Category: Fiat Idea, Linea, Punto & Grande Punto Forum

Hello guys, with my Fiat Grande Punto Benziner, BJ 2014, type 199 (60.000KM), the engine control unit seems to be broken. ÖAMTC has already read it out with the result ignition oscillation on one of the four cylinders. Cables and ignition coils have also been exchanged without positive result. Now there was unfortunately no pickerl anymore since the exhaust values do not fit in idle (runs also a bit restless). Now my question: What possibilities are there to replace or repair this without the workshops fee of believe that was to cover the 1200 euro. lg to all helpers 🙂

So, for a long time now, there has been a problem with my Fiat Punto Van 1.2 60. The engine is very slow after that. When I press on the gas it stops again. However, the car also accelerates much slower than before, so it can’t be driven properly, when driving backwards it jerks even more strongly. I had this checked with such a motor device and there it was due to the spark plugs. They were renewed, and see, running again, I thought… After 20 min driving the same problem again. Did the car stop, after a few hours drive again and it ran again 20-25 min and then it went off again. So when the car is cold, everything seems to run great, but after a time it starts with the jerking and the “not accelerating” , so that always comes together. Could it be lying on the cable of the ignition plugs? Does anyone have any idea if it could be anything else?

Hello guys, my Fiat Punto 199 doesn’t work anymore. What I’ve found out so far: Questions: Apparently the H7 light source of my left headlight was also broken at the same time, this I changed and has been working perfectly since then. Thanks and greetings!

Hello, I have a strange problem with a Fiat Punto 188 from 2001. The speedometer always shows only a quarter or a third of the real speed. I have already exchanged the following things: Tacho, ABS block, ABS sensor at the front left. I also installed the speed sensor from the Puntos without ABS and attached it to the green/grey line of the ABS connector. Here unfortunately the speedometer needle does not move. With the diagnostic software I can read everything except the ABS block. However, the ABS fuse is not broken and without the ABS block the speedometer does not react at all. What is also surprising is that the ABS lamp never concerns, even after ignition. Does someone have an idea what it might be or how I can use the speedometer signal of the gear generator alternatively? Mfg. DT

Hello With our Fiat Punto Evo (199) the battery was weak a few days ago. Cars did not start. Only with multimeter tested – and to be sure also with starting aid cable the car started. -so clear case. Battery removed and new stock. The thing again installed and: nix display reported fuel barrier and various other error messages. I then tried to find out how to reset this. After unsuccessful search behind the glove compartment and disguises, then the tip that you can reset this by means of turn signals to the right and left combinations. That actually led to success. The car starts and drives again. But: All electronic helpers are still without function. These would be among others: Start & Stop, Hill holder, servo steering, ASR and also ESP.Has someone eventuel a tip on how to breathe the systems back in life? Is nevertheless really annoying, that you can not even change the starter battery without Pobleme. And I really have changed some – just not at our Fiat Bisario –

Last year I bought a Fiat Punto for my son the EZ 27.10.2010 used and according to Tüv the brake discs and the blocks have to be changed at the front. At Fiat it costs almost 360€ (only parts) Wanted to buy the brakes now on eBay but I can not quite clear here. There are so many differences as Fiat Punto EVO – Fiat Punto/Grande Punto etc. Would you like to buy nothing wrong. Can one please help me In the FZ it says: Type 199 HSN and TSN : 4136 ARC If you would like more information please write.

One more thing, I’ve got a little bit of coolant from my 188 (1.2, 60hp, BJ 1999, with climate) and I’ve got a little bit of coolant on the left side of the cylinder, the ZKD was completely wet, the thread of ZK screw 10 (on the right side, if you’re standing in front of it) was rusted. No oil in the coolant. I can’t see at best where the seal has a crack to coolant channels. Since the whole ZKD was wet, the water must have been pressed between seal and cylinder head or block. How can this happen? The screws were very tight, the inside not as tight as the 4 completely outside. I’ll look in daylight again how plan the head and block are. I have not worked the block 1h with grinder tiles (see pictures before/after) and I want to put on a completely revised cylinder head. (My old ZK is in his life at least. 3x hot and 2x from Fikat can’t and has not seen it again. I’s a little bit. I have a bit of chill.

Hi together had a problem was on the highway on the way in the rain once all the lamps at the windscreen wiper went slower and the car went completely out. Then came the road service bridged the car and everything ran quite normal for three days no more problems only I am afraid to drive again highway. The workshop did not find anything you can help me. Lg Michael

Hey guys, I probably – pretty sure – built some really shit in the purchase of my Fiat Punto 188. It was advertised with “cooling indicator rising”. Driven, test driven and seen that it really goes after about 3-4 km into the red area. I thought in my youthful lightness “Oh, that will be the thermostat or air in the cooling circuit” and bought it. After I picked it up today and carefully drove home, I opened the hood and the large circuit was definitely open. The hose to the cooler was really hot and the fan ran despite driving. The cooler was rather less hot. I felt confirmed in my assumption and filled in a liter of coolant once. Through the vents on the cooler and the hose to the heat exchanger nothing came out. I was happy again and thought “yeah, just buy a bit of cool water and everything is still top of the list. I then made it as it stands in the instructions and gave gas. What was: white smoke from the exhaust (see picture). And I didn’t have to say that there was a little bit of oil in the last year’s oil.

Hi, what’s going on in the hot water cycle? When the hot water cycle was busy I had a nice time in the hot water cycle (was a thick police check at the main traffic time :/) The heater was already warm, stop-and-go? And then there was no hot air out of the heater and the radiator fan went on in between. So it went on for a while while while I was thinking about whether I had a cooling circuit leak or the water pump is giving up the mind. Water didn’t run out (it went out and looked at it) and every time I gave a few seconds gas, it got a bit warm. When the car stopped again cold. Behind the traffic jam the heater immediately got warm again (it was a tempo 70 distance). That fits to the small abnormalities of the last few weeks, the temperature indicator fluctuated from time to time (it went a little bit higher). It also felt a bit longer, until the car was warm and then the car didn’t get warm again.