Category: Saab 9000 Forum

Hello specialists, who can help me? With my 9000cse, 110 kw, Bj97 I have found today that, whether in idle or when the car is moving, there is always a ticking from the AC unit. That does not disappear very regular ticking (approx. every third second) only if I put the air conditioner on “car” or “eco”.What can I do?? Please don’t tell that you are always traveling with the setting AC. Since I can’t do anything myself I would be very grateful for a relatively clear error limitation since then the next way leads to the workshop again. Thank you in advance.

I have the following problem I drive a Sabb 9000 Turbo Fleisheck. From time to time, it only runs on three cylinders. This is not dependent on anything that’s been kept up to date. Sometimes it runs perfectly and in the next moment it runs nmur on three cylinders without power then again it runs perfectly. Maybe someone here after idea what this can be or maybe has heard of it and knows what to do? Have had it already a workshop but no one could say what. He then smells extremely of gasoline.

According to another website, this is supposed to be the strongest Bosch valve, respectively, the strongest spring of all Bosch bypass valves? Don’t have a 9000, but if necessary wanted to install the valve in the Audi 100, because the Audi S3 valve has a rather weak spring, which no longer reliably dilutes at 1.3 bar overpressure. Thanks & Gruss, Olli

Moin together, is probably a well-known problem with 9000s, and now it seems to have caught me as well: The windows fogged quite violently from the inside in the morning. Sweetly it doesn’t smell, the floor mats are not wet either. I still notice that it doesn’t get really warm in the car. What can that be, heat exchanger? This funny air valve motor? The AAC is refilled every 1-2 years, don’t think the ices? Car is a 97er CSE with climate automatic.. Thanks & Greeting 9000CSE

Hello Saab municipality I drive a 9000i V16 Bj.87 306000Km and have the following problem: Cold start no problem if the motor is warm for hours nothing at all. The engine turns through but it does not start. I have already checked the following. -Benzinpump surrt -Zündfunke an den kerzen ist da -empty running regulator cleaned -low pressure hoses OK – safeguards all ok Who can help me???

The problems don’t break down … After I stayed with a defective petrol pump 14 days ago, the engine went out while I was driving and didn’t let it start again. Of course, the pump had in mind, which did not make any noise when the ignition was switched on. In the search it turned out that the pump itself was ok, but it didn’t get + from the relay. Exchange did not work. It turned out then that the relay on the steering side + got from the immobilizer, but the mass that comes from the Trionic Pin 56 is high-ohmig. Since the immobilizer was disabled, this must be a wanted signal from the control unit. Since the motor does not start even with the brushed pump relays, I was suspected that the error lies somewhere else (obviously the controller does not want to start). Can it be that the actual cause of the Kurbell wave sensor is, the Trionic does a self-test at the start and because of the possibly defective sensor pump and ignition does not release? There was once a report to cold solder/Wackel contact can be fixed in the Tribell wave sensor or a good greeting device?

I had the SRS light constantly on and turned on when I had pushed back the steering wheel height adjustment a little bit. Today I had the error read out and reset and according to Tech 2 the trigger should be one of the two pears in the pictogram. Since I still have a cluster instrument from my old 9000er, I looked at it the same time and found that there are really two pears, one with gray and one with black socket. All the other pears also have the black socket. Has someone ever dealt with this problem before? I would expect that the same pears can be used for both slots, but would like to hear the opinion of the experts again for safety. It is also interesting that these pears are not connected in parallel, for example to the failure safety. At each pear two separate ladder lanes go, which is also well visible on the switching plan to the pictogram. The one pear gets its signal directly from the airbag control module. But where does the other signal come from? Can someone help me, because I don’t want to fix the problem in the airbag.

Hello, I noticed today, that with my 9000er 2.3 turbo of 94 at cold start and automatic on D the poly-V belt flutters. Above, right under the hood at the height of the ignition cassette, where you can see it so 40cm long in a line. At cold start and automatic aud D or R the engine roars as well. After the start it is immediately gone. At the first traffic light it is again in the stand gas. If the wagen is warm, the throbbing and flutter has disappeared. Seems to hang together. Does anyone know why?

Hello, I’ve noticed since the day before yesterday that my 97’s 2.0lpt is jerking with fast full-gas (turning out, so to speak) when I slowly question the performance it behaves quite normal. The stand-up gas is also normal, I give in the stand fast gas, so nothing happens, so only under full-stitch it jerks, and such a noise a bit like a broken exhaust… . Now I’m close to the guess with the ignition box, have read here also that the thing holds so about 100tkm, I have now 116tkm… . Am I on the trail of the mistake? Other ideas? If this is the box, where do I get the (best new) favorable, what is the so cost, and should I immediately exchange the spark plugs (which are the best)? In short, I thought that it might be this black cylinder-shaped thing, that on the vertical pipe, that goes on air filter tube, that must be opened/close at the power call too quickly, or can it be just the sparker?

Hello, since February I have a 88 Saab 9000 Turbo, where everything runs smoothly, except just “CHECK ENGINE”. In idle the good piece is jerking and the speed falls partly white very briefly up to 200 UPM and then again up to 1000 and sometimes, when it catches again it turns without gas up to 1500 UPM. However, as soon as I give gas and drive it usually runs completely round, except that it sometimes jerks a little bit and loses its performance for a short time. My guess is the petrol filter, especially since the petrol pump is extremely loud in idle. I hope here can be helped… Greeting from Plauen Micha