Category: Alfa Romeo 145, 146, 147, 155, 156, 164, 166, GT Forum

Hello guys, as I mentioned here a few times, I would like to drive an Alfa 156er. Now the plans have become more concrete and I am looking for a well-kept 156er. The official used car portal of Alfa (alfadue.de) is not accessible for a while now, so I am looking at well-known car exchanges. Whether Limo or SW is not so important, both think nice, decisive is the good condition of care. As motorization I have decided for 2.0 JTS, because from my point of view this offers a good compromise of power and economy. The budget is about €4k, if really everything is right, I would go up to max. €5k. The following criteria should be met: – Facelift, so from BJ 2003 – Up to about 150 tkm – service booklet-pflegt – From max. 2. Hand – No selespeed, only switch – leather equipment, all colors ok, only not red – BOSE would be nice-to-have, but must not necessarily be I believe that was already a favorite here 15 have become darker in Dortmund.

Hello people! Would you like to introduce me briefly to 39 years old and live in Austria. After a long time I bought a giulietta 2.0 jtdm 140 ps with 65.Tkm from first possession with great equipment super edition.I picked it up yesterday and drove about 100km to home (autobahn) and then I noticed that the clutch slips always only between 2200u/3000u actually in every walk only in cityvekehr is it hardly to be felt since you always undertourer rides.because I was with sufu with found was I ask here if this is a well-known giulietta problem? I have often heard about alfa romeo with clutch problems but with the new models still still? I still did a test carried out with 3 course in the stand brake slowly let come after a little more than half pedal way to the top is the motor almost gone and at 3/4 the engine then also did not slip. now the question of the higher number of turns is taken up and the next time the big mistake is over again said.

Hello. I would like to give you the most important technical data of the car for the best. It is a 156 SW with 2.4 JTD. Has proud 290.000 km on the clock and ran up to the following problem great. Year of construction is 2002. Now to the problem: If I walk at over 2000 rpm off the gas, it just goes out and tells me “error engine monitoring system. Visit workshop”. The same happens often when I walk with inserted gear from the gas. If I drive it very undertour (never over 1500 rpm) he drives without problems. A error reading unfortunately did not bring any codes (even read out). Now I have read a little bit, and I have often stumbled over it, the similar problems caused by the OT-gber. How can I check this? Also I noticed that the temperature never rises above 70°C, is that normal? MfG

Hello, my 156er sw 2.5 BJ 05 150tkm “beats” at the moment with smaller ground waves. That means grind the wheels / hit in the wheel box. I don’t have the feeling that the car is flipped or swam back and forth. It “beats” but whether I drive slowly or faster on the back as the road gets worse. Shock absorbers or rather something else? If shock absorbers which new ones are? The “60688989” without Nivomat. I have read that the B4 should be quite good instead of the Sachs… Achso. :; car is not lowered. Original suspension. Thanks and greeting.

Moin together, for 2 days my Km display has been blinking (which has been driving so far and the below display that can always be set to zero).When I turn the key 1x it goes on for a short time, but it doesn’t blink,only in driving mode.But the km are listed quite normally. Does anyone know what that could be?

Hey got an Alfa Romeo 156 2.0l ts 114kw 76000km bj. 2000… my problem is that it doesn’t really come in the low speed range and jerks a little, in the empty run zb at the traffic light the speed fluctuates between 1000 – 500 u/m or falls only once if and then goes up again. really doesn’t know what that can be. LMM has already been changed error memory has been read out twice already but is nothing in it…Help me!!! say thank you already

Hello together, when changing the timing belt and rib belt it was noticeable that the strap disc of the crankshaft should soon be changed as the rubber no longer looks so good. Now I wanted to order this. Unfortunately, I don’t find it. Nowhere is the part available except from abroad for almost 200Euro. Anyone an idea? Key number: 4136 443 Greetings and thanks

A question: Is it right that I have to pay for my Alfa GT Q2 with 150hp diesel and EURO 4 for the car tax 15.44€ * 1.910 cm3 = 308.-€? Does the particle filter even save me, or would I have had to pay 308.-€ without a particle filter?

Hello, I’m going to be 18 soon, and the choice of the right car is not easy for me! For some time now I’ve been informing myself about some cars,but after I hit the alfa 147, I can’t get rid of it anymore,like love at first glance. 🙂 I’m especially interested in the faceliftmodel 2005,with a 1.6l motor. I’ve taken the forum and all posts to the brist, helped me a lot,especially the emotional contributions^^. As I said, I’ve got the 147 1.6l in the eye, only the question arises to me here,105 HP or the 120 HP’ler. I already read that the only difference should be a difference of 15 HP *g*,but it was also the talk of a phaser, what exactly is that, what does it do,and is it worth it? My next question would be,if there is something similar with Alfa Romeo like a honda a vtec motor? Since I am not a rich man, I do not want a 2 liter machine at 147,only I would like more about the maintenance The car would be registered at 55%,and there would be small financing aids (parents),but as I said “small”:-).A good workshop is also available to me, because I get a good maintenance and discounts are also included. I hope for honest opinions,as I have already heard,that the 105 hp variant should be slightly thin,only you can be satisfied with the small 1.6 engine and also have fun?What is the driving feeling of the car? 1.6l machine, wins the feeling that the car is sluggish,because the vill does not have enough horsepower,or gains the feeling of love of the car,which makes it enough fun with the 1.6l machine!? Since I drive 80% inside place, I put more value on the acceleration,less on the highest degree of silence,although he should have something under the hood when you are on the highway.Therefore, my question is whether there are differences in the models. I drive a lot with the car. To, driving licence with 17^^,was only accompanied by my father, but you learn well. Driving makes me very fun, which I hope then also with my own car, of course it should look good, and I think I am exactly right with the alfa. Or do you have other suggestions which would be better for a variant, since I have not the experience in this field. I hope you can help me, because you always remember the first car,and the thought of the e s a nice Alfa was not bad ;-). Thank you very much in advance! MFG David

Hello together, I urgently need your help at least as far as I need it.. Sry due to long text.. Prior: I had opened a topic some time ago because of the click/knocking in the cylinder head cover where the phase adjuster sits. Visit workshop, it was determined deflection roller defect. Good errors found I thought.. Have cost estimate get timing belts change incl. water pump + cam shafts Simerings and cylinder head seal and still small material bsp Schr Auben blabla. Cost point just under 600€uro incl. working hours. Wanted to have my coupling aired again + 13€uro. 40€uro read out for error.. Sounds good and nice, car off to the workshop early brought allegedly about 4 hours of work. Have waited the whole day and afterwards to find out that the No timing belt change can be carried out because my outlet camshaft on the 3 cylinder should have entered. l!!! Cost point about 2000€ extra… The best is yes You wanted to turn me on a new car of 8000 euros, then said to Build the car as together as it was. First they refused, then after eternal phone calls they built it up again to me. So now I wanted to pick up car, get bill of about 150€ ?. so now arrived at home, early went out the door Mega ÖL stain on the ground.. first half street cleaned.. looks where the oil still comes from.. She from there the entire cylinder head from all corners.. even the channels of the spark plugs were full of oil up to the top.. Now even repaired still wanted to drive brake pedaling no brake force really there.. felt like grinding the brakes.. I wonder what they have made clear.. almost burst with rage.. I have never driven into the workshop in my whole life, as far as I could have done everything myself… there you want to go to the workshop and such a Sc***e.Now to the Sel bstreparatur I have now decided to do this myself, also for the reason that everything on the car is still in order “Neither rust” except the thing on the engine.. and a workshop never again.. I drive with the clacker/knocks already over 6000 kilometers, the noise has always remained the same and the engine is still quiet and makes no bitches. The clacker can be really bad to arrange, and it will also not be the turning roller.. to 100%. Did I confirm this yet I bought a large suitcase with a lot of tools that it does not fail, OT tool bought, complete timing belt set + water pump, spark plugs key, error reader, repair kit phaser did not do that but you can try it. Oil filters and seals, spark plugs, camshafts are on the way. And a lot of instructions.. and a link. e and right hand.. I couldn’t see any wear on the camshaft out of sample, should that still be what I’m going to send them to fix. Should that be the least problem.. I don’t think that’s going to solve my problem yet I’m going to put a video in the days where you can hear the noise, maybe you can help me further. I’ve got all of Youtube and Google looking through semplich things no comparable noise is there. The noise is really funny, you make times full of gas and three you immediately hear the clutch right as the engine slows down but the noise turns even faster than the engine itself. At the power I have not noticed anything about differences so far. It comes out literally above the noise if you want to be exactly where you feel the engine oil. Drive 10W 60 currently.. The noise comes as said only above from below is nothing to hear and is dependent on speed. It doesn’t even sound like this. e Hydro-punch rather like a screw knocking on top, but not even so that you would say that sounds extremely dangerous. As if maybe a screw would be taken and a string would be on it and hurled into the air against a wall. The video here is very close.. But if it is a crankshaft bearing damage which parts should I necessarily change rather also with, possibly all bearings? Bsp bearing shells. If it should be the case.. one could also change that to some extent. Well that’s enough now but ^^ I thank you as always for your help..