Category: DS Automobiles Forum

Hello, I would like to briefly summarize “my life” with the Ducato. I drive a Ducato box van 250l, 120 Multijet, BJ 2007, about 170,000km today. With about 60,000km bought. After I have: – div. front windows – all ABS sensors – ABS control unit – throttle valve – ARG valve or as the thing is called – headlights – burst diesel filter housing by now come still problems – with the ZV (can’t get the car occasionally over the remote controls (the white varnish leaves off, except for the primer) – gear problems 4th gear – the car could not be closed – rear doors that grind on the bumper and now rust from below (could not set Fiat) – stinking air conditioning – inside black mold in the corners of the partition – a sliding door that usually goes very hard at the first attempt to push it up and The next stroke comes!! If I brake normally, the right turn signal starts to blink!!! If I brake easily, it doesn’t happen. If I turn the right turn signal for a long time, the lamp control light starts to light up and the flashing noise gets faster. I have to look again if the turn signal flashes faster. If I turn on the left turn signal and then brake, then the turn signal starts to blink again. Ais, next to the normal flashing sound of the relay, to make noises. My guess is the right rear light. Here can actually only the “brake signal” with the “blink signal” meet. Has anyone ever had such a problem before? Greeting Dirk

Hello, we are considering the purchase of a box van, which we can use for driving as well as as as a camper. I would build the equipment myself, so that it can be expanded quickly, if necessary. There are many box vans and combinations of different manufacturers, where almost all have an internal loading space height of approx. 137cm, at the normal roof of course. How high is the Fiat Ducato in the interior of the cargo space? Is that enough to stand bent? Thank you for all the suggestions…

Dear Forum members, my good 4 years old Doblo 263 has a cable break in the tailgate cable harness with countless problems up to the not working rear lock. But I have changed almost all for silicone cables (not: 2x the very thick, 1x a medium). 3 cables were completely off (the thin ones). But there is still one phenomenon. If the tailgate is open, the lock works quite normal. But if it is closed, one hears the electric sound of the unlocking door. ngsmotors, but the lock remains (mostly) too. For this the windscreen wiper moves a piece. Often only after repeated attempts the lock then works. Second phenomenon: When I operate the rear windscreen wiper, the warning light “Heckklappe open” lights up as long as the wiping process is in progress. However, since I do not know which cables it concerns, an information would be great in this regard. Maybe someone has a plan with the color/function layout of the individual cables. It would be much easier to find the mistake. Thank you for it!

Hello forum members, I’m new here and this is my first post. Since March 2017 a used Doblo (BJ 2009) is my own. It’s a dealer car. Since the exhaust system was heavily rusted before I took over the car, the complete exhaust pipe was replaced by a new one. It looked tipiop on the chopping day (new exhaust stop) I looked at the underbody again last WE and hit me. The middle part of the exhaust system (40cm) The exhaust pipe in front of and behind the coroded exhaust piece, however, look perfectly fine from the outside (steel paint). How is this possible? What would you do in such a situation? Is it useful to cut out the rusted 40cm piece (welded with the rest of the system) and replace it with a new pipe piece? I’m afraid to start to rust the two welded exhaust pipes in front and behind the rusted piece (if you Is the exchange of the corroding exhaust piece of economic nonsense? (the rusted pipe piece is still solid, fortunately) Say: Should I leave the plant like this and react first when it leaks and then replace the entire plant? Has anyone had any similar problems? I somehow suspect that the dealer has used a rusting pipe piece already inside. Or is this phenomenon to be explained differently? Maybe someone can help me. Photos follow immediately. Greetings Nebukatneza

Hello Motor Talk municipality, I have a Ducato type 244 2.8 jtd Bj 02 which has not started since today. For about a week I have always had to have a bit longer organs when starting, performance he has had as usual. What I have done so far:All contacts on the battery cleaned because 3 years ago the immobiliser has not worked properly, did not bring any improvement. Control times is checked everything as it should. High pressure cable open to see if diesel arrives when ignition comes in abundantly when starting the pressure change but not. The whole has started short time after I had fuelled ( tank was still 1/4 full). Errors are not shown error memory I can not read out. First question I have it can lie on the cam wave sensor? What can I still check or what could it still lie on? Is there anyone who knows about the vehicles in the room Lichtenfels? I am grateful for every help many greetings Jürgen

Hello, I have a problem with my 2001er(?) Doblo. I started it today, ran perfectly for a few seconds, I was able to drive up the speed normally. Then the speed went back to approx. 1000 u/min, stayed there for a few seconds, no matter what I operated the accelerator. Then the speed went to the half and then the engine went off. I could not start the engine any more. Everything organs helped nothing except that it stank to Diesel. If I want to wait a bit and start the engine the engine gives a short jerker of itself as if it would come and then that was it again. I had that once a few months ago. But then it went on again. Do you know what it might be? Greetings

Hello together, I’m in despair with my Duc. Two weeks ago my Ducato changed the head gasket. So far so good, everything was built together properly and tightened with torque. Fuel system ventilated and after a good half hour the engine then ran as well. Now to my problem : 1 day later : Front again built together, cooling water in it and wanted to run the good piece warm but nothing happened, engine rotates, but does not start…. No chance, with start pilot it starts and you can keep it alive. What was done : Error read out but no error stored fuel truck measured, according to tester fluctuating between 400-700 bar, so too little leak oil checked but almost no leak oil on all 4 cylinders injectors incorrectly mounted around, so that they get into free splashing but there is not 1 tropice All fuses checked was a 40A fuse in the engine room, believe F08, defective was also exchanged but no change high pressure pump replaced again exactly the same, too little pressure cable from donors and injectors is measured by I don’t want to be able to jump all the tank.