Category: Saab 9000 Forum

Hi guys, I’ve got a Saab 9000 CS 2.3 Bj.94 and my Saab is having trouble switching. The last time driving the gagne went in as usual buttery soft. Then suddenly immense increased effort when switching. I brought the gears, when driving as the problem hardly occurred any more. It seems to work a bit better when you push the clutch down to the ground. The pressure of the clutch pedal seems to be normal and the pedal comes back again quite normal after passing through. During the last rides, a slight jerking was felt especially during the first gear when driving. Has there been more of the clutch flutes or does that suggest more to a problem with the encoder/accepter? Can that possibly have to do with the switching rod? Thank you for your help!

Dear Saabgemeinde, last weekend I drove at 180 km/h on the highway, and the needle of the temperature indicator wandered into the upper third. The outside temperature was 17 degrees. Therefore, I reduced the speed to 140 km/h, and the needle commuted in the middle area. I drive the car since August last year, and I have often noticed that the temperature indicator rises so high, but in urban traffic and at standstill. It is a 2.3 liter turbo engine, mileage 185,000 km, therefore 180 km/h should not be over-stressed. Should not the highway generate enough air cooling at higher speeds and thus the temperature range is in the middle area? Three weeks ago my cylinder head seal has burned through, and therefore I am a bit anxious now… I would be happy about reassuring words 😉 Greeting Ronald Saabgemeinde,

Hello experts, would like to finally activate the oil pressure gauge in my Saab 9000 CS ECOPOWER, 125 kW. To do this, the serial pressure switch for the warning lamp in the dashboard has to be replaced. But how is it removed? Is there only one plug plug on the thread socket and can you just pull it off? I tried it, but the thing is damn tight. Wouldn’t want to destroy anything. Or how else can it work? Greeting, julefreund

I bought a Saab 9000 Bj.88 (Motor B202): Unquiet idle, after cold start the engine commutes between 500-2000 RPM, when it is warm it runs restlessly. After I take away gas the speed drops to below 500 and it likes to drain off. I have worked on an idle control valve with brake cleaner and did a new throttle damper – no change.In the lower speed range it runs rough, but from 3000 tours it pushes off powerfully.When accelerating bright whistles?Today after start the electronics (inside blower, window lifter etc.) has no power. After restart everything works again (accompanied by a strange noise from the rear). Euro 2 does not seem to be possible, since I do not get a cold run controller for the car. What can I do?

Hello Saab friends, as already reported I have become the owner of a 9000 Aero. The car was offered with a mileage of 150,000km. Purchase offer and purchase contract. In the oil change I cover a card in the engine compartment, which showed the data of the oil and the mileage of 297000km (!) to the next oil change. Unfortunately, there was no license plate on the map. In my opinion, the car has not yet 300tkm down, can it have been just a mistake here? The previous owner assured me today again that the car has certainly only 150tkm. Based on the Tüv reports this mileage can also be replicated. Should I believe that? How can one proceed in the case of suspicion? ariba66

Hello, I know the topic is there often already. With me it’s just that, I step the clutch, switch it, let the clutch come in, clutch moves in normally again, the pedal also comes up a bit again from the ground and stays hanged only then. Doesn’t always happen. Now that it’s colder but more often. I only have a few 1000km of the car and it was badly switched from the beginning, but wanted to blame the rejected circuit. Type: 9000CSE 2,0 LPT Model’93 from Italy. 275 tkm, clutch allegedly new. Greeting Niels

Hi, everybody. The latest version of my 9000CD automatic is the gearbox. This happens when it’s cold or when it’s been driven for more than twenty kilometers. Everything is completely quiet in between. I have now finally found out that the acceleration imbalance is caused by the diff. Has anyone already had experience with it, can you fix something or do you have to get the gearbox out?? What does a replacement gearbox cost?? Is that still worth it? Does anyone have an explosion drawing from the gearbox including connection to the engine? If it doesn’t pay for it anymore, you can also make me an offer for how much you would buy it, the rest is still an ideal used part bearing. I also have two brand new track rods, which I would give for a twenty. Thank you first.