Category: Saab 9000 Forum

I bought a saab 9000 for the winter.very comfortable kfz with a lot of frills in it. it only accelerates very leisurely, stutters in the stationary gas and if you want to accelerate strongly, it swallows itself immediately and jerks the same. the visit to the boschdienst was also almost for nothing, since the 91er can not be read with regard to motor control. the exhaust probe put into the exhaust – it runs much too fat. that can have of course several causes.on the red box is the right kun fabriciso erupted and the spring in the plug is missing too. but this spark plug looks just like the 3 others.I wanted to buy only a new exhaust in the car and not invest according to the error rule. it is a 2.3 16V turbo.I need a constructive advice. thanks in advance

Hello Saab fans, have a Saab with the 120kw machine, it’s the turbo 16, with 2.0 liters the engine has been jerking since recently – the tachometer then moves when I uncouple between 0 and 2000 revolutions back and forth and if I give light gas, I can drive on, but the engine then also jerks off and on when it hangs on the gas. if the air knife was broken, I already had that, then he likes to take out gas and uncouple, e.g. at the traffic light, when driving had i ch then never problems. Maybe it could also be the ignition cartridge / spark plugs ? (it is the red DI box installed) Year of construction is July 1989, starting it does great – it also has very good compression and otherwise runs very well – I am grateful for every tip

Hello all, I will have to buy a gas system for my little one in the new year. I am also well aware that turbo engines and gas are not so easy but I wouldn’t be the first one to try that, in addition, a customer from us drives a 900-I full turbo, increased performance and also on gas, so it’s possible. Who has ever gained experience with this (now especially bein 2.0 Softturbo 9000) and can recommend me to a system manufacturer? Important questions/conditions that I I would have to clarify in advance: -I’m looking for a gas system manufacturer that I can program freely with the laptop -In how far is the system compatible with increased performance? (I know that I can’t race on gas) -What’s the matter: Solenoid valve for full turboan control -What’s coming shortly after Christmas: ECU fun from Sweden (so 225 hp) -What’s coming in summer: Loader fun from Sweden and small Gooedies (to the 300 hp) -It’s not supposed to be any more, everything else just means: in the long run: gears in and out, but even a chic 6-speed transmission is now available in Sweden for my small, mmmmhhh, up to 750 Nm, lägga! Ok, but back to the topic: What size do the tanks have? What is needed in installation time? What do the systems cost without installation (do I myself) I hope to hear some interesting answers. Important: It will press soon, but I want to be able to drive economically in the partial load range. What do you think, now b in I eagerly greet Samy (and by the way beautiful feast days)

Hello Saabschrauber, my current 9000er, I only had it for 2 months and allegedly it was peppered according to the dealer has following peculiarity. (year 96 2.3 VPT) With each cold start the speed in idle immediately goes up also about 2000 rpm and then remains so high. If I drive a few meters the motor goes back to the normal idle speed below 900 rpm. But what it always does, the engine vibrates too strongly at this idle speed around the 860. That puts s But I do it immediately, if I increase the speed very easily. But what still stands out!! If I turn off the engine after this increased speed and restart, then the speed only goes short to 1500 rpm and then normally down to 900 rpm, just as I was used to from my hot-loved 2.3 LPT. According to the “master” of our local Saabschmiede is so ok and is programmed according to his statement in the engine control. I don’t want to say any more about that now. e made so far: 1. Idle controller removed and cleaned with petrol, also the two hoses. 2. A vacuum hose had an audible hole and was replaced. 3. The two upper motor bearings are new 4. The vibration damper on the V belt and the two rollers are also replaced. What I want to achieve: a. no turning up with cold motor b. no unpleasant vibration in idle c. finally again a consumption under 9 Ltr with normal driving mode. My LPT also has only 8.5 Ltr used So friends now I hope for your rich experience and look forward to the next screwdriver insert. Gruss rpe

Hello dear community. You have already helped me with my last problem wonderfully. Now I have a new problem. I ran to a traffic light a few days ago and let the car roll up like I always do when the traffic light shows red. When I hit the brake the engine went off. It took several times to start the engine again. Then he came quite hesitantly and “swallowed” himself again and then he ran again as usual. Had the Pro Then the tank cap changed, because it probably left no more air in the tank. After that the car drove without any problems until this memorable event. Where can I start with the troubleshooting? Have the petrol pump in suspicion, since the tank indicator from approx. 35 liters indicates something very imprecise. This means that it moves from a level of approx. 35 – 40 liters jerky against zero. When the engine went out the tank indicator showed approx. 20 liters and After starting, the display dropped to reserve. After that, I filled up a good 30 liters and the display went to 60 liters. Quite strange the whole thing. Can it be that the petrol pump sucks air from a certain tank content? I am, as always, a grateful customer for your answers. Greetings from Ralf

Hello everyone here, I bought a Saab 9000 CS Schrägheck (150 HP ) Softturbo used 3 weeks ago. Since I almost always drove only BMW, but always the Swede was angry, I decided this time for this. When buying everything was fine. They already told me that the rubber manscrews of the drive were torn in the front, but otherwise everything was fine. Two weeks ago I drove a longer distance with the car and then came in rain. the first hook… the light didn’t turn off, although I switched the light switch back and forth several times. After a good 10 minutes and switching back and forth again. finally the light was switched off. Since the day before yesterday, however, where it was so warm, he began to shine in the operating element like a Christmas room. In the vehicle display all 4 red lights on from the lighting…and further the warning lights of the wash basins, the attached handpiece. Then I looked, the lights are all burning, washing water is full and also brake fluid he has not lost. Therefore my question…has someone ever experienced this phenomenon at his Saab and if yes…what was it? Otherwise, the car itself is a very nice vehicle….is really comparable to a BMW 5…yes..if this warning system weren’t there. I already suspected that maybe a control board is defective. ..but I don’t know about this vehicle yet. Furthermore… when I was driving on the highway for a long time…is the 2.0 Ltr Turbo with 150 hp…but I managed with it only after a long swing the 200 km/h, then it was over. The air filter is still fine, after that I already looked. Maybe someone can give me some detailed information, if this car is a cuckoo… is BJ 96… and now has 168,000 km away. or whether this is normal. I would like to thank you in advance for your answers. Greetings of the newcomer

Hello, recently added a “new” 9000er……2,3 T (T wie sch…. Trionic or TCS? ) Brand and type: Saab 9000 CD 2.3 Turbo chassis no. YS3 CD4 5M2 P103 XXXX Previous owner had problems, because the cable was dropped from the cooler fan. Due to this ZKD defective, while driving home the previous owner then activated the emergency program despite water refilling and the accelerator became heavy. Meanwhile the ZKD is renewed, engine runs well and calm, TCS lights up constantly, e All sensors were measured -> ok. after the battery is disconnected no flash code is issued, only after running, setting off and new switching on of the ignition it flashes 5x. has meanwhile also tested all valves and vacuum hoses and tw. exchanged as well 4 (!) various electr. throttle valves installed and tested. Stand gas is of course as good as not available, emergency program has then shortened the emergency gas rope a little bit to drive a short test kö charging pressure is built up, the performance seems to be normal. have I forgotten something, what needs to be learned or something ? what must be deleted necessarily, that does not detach itself by batt.? Thanks in advance !

Hello Saab Kenner, My girlfriend drives a Saab 9000 Turbo from 1992, which still has many parts of the 91er. No matter, that’s not the point, but: An acquaintance has put the flea in her ear that her seating equipment: leather with velour stripes on the sides with seat heating but otherwise only manually adjustable, would have been installed afterwards and the value of the car increased into (immeasurable) ;o). My question to Kenner: Are these seats really in demand and are also called “Business ” when the settings are manual? Thank you. Fukkel

Hello Saab`s after I got past my unplanned workshop stay yesterday (exchange of exhaust = EURO 350), the friendly one informed me that I can unfortunately forget my “Pickerl” (translation = TÜV) because all brake hoses are finished (9000cse Ani, BJ 97, 110kw, 185t km) . To take the wind out of the sails of the best of all wives – she drives a 307 SW (BJ 05) – I would like to ask the specialists what this repair in Euro means to me I would still experience the Euro worst case for this necessary repair, because I still enjoy every ride in my Saab and I want to maintain this feeling further. Since I really like my Saab and at the moment it is still very useful to carry it out in a Saab blacksmith and not in the bush. Since I always find myself in the subconscious with a successor (Jaguar XType 2.5 or 3.0 and medieval 9-3) I would still experience the Euro worst case for this necessary repair because I still enjoy every ride in my Saab and I want to maintain this feeling further. ig seems to continue driving the workshop maintained cars I will probably have the necessary repair carried out, whereby still some uncertainties exist: – Control chain in my opinion not to replace forge – clutch still the first But these are other stories That’s why in advance Thank you for your information neo saab fan

Have a Saab 9000 2.3 L Turbo with ACC, built in 1997. When calibrating the ACC, the actuator lever moves back and forth once. In normal operation (car) it does not move at all when switching on and off the circulating air. Is this normal or should it move? Please give us a tip. Have just the dashboard open. What can it be for? Switching motor or ACC unit?