Category: Chrysler Forum

Tach together! I want to buy myself a Voyager Bj. `95. LE 3,3 Automatic. On what I have to pay attention at the test drive, where I have to look for rust. Where are poorly recognizable defects to look for? The seller told me that the brakes are due at the front and the rod rubbers are on the driver’s side at the end. Of course I make both sides to not have to answer twice. Otherwise the car would be in the top condition. He also did not run a lot, 163000 km, is an older gentleman who has always gone into the workshop and never drove faster than 120 km/h with it. Thanks in advance greeting M.

Good evening, we have been driving the GRAND VOYAGER 3.3 LX since 2001 and have now reached KM-Stand 225000. Since 2005 we drive the car on LPG. The cylinder head seals at BEIDEN cylinder lines were renewed 2 weeks ago, because it dripped synchronously at the same place, is now again absolutely tight. Problem: The cooling water is rolled around by the pump, but the DICKE cooling water hose in the engine compartment does not build up any pressure. The cooler has been renewed, the lid from the cooler has been replaced. Renewed on DREIMAL because…. Since no pressure is set up, the cooling water level in the balancing tank from MINIMAL rises to MAXIMAL after 10 km, so if you have a little more than minimal cooling water level (at cold) you have the cooling water on the road after a few kilometers, because it then goes over minimally and is pushed out. Please info if someone already knows such a problem – and above all – WHAT NOW DOES ?? Thank you. Greeting Burkhard

Hello, I came across your forum while looking and hope that you can help me here. I drive a Vojager 2.4 Bauj. 1999 with automatic transmission. 180tkm. Gear oil changed with filter 2years ago About 2 hours ago the Vojager did not switch up. i.e.: he can switch into the gears, drives off and then hangs in the 2nd gear at 3000 Umdr. and 50km/h. What can this be about? Who can reliably help me in Cologne (not Getra)? Please answer soon.

Hello, since last Sunday my Mercedes unfortunately failed the service, I now have to get a new car. So I came across the PT Cruiser. Does anyone have experience with the diesel variants here? I currently drive about 30,000 KM per year and need a reliable inexpensive companion with cruise control. I found the following model: PT Cruiser 2.2 CRD According to various offers partly with 121 and with 150 hp, are these different chip settings, or different motors ? Is a consumption with 7.5L realistic, what do you consume with the car? I had with my E220 CDI, is possibly the same engine, repeatedly problems with the diesel injectors, have these problems already occurred with you? What else can be said about the reliability? Electronic problems were unfortunately common with my Mercedes, what does it look like here?

I have a huge sample in my Crysler. If the car stands for more than 12 hours, the battery is always empty. I had the car already in the workshop, but it did not find anything. The car consumes only small electricity as it may be and the battery is new and fine. Also, the display on the speedometer switches from day-kilometre counter to total-kilometre counter. Recently, I can’t leave the car at times. It just doesn’t matter. Has anyone ever heard of the problem of electricity consumption and knows advice?

Good evening, I have had a Dodge Journey 2.0 CRD for almost two years. Last year I renewed the thermostat, the timing belt & the water pump in the car. Now I drove the car for a long time again and for 2 – 3 weeks the car suddenly gets terribly hot, in any case this shows the cooling water indicator & the car started to stink. I put the car in a garage, which looked at the car for 6 days and could not detect any mistake, Besides the statement “It might be the cylinder head gasket”. This quickly costs 322 euros. Now I put the car in a small workshop in the country. After a test drive the mechanic ran right and could first find out that the brake blocks at the front were completely “glued” to the brake disc, which glowed. The blocks were changed and it no longer stinks. In addition, we changed the thermostat once new & the compensation tank For safety, it still tried to vent, making it seem that there was no air in the system anyway. Today there was a new test drive and the problem has unfortunately still not solved. If the car is running idle, it gets a temperature of about 50 degrees lt. Display. If you then normally start with the car, it comes to its operating temperature around 90 degrees, as it should be. The heater then also blows normal warm air. The temperature in the interior is then also much warmer. We drove the car immediately to the right. As soon as the car comes into idle, the indicator falls down again to about 50 degrees. Engine cover opened and see, the cooler is cold. Now we honestly despair a little, because every “unnecessary” defrosts. have you experienced an idea or perhaps a case like this? Would be nice if someone could help me / us further. My car is really sacred to me and of course I want the reperatures to be made – but I’m not angry if I can save money for unnecessary exchanges. 😉 MFG, Jackie

Hello municipality I greet first of all those who are interested in this topic and thank in advance quite warmly to those who provide me with their competent contributions help. My problem: I start my thick the control lights go out as usual, the orange indicator light (motor block) lights up again. Now I give gas and drive off the engine starts to stutter immediately with some forced gas giving. So as soon as some power is demanded he stutters so, a ls the ESP system would slow down the car. As soon as I take some gas away, the stutter stops. I can only speed up the car without stuttering if I tread through the accelerator pedal very gently. But as soon as I step through again the stutter begins again. After a few kilometers drive a control light red (blitz) goes on. I called the ADAC which has read out the following errors: P0403 Exhaust gas return valve P0046 Charge pressure regulation I ask for tips, experiences and your help e when troubleshooting. Vehicle data: EZ: 04.2006 / Km 82.000 / V6CRD / Thank you MfG Yellow phase brake

Hello to the Chrysler municipality… I love buying a PT Cruiser Cabrios, BJ 2004, 40,000km, 2.4 Limited, Handschaltung. Are there certain points that should be particularly considered with the PT Cruiser? A used car check is coming soon. When looking under the bonnet, I noticed two things that made me feel a bit thoughtful: 1) around the lid of the power steering fluid and also on the lid was partly a thick oil spill Is it possible to get out of here with a leak or has someone just filled up very uncleanly? 2) The coolant was at a very low level (with Add). Does the PT Cruiser have a high consumption here or does this low level speak for a defect of the vehicle? Are there any other known weak points of the PT Cruiser, which you should have in mind and to which the TÜV people are best addressed at the used car check? I am thank you for every hint. r, also by PM… Best regards Michael

Hello, how is your experience with the bodywork or rust susceptibility of the Grand Cherokee. I am superior to buying a 2009 he or 2010 Grand Cherokee. It should actually also last 10 years. Also gets 1x a year a polish. The 3 liter diesel and the automatic transmission are probably from the Mercedes shelf should be no problem. But the rest ? Should you have an additional holroom sealing with underbody wax at the beginning ? Greeting Thor

Hello car friends, I am slowly at the end with my Chrysler PT Cruiser. For a long time I have been looking in my garage for the errors of my Chrysler. I checked everything in the logical principle. Ignition, injection, air and also almost everything renewed and the problem is still there and the indicator light lights up in the interior. I changed the idle switch (because of error P0505) and have recently changed ALL injection nozzles , because of the error 0203!!! Cruiser 2.0 liter engine with 141 hp has always worked when it was cold quite normal, when the engine is warm it jerks, takes badly the gas and eats gasoline without end. It also smells really like gasoline when it has the quirks. I changed everything and checked what only went on. So at least to what extent my mind and technical equipment has passed. It has now been renewed: – Air filter Zünkerzen Zünkabel(ALL) Injection nozzles(ALL) throttle valve with all sensors(empty position) r and throttle flap poti) and it still shows up the errors 0505 and 0203?????I did not have the fault memory deleted yet, but the battery jammed off and again. Then the engine light was out for a while, after 10min driving it went on again. What else I suspect is a drop in the petrol pressure, I could not check yet if it fits. What else can this be???? Lambdasonde?? Possible the ignition coil??? Electrical problem with plug from the injection nozzle ??? Re nice, if someone knows more about the engine and can help me…