Category: Saab 9000 Forum

In my 9000CSE 2,3t I had the fourth exhaust system installed (180000km). 2.3 hours were charged for this. This was explained with difficult dismantling of the old system (using welding torches). I believe that I was not slower during my do it yourself times. What time would be acceptable? For the renovation of the brake system at the rear (slices and coverings) 2,4h were billed. I imported the car ’98 even from Denmark for 38000DM!!! net (very good equipment, unfortunately no leather). At 140000 I had it turned into a deer tuning (230hp) and now regret that this did not happen earlier. The consumption is pleasantly low despite speedy driving (by 9l), there is no oil consumption. However, I am disturbed by the consumption of brake discs and exhaust systems. As I appreciate advantages such as high performance with moderate consumption, very good space supply and front drive (I live in mountainous surroundings), I will try to keep it at least until the next exhaust.

Hello Saab friends, I unfortunately found a rusting on the left fender today and then dismantled the fender. Of course, it would be best if I could find both fenders somewhere without rust damage and best in blue metallic “Body colour: 257 Midnight Blue”. Until then I will deal with the preparation of the rust spots and would be very happy about tips on the following points: – how and by what means completely remove the rust – how and by what means then correct the holes – and finally, by what means and in what order then rebuild the varnish. Thanks in advance for your help rpe 9000

I have now had the phenomenon twice in the interval of four weeks that the flat belt on the pulley on the 9000 Turbo 2,3 (BJ 94) jumps right up the front when you open the hood. Rolls and straps are ripped and the belt then only runs on three grooves over the roll. I then got on it again, went very hard, so much so you would put a bicycle chain on it again. The strap is so tight, but not as tight as before. I wonder now whether the strap has just been chanted and I just put on a new one or if the pulley tensioner is over there if necessary. How can I find out and how is it blown. The tensioner looks like such a claustrophobic shock absorber.

Hi, by the people at www.saab-parts.eu I now got a longer e-mail, where with detailed reasons is warned of the use of synthetic motor oils. (e.g. “…absolutely lethal”. Main reason: at the cold start low quantities of gasoline would be landed in the oil. With mineral oils no problem, but petrol does not deal with synthetic oils, which ultimately leads to oil sludge, burnout and clogged oil sieve. If the oil sieve is dense, the engine is quickly over. It is also justified that the flat part of the oil tank lies directly above the cat, thus very hot, which leads to the loss of the synthetic oil gasoline mixture. Urgent advice: expand oil sieves and clean and only take mineral oil (e.g. 10W-30/40). For a Saab engine is the expensive Snynthetiköl nothing. Here is the link to this info. http://www.saab-parts.eu/DEN-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-Stu-s.

Hello, my 9000er received a new ignition cassette in November 2011 and then drove 40,000. Always start completely without any problems. Now suddenly 2x a little delayed and now almost no more: 3 x 6 seconds without success. At the 4th time it went on … I had the ignition cassette in suspicion and thought about replacing it. The one from the Saab workshop in Augsburg said that I should recharge the battery. At the next start the voltmeter actually only showed 7.1 volts at the start process, although the starter turned as quickly as usual. After charging with the good C-Tek it again showed 11,1 volts and started as usual quickly. Question: Is it possible that the ignition cassette does not generate enough sparks at low volts even though the starter spins as usual? I already think to buy an ignition cassette so that I have been lying down because I have already stayed with a defective cassette. The battery is renewed in October 2012, so it would have to be good. The car is usually driven in short traffic (about 8 km?) Like Jens?

Hello to each other, with my Saab 9000i Bj. 89 (128hp) I noticed more often (of course only if the AB is empty… ), that there is no limit to the maximum speed due to the wind resistance … is that right? That means in plain language that I can drive in the 5th course up to the speed limiter (speed indicator is then about 220 km/h). But so that the engine does not run into the red dashed area (which one should only use at short notice), I have to go off the gas. I have the feeling that the car runs without speed limiter at least 230-240 km/h, is that also so with you?! Greeting Gizmon

Hello! Have the following problem: When I operate the windscreen wiper system hardly comes to water at the windscreen, while the headlights are literally flooded. I closed the hose to the headlights because I hoped for more pressure in the system and therefore also on the windshield. Unfortunately, but without success! Can it be that the hoses are to be from inside? I also found that it always takes about 2-3 sec. until even water comes out of the nozzles to then slowly build up a weak water jet so gradually. Has the Saab actually installed a check valve, if yes, and could it be that, this possibly is clogged??? Greeting Floppe

Moin moin, I had a company car for 5 years and I finally get a Saab again. The 9000 is the most beautiful for me. I have now been offered a 9000 3.0 Griffin. BJ 10/96 – 125,000 km. But I have only had experience with the 4cylinders up to now. Can someone advise me or advise me and someone knows the strengths and weaknesses of the car? Can it be that the car with 210 hp has no turbo? Does it still have a sporty drive and you notice the difference between 4 and 6cylinders? Do you still get spare parts? It would be great if someone could answer all my Frgaen. Answers like “just awesome” or “finger away” would help me as well. Thanks and until later Udo

hello saab municipality! today seems to be the day of the big help calls! with me lies the following problem before: yesterday on the way home after about 200km drive the temp rose in my 9000cse 2.0 LPT almost into the red area. so immediately engine off, ignition on, climateutomaitics on HI and waited, the play three times then I was at home. today the balance tank controlled. kwasserstand was briefly over MIN. 0.5 liters after spilled and tested – temp after approx. 2 0km again shortly before red and balance container brimfully and at the overflow. when controlling the balance container I noticed sugar-like grains both in the lid and in the entire container (outside visible deposits). can it be that this grind clogged the cooling circuit? when I put the climate car on HI came however only cold air! is the whole problem vll back to a defective thermostat? (my thermostat which the large one of the small cooling circuit separates!) also yesterday on the ride ices in the interior did not get warm, or just at first!!! since I am currently dependent on the car I would have to express my opinion quickly and thank you! although I don’t have to stress that normally in this forum ciao franz

Hello and first a greeting in the round. Of course, my first post is like most of the time the hope of solving a problem. And my 2.3 t usually starts in the morning when I get him out of the garage to grumble on, he jerks a bit and it smells like gasoline. After 1-2 km he runs normal again, after he showed weaknesses during the acceleration. Sporadic he also shows slight weaknesses during the ride, which takes only seconds, but then is normal again. Oh yes, it i The automatic version. Battery is new! Did someone have the same trouble or can anyone even help me ? Anyway, thank you very much !