Category: Chrysler Forum

Hello guys! I hope you can give me a few infos! I saw a 300M 3.5 at a dealer and must say that I like it very much! But since it is an Ami I wanted to have a few infos before I got into it! I’m driving a 2003 Mondeo (child,practical and so)! But we’re actually not the ones on so ́n all over the world car that man sees every 100m 10 times! We like the car from the shape very well, but it should also remain affordable(sc hon clearly that which is especially also more expensive!) But now to my questions 1.What costs so ́n part in the maintenance? (insurance etc.w) 2.Sprit consumption??? 3.Repairs, spare parts? 4.What should I pay attention to with the product? 5.Has the timing belt or chain? I hope you can answer my questions numerously!

Hello, watch on my 300C 3.5, 2005er, strange charging voltage values. Otherwise, it was always at 13,7-14.1 volts. On a hot summer day or on several consecutive times it fell off a bit, then lay at 13,3-13.6 volts. Meanwhile, the Lima is new and recently also the battery. But both did not bring any improvement. Driving it is normal. If the Evic is off or you do not observe the voltage, you would think everything ok. System also has no error message. But now it hasn’t been working on for two weeks. We looked at mass contacts in the engine compartment, the battery terminals still look good. Anyone an idea?

Hi everybody and nice Whitsun, I hope that maybe someone is here in the nice weather. Yesterday my 300m 2.7l went out during the ride. Stand there in the roundabout, maybe 5 minutes later again jumped and so 5km drove and then went out again in a slight curve. The same, had just set up the warning cross and tried again, jumped again and fortunately came the 3km to home. Then I tried in the evening, there he is even This morning the ADAC came and there he came the first time. The ADAC couldn’t help either, meant, maybe the needle hangs from the tank indicator, which is too little fuel in it, because it turned out in curves? But the needle is not even on reserve? Yesterday I also did not drive so far that the engine would be really warm. Where it happened the car stood before 2 hours and until it was out for the first time, are not even 2km. I was looking for chon in the net, but there really comes everything from engine damage to crankshaft sensor. Maybe still important, there was also no warning light before or after and I then turned off the radio, the engine runs also calmly. Oil and that’s what is in it. A colleague said, could also be the ignition lock? Oh so, the ADAC could not read out error, because the year 1999 is and since there was not yet the plugs? I am afraid that he will again in impossible place n stops and calls my workshop after Pentecost, but is also a freeman and not Chrysler, but he has already had the car there, maybe you have an idea, what I can say to him then? Or someone has had the problem before? Would you be very grateful!!!!! Greetings and nice weather enjoy Micha

Hello I have unfortunately experienced a surprise at the TÜV, AU did not pass. Vehicle Chrysler PT Cruiser, built in November 2003, petrol, 2L. Air filter, oil and spark plugs before replaced.The following values were read: Engine temperature min. 60/ 60 in order Exhaust gas measurement: idle min 700 max 900/ 750 in order Co Vol.-% max 0.30/ 0.11 in order Increased idle min 2200 max 2500/ 2210 in order Lambda value min 0.97 max 1.03/ 0.988 in order Co Vol.-% max 0.2/0.49 not in order My F Rage is a bit more detailed. Every now and then the oil lamp shines on it is supposedly too little oil inside but if I look for nothing is missing, is always close to max. At first my thought was to exchange both Lambdas but now I think at almost 180000km stand it could be the cat. How do you see that? I would be really grateful for help to find a reasonable workshop here that wants to repair “such an Amikiste” and can be almost impossible. Thank you for reading it.

Hi guys, I got a re-import crossfire last week and despite the few kilometers I could drive because of the bad weather, I’m totally thrilled. A really crazy car with extremely high attention factor. But you know that yourself. But I have a problem with my salesman, who had promised me that I would get a business manual in German. Unfortunately, he doesn’t want to deliver yet, but I don’t think it’s right. I have 2 questions. How do I get a German operating manual or does someone in the forum have one double? Secondly, when I start the ignition a tool key and a number appear on the display behind it. I couldn’t find out what that means in the Dutch manual. Can any of you tell me something about it. Is this just a basic clue or do I have to go to the first inspection, I thought it was only due after 15,000 km? Thank you for your help. Greetings LarsenI

Hello together, I’m quite new here and I think it’s best to introduce myself briefly. I’m Heinrich, 56 years young and for 3 years I’m also a very satisfied owner of a Chrysler Sebring Cabrio JR V6 from 2001. Unfortunately, I’m not a screwdriver and have very little technical understanding besides two left hands. Therefore, I always get information here in order to visit a workshop for maintenance (repairs were not necessary 🙂 not to be completely delivered. I make a change of every 4500 – 5000 KM with Castrol 5W 30 and a holiday check I leave for 25€ every year at ATU, that is my kind of inspection. Some work, so far it was only tires, cooler hose after a marten visit, brakes, HU etc., but I have to do in a free workshop and not at ATU. Now to my problem, the brake fluid has to be changed and I am not sure which brake fluid I should approve. I have read that DOT 4 for ABS brakes is the right one, but there are also Chrysler drivers who say DOT 3 must be used, that has something to do with the brake calipers at the Sebring. Since I don’t want to rely on the workshop (the master himself says that he can’t do much on the car, because he has not yet screwed on , that too) and I could not find any clear information in the WWW, I wanted to ask here if someone can help me. Date n from the Fzg. Schein: Daimler Chrysler Sebring Cabrio, JR, 203 PS First registration 2001 Thank you and sorry that I can not contribute to this great forum myself. Best regards from Frankfurt (Oder) Heinrich P.S. if someone knows a good competent workshop for the Sebring near Frankfurt (Oder) I would be very happy. The workshop can be both in D or in Poland, I don’t have any prejudices. Unfortunately, for years all the workshops that have hit me have been shaking. The current one is at least honest in my opinion and the master asked ist dat ne Sebring ??? Was the first one who knew what I was driving ……

My vehicle: PT Cuiser 2.4 GT, BJ: 2008, mileage: 102 TKm Dear fellow fighters, after effort of search and no reasonable hit, here is the description of my problem. After lighting up the MKL I leave out P0139. I then replace the sensor 2 (after Kat) with a Lambdasonde by BOSCH (LS 50207, F 00H L00 207 – 760). After clamping the battery, which I had clamped down for the replacement, the error was gone first. he. The immediate reading of the error brought the error code P0138. I understand that the code “Bank 1 Sensor 2 – high voltage, i.a. above threshold for 20 sec” means. However, I lack experience as to how I should continue. I would be very grateful if someone with error limitation would help me. Gruss, Alex

Currently only as a concept,https://insideevs.de/…/ …but doesn’t look so “immature” ! Unfortunately you want to let the technical data, among other things the dimension still not officially reported:https://….stellantisnorthamerica.com/newsrelease.do?… There is only one cockpit image with: “400 mi – 118 kWh – 295 Wh/mi*…” Bzw. with the subtitle of 2x 150 kW engines in front and rear. Autogazetten probably write in the format of a Ford Mach-e, or Model Y,… although in completely different ways whether it is the STLA medium platform, at 118 kWh above, well…https://www.auto-motor-und-sport.de/…/ PS: Interestingly, there was already a Chrysler Airflow in the 30s,https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_Airflow_(1934%E2%80%931937) *means probably 18.33 kWh/100km

Hello dear motor talk community, I hope you can help, now to my problem that car has stopped, ADAC reports injector defective b.z.w. leak, after 1 x injector was dipped he nevertheless did not jump, cause possibly Battery too weak, Battery replaced and that car still does not start, errors may have been replaced, and yet he does not start, p. S if you push it he always starts. I hope you can help me fen. Beautiful Greetings Orhan

hello forum I was happy to buy a stratus cabrio for one or two summers thinking about the 2.0 and a year of construction around the year 1998-2000, if goes as an automatic. the sebring is actually too expensive for me, which was only given from 2001 now the “call” of chrysler vehicles is not exactly the best (keyword: voyager…) does this with the increased repair vulnerability also apply to the stratus? or on the sebring? is there any good reason to take the sebring? so big would not be the difference … must definitely be a four-seater, the kids will probably not want to stay home. am grateful for every info lg g