Category: Saab 9000 Forum

Good morning all together! I renewed my oil pump a week ago and made oil change, and since that it rattles in the chain box, but only in the morning who it is cold the first 900 meters, after that it is all quiet again. Could it be by the oil type, I have now 10-W40 in what was in it before I do not know exactly since the workshop has left no slip in the engine room. Has anyone of you already observed this behavior and has someone a hand firm explanation for it ? I’m grateful for every tip. Then I also have a question about the model and the engine. So my Saab is a 9000-der with 2.3L hub and Turbo 170 Ps only approved in 1993, when I ordered my oil pump at Skandix I was a little surprised, because this did not fit the hooks on the small gear not paste together with the hooks on the crankshaft so I sent everything back and ordered me at Schwedenteile.de a wheel set for a year 94-98 and the pa sst. Do I now have a 93-er Saab and have to order for replacement parts for a 94-er ?

Hello. I hope that after an hour I don’t mention a topic twice. For the first time I had a transmission damage 6 weeks ago. (just started with flaps and pipes. Diagnosis ,,, scrap,, so far so good. For weeks to search for bearings have now been able to find and adapt a different transmission from a newer one. My problem is now the following. The translation of the courses has changed Before for example I had at 120kmh 2500umin. Now these are already i tempo 90. My Saab mechanic also thought I should not expose the 5th course to too often full acceleration. My suspicion is that the gearbox comes from a weaker one. Mine is Nen 2,3l turbo with 143kw Bj92 With the old gearbox stand also Saab Drauf, with the new one, on the other hand, already GM. Can it be that the gearbox (the new one) does not tolerate the load of the machine? And shorter it is really what I regret, but I am happy that my baby drives again And besides waiting for weeks, it also cost me ,only, 1000plus VAT (including one and expand) My next porblem in connection with the gearbox exchange is : When accelerating even with rather calm it pushes me the gas pedal again and it becomes hard (where in the limp home mod.) Can it be that the TCS (my has it unfortunately) nei calibrated? Lamps remain anyway also check engine remains silent after the start. What could this lie on? don’t be very warm for your answers and wish everyone a nice weekend.

Hello Saab municipality, since I am quite new in the sector Saab I urgently need advice! I have been driving a Saab 9000 Aero Bj.96 261000km with Nordic kit should have about 275Ps?! (hears good!) but now comes my problem, I have changed almost everything(damper/springs/brakes/covers/customer service was made/new APC valve/ etc.)though it would make sense?!)) but somehow he doesn’t want to!? he stutters from about 1500U/min. at full acceleration(if he is warm) he stutters even more, and absolutely does not get into the gears! again and again performance suspender. what could that be? my nearest Saab dealer is 1h away and he could only tell me by phone,possibly Zünkassette?! Ask for your help does not want to buy and exchange unnecessary parts! P.S. lives room Esslingen near Stuttgart

servus, maybe a Saabprofi here has an idea what my 9000t 2.0 CSE 92 has. I have already tried a lot, but until now unsuccessful. TCS lamp burns, throttle valve does not work, of course, that alone would be still ok, but I still have a small side effect, that the engine can be turned up until 2000 but then suspends, to start again at 1600, so he saws there at the stand. The effect can be brought away either with a cold temperature feeling he, who is simply floating in place (he warms up with a hair dryer he starts again) or you put out the throttle valve relay (via glove compartment) or you put off the traction control rose valve computer. Of course, he has less power then, but you can at least drive. I have already changed: the computer, the throttle valve, the valve on the injection wall, the teperature sensor of course also, there are blue and black, all hoses ect. now I am a bit helpless. D he engine was replaced (not by me) I bought the car with this mistake (and others). It’s not my only Saab either, but he’s already very persistent. Greeting Bernd

Hello reader, advocate, nice people and creditors! Now I have brought my CSE from the workshop with just under 190TKM, with a newly filled KLima plant. Very nice. But from the principle all the plants should be the same, because physics can not outsmart any manufacturer essentially. At another point I already wrote that we still have a CLK. There are ellenlange explanations for the meaningful use of the climate,especially in relation to the case that one enters into the heated car. My thought, which I want to get rid of here: I always ask myself what the ECON button does! Now I hope not to be mocked, but there is no more operating instructions. ….and please… OFF and ON I understand. But the people of Saab certainly also have Abitur, which is why ECON must mean something. Greetings from Berlin. Andreas

Hello, my on-board electronics have been spinning for a few days. When I turn on the ignition, the ignition is constantly on and off. During the 2nd attempt, it works normally. Besides, most of it doesn’t work properly, i.e. when I turn on the main light, flasher, window etc., the speedometer goes short to zero and radio goes off and then on again. Sometimes even the engine goes off as soon as I turn on an electric consumer. Since then, the on-board computer also flickers. Ask for any help. I’m done with the nerves. MfG

Hello, dear ones from the 9000 forum! 9000 CSE 2,3 Turbo MY 01/1998, 165 kW, approx. 209000 Km It caught me again: When giving gas in an AB driveway (do not believe that this can be the cause), suddenly the speed indicator fell abruptly to zero and no more general and daily kilometers were counted. The clock in the middle of the combi unit is dead. So I drove the other after speed or also ahead. In the first stop I then called i n the SAAB workshop (it was around 2 p.m. on Friday) and it was said that there could be primarily four causes, namely a worn pinion to the speed sensor or a bursted plastic ring that drives this pinion or cable break from the encoder to the combination device or marten bite. Now I worked my way through from the top to the gearbox on Whit Monday (screw off the heater, battery holder off) and found only TWO wires from the transmission. Type of encoder, which has an elastic cap in it, (looks like a Lambda probe, but is what is mechanical what is moving). When pressing in, there is contact, when releasing, it opens again. Is it a mechanical contact encoder that is driven over a cam and then integrated in the combi device? Or is it something else and the speed comes from somewhere else? The two wires that go “in” from there, I rang through and a resistance of about 78 ohms can be measured, “feeling” as if there was an electronics behind it. Would be very grateful for any hint that avoids a gearbox opening. Greetings from Nürnberg Waldemar

I want to fill my manual transmission with new oil soon. Vehicle is a 9000 CSE year 94, engine is B234E. I have already found out that according to DIY Manual, I should fill in mineral engine oil 10W-30 or 10W-40. Most engine oils of this viscosity class, which I found are partly synthetic. Can I also use a partly synthetic oil, or is it absolutely necessary to use a mineral oil?

Hi municipality! As you have noticed vll last year I had considerable difficulties with the gearbox, or the reverse gear! I got then from Luca one with flapping 150tkm. Unfortunately this now apparently also gave up the mind, because since Wednesday morning the rear side does not go in either. I have seen with our verwerter a 9000 Zwoliter suction with corresponding gear, for 150 thaler! Km performance I have not looked yet! Is there for my 95er 2.0L PT a suitable transmission without these stupid synchronous rings? Is it slowly tired of changing the switch box every 25tkm – understandable or? In this sense still a nice Sunday! Greeting Franz

Hello, are there any flaws with this engine ? The one I have in mind has run about 248tkm. Areas that require special attention during a visual inspection? Otherwise, what about the durability, if one starts from a delicate treatment. Seller speaks of about 0.5l oil consumption on 10000tkm. Merci