I’m about to buy a Saab 9.5 3.0 TiD from 2001. After reading the articles, however, I got a lot of thinking. The car has already run 120000 km. Did I understand correctly that the described problem with bushings applies to all engines of this size? Greeting Malte
Category: Saab Motoren Forum
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Weak V6
Hello dear Saabgemeinde, since November 2005 have the convertible with the 2.8 liter engine V6 and Turbo! T u r b o ? If there is no turbo indicator on the instrument panel, I assume that it is a sucker! Now don’t complain immediately, after the moth 250 hp are fast enough, and you can drive on the highways, highways etc… with this traffic density… anyway not fast anymore! That may also be true! But it should not be that cars with about 100 hp less ä The power of a Mercedes E240 is already causing serious problems on the motorway (between 180 and 220Km/h) and GM ECO-T(Dr)eck engine sends a greeting! Who has had similar experience with the new V6 engine?
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New ignition cassette defective??????
Hi, can it be that the new ignition cassette is also not ok? Yesterday and today, again short jerking – ignition oscillation at approx. 1500-2000 rpm. Tonight, after a short stand, hardly jumped. However, no stench detected. Can it be that the ignition cassette again in general? After just about 1000 km? Wolf24 P.S. the Germans play in the Bambini Liga? Brrrr
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Help with engine damage
Hello, during a test drive with a Saab 900-II Turbo 136kW started knocking after 100km while accelerating the engine. As it turned out with the subsequent control of the oil level, this was below the MIN mark. Even after the oil refill, the engine still makes SINGLE noises. In the stationary gas the noises are not heard. If you increase the speed, the knocking and/or hitting becomes inaudible. Now the seller is a friend and now is good R at expensive. I have the following questions: 1) What value does the car still have, i.e. with a working engine ? The car is built in 1995 and has 133000km down. It is a metallic blue coupe and has full equipment. In 1997 the (half-) automatic transmission (?) has been replaced for a 5-speed manual transmission. The car probably had problems often, making it a proper impression on me. 2) How can the damage best be repaired – replacement engine, engine reusable How do I get a cheap replacement engine? What tips do you have – what can you advise me? Greeting Harald
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Saab 2,3ltr T to Opel 5 transmissions
Hello, a question to the Saabfraktion: That the Saab 2,3l and the Opel Ecotec 2,2l have the same GM block should be known. Is anyone known if the Opel 5 gears like it e.g. the B Omega in the 2,2l version fits easily to a Saab 2,3l turbo engine? The Opel drivers in the foum don’t know anything more exactly. According to my info. Don’t let me teach you a better one!
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2.2 DTI year 1999 no longer starts
Hello people, since about a week my Saab starts very bad at the morning start, since today no more at all. While he first lit the last days, but then came at too little speed and first off, today even 2 minutes of orgling did not help. After the last days had started, he then drove perfectly. Also the start after work was no problem. Furthermore, a strange, light “smore” smell comes out of the engine compartment, the ic h but can’t locate. Does anyone have an idea what it can be? Thank you hardmood
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Ruggling and going out for deer tuning?
Hello! Be careful, long story! The day before yesterday my Hirsch control unit was installed in my 9-5 2,3t ecoturbo BJ ́99, I have various problems. Since the installation the engine jerked quite violently in the low-touring area when accelerating from approx. 1500u/min upwards to almost 2500, then it ran round. In the case of engine brake or gas removal at approx. 2000u/min he also bucked. Today my dealer then tapped on the spark plugs exchanged only last week and replaced them, as well as the the pressure of the fuel supply increased from 3 to 3,2 bar. This helped a little against the jerking, but now it often takes me to the traffic lights when I brake and steer at the same time. In addition, it goes up shortly after the start up with the speed, in order to then rapidly suck off and go out. If then after several attempts you just get gas, it catches itself then at some point and runs also round. The engine fits exactly to the control unit, that has a call at Hirsch in the Schwei z. The intake pipe was also exchanged for that of the aero and the air filter is a new K&N. So air shortage can’t be. The mechanic now suspects that the control unit lacks the control signal from the 2nd Lambda probe, which was installed additionally behind the cat from MJ2000. Does anyone have any idea what that could be? Thanks in advance!
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Chiptuning
Halli Hello Hallöle ! I would like to let my Saab 9-5 Aero tune. At Hirsch I get a package from 250 to 280 HP with new exhaust, charge air cooler and air filter for a total of CHF 6’500 (!). The company Motorpower in Switzerland now offers me a pure chip tuning without the additional parts for of course much less investment sum. Does anyone already have experience with the company Motorpower ? I am not sure if this can also have a serious hand and foot, if you don’t have it Thank you for your input. Helvetic Greetings Filet
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Saab with Opel engine
Hi I’m relatively new in the forum and an enthusiastic Saab driver (93 SE with Hirsch-Tuning). A work colleague (Golf VR 6 drivers) whom I take with me on business trips from time to time was so enthusiastic about the Saab that it could imagine buying the new Saab 93 – until I casually mentioned that the new engine was based on the Opel engine. Then the topic was done for him: “Opel engine – I don’t drive that…” So far I have not read a detailed information about which engine comp I am surprised that there are no tuned engines (at least from Hirsch) available from the new 93er – my interpretation is that the engine has to be too little stable….
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how does the oil sieve sound when it’s tight?
Hm, that with the oil sieve, someone knows how that sounds to me. I have a whirring sound at the front right, regardless of speed and autmatic position. Whenever it starts when it’s warm, it’s gone – but not always. The noise is high and erring. I was already at the forge, there you changed the oil filter, which was supposed to be too. But the noise was back again… I’m not sure now if I should make the oil tank number precautionarily or not. The car has only 50 tkm, taken over with 28tkm and since then all 10tkm always get an oil change. Can the sinter have a different origin – the oil pump should sound different…