself, because this engine was already installed in this one, and others in this tractor run without problems.

  • Pull off Stiga tires/wave

    Hello together, I have to change my Simmerring at my Stiga Villa President. Unfortunately, the tire doesn’t want to go down. Nothing moves with punching. The screw with which you can pull off is already torn off this I have already drilled out again. Has someone an idea what else I can try. I also tried to push a screw clamp, a metal piece and a small bolt into the shaft bore. Unfortunately also here nothing to do. I don’t know any more at the moment and wi ll also not beat too much and possibly break something. Hope someone has a good idea. Greetings Christian