Category: Ford Mondeo Forum

Hello, have bought me for relatively little money (850EUR) a 94er Mondeo tournament GLX with the 1.8l 16V machine with 188tkm (switch). Since the seller was a real dip (e.g. had defective fuse dipped light left, which of course did not notice and has instead to change the fuse to a cable from the right headlight …), I would like to know what I should do technically everything (only for prevention, since there are no records about maintenance and inspection). Is this a big thing at the Mondeo and how is the fastest? Furthermore, both bumpers are over, does someone have two price values??? Thank you and greeting Andreas from Kassel

Hello! Guys, you’re going to stone me or tar me, feather me and then light me or something, but it’s about the brown plague at the edge of the door again… I’ve already read through the approx. 1.345,298 threads and I’m sorry that I open another one, but I’m talking about the following: I was today with my Mondeo in the wash road and then I got stuck on the driver’s door and the right rear door during dry scrubbing. llt. (Well, so far as no problem, for the disillusionment I was able to prepare myself now for almost 2 years.) But now eats with me so that it “only” starts to rust easily, so can not be too long since it has started. Therefore my question, if you would go now to let this be judged or would you still wait until it almost starts to gammeln properly?????? Does this make a difference if it starts to rust again sometime later after the repair? Or eats completely the same??? Here are the pictures of it. Thanks already and sorry for this annoying topic… Greeting Bear P.S.: Please excuse the bad quality of the pictures, but I only have a mobile phone cam without macro function…

Hello, as already written, the following problem occurs with me. Between 80 and 100 km/h it wobbles in the whole car. I already had all 4 wheels balanced out, did not do anything. I actually did not have cheap tyres where something like this could happen. There are Michelin Alpin something… , they are also only 3 years old and still have at least 60% profile. I will probably also drive to Ford, but the experience has shown that it sometimes makes sense to those the rough R to show. Greetings schuppe115

hello to the MK III drivers. does someone happen to know from you whether the MK III has a motor underrun protection (or as the part is called) as standard or only on some models?? My last Focus tournament had this (Bj 2002 ) and this Mondeo I have now (Bj 07/2004) has no — is that right? ( 2.0 TDCI 07/2004 tournament ) and if or not — is the retrofitable? and what will cost such a thing?? or Bzw.. I will visit my Ford dealer because of that — if it’s up to all should be below. gruss andreas

Hello everyone. It happened again, my Mondeo is standing. Yesterday there was a change of the front brake blocks with me. I then got the blocks and the grease. Spring off. Brake caliper with the 7er Imbus removed, the bracket with the two machine screws cleaned for cleaning also and cleaned with a wire brush. The old brake cheeks removed. First of all scared, because it really needed to be changed, although I only 35tkm of motorway drive dam With a combo tong (I don’t know any nice method) the pistons were pushed back. Before the tank opened for you brake fluid. Something greased, blocks back in. Saddle over. Screwed and spring back on it. Everything so far as in the picture book. It worked great. Brake fluid checked, ok the stand was a bit rough high by pushing back the pistons. But well was explainable. Tested whether pressure is on the brake pedal, check. Pressure set up and a piece of g When driving pressure away. As soon as I rolled 5cm I was able to press the pedal in until impact, however, at the end of the pedal had a very good braking effect, in which he almost blocked always. First thought, air in the line. Front wheels again. Ventilated. Wheels again. Driven. Same problem. Next thought to exclude sources of error. Brake fluid change at front and back complete. All wheels from time to time pumped and ventilated. Wheels again. The same problem still. In the stand it builds up fully pressure. As soon as I drive I have only stop braking effect. New brake fluid, discs front 50 %, blocks front new. Back still drums which are also relatively new. Sorry for the long text. Does anyone still have an idea what it might be about? I was already made to the suggestion that it is the main brake cylinder. That the air has in it. Possible ? I’m open for suggestions. Thanks already

Hello Mondeo experts !! Can someone tell me what the difference between TDDI and TDCI is!? It has come out after 4 years that I have been sold a TDDI instead of TDCI even though I have a TDCI wolte also in the purchase contract says that that should be a TDCI but not the case !!! 130 PS ok but no TDCI is that good or not what mine !?? Can and should I sue the dealer afterwards or what !??? Greeting Pablitto NRW

I am interested in the Mondeo as the next car. But as a strong diesel. What can you say about the 2.2l TDCI? Think that the 155hp should go quite well. As a frequent driver, no big gasoline would be worthwhile for me.

Hello together, I bought me about 2 weeks ago the above-mentioned mondeo. Unfortunately, he has only released me so far …. started it on Friday, was on the highway with about 140kmh, suddenly this lamp started to flash which probably stands for the glowing candles and the fuel injection relay. It seemed to me as if the engine was running in the emergency program, the turbo did not turn on any more and could drive only 120kmh and he ran totally restless. Dealers drove where I bought the car. Said ….. they hung him to the tester and found that any code in the motorelekronic was wrong at the jack nozzle … well the car was therefore 2 days in the workshop. Then picked him up Tuesday and found that he now has a clattering as if the exhaust was broken. I mean, but it is something with the turbo that can be ?? …. well, I didn’t care much about it at first. eight, but then came Wednesday morning the hammer, again on the highway with about 160kmh suddenly braked the engine full program off, the lights were outside and in the car dark..er sounded like he had a storage damage or so you could not sit in the car so doll the hit a massage was there nothing against … when changing on the side strip I noticed the front right at the side oil kicked out and that was also the end of the song. He jumped z was still at but driving so you couldn’t anymore …. so towers called and towed to workshop where I was already… the car is now standing since Wednesday in the workshop and they could not tell me until today what is going on with the car. The only answer I got was: There is something on the engine am meanwhile really mad thinking the druxen drumm around because it is definitely what is really serious. and because it runs about the warranty as said before 2 where So manythicht one of you knows something about it and can tell me what happened now with the motor thanks already for the answer

Hello people, I’m about to buy a well-manufactured Mondeo Ghia X with the 131ps TDCI machine. I’ve also taken one in mind. Now I’ve been to the Ford dealer for retrofitting solutions for diesel particulate filters. Construction date of the vehicle would be 11/03. According to Ford, there is retrofitting DPF for all Euro3 machines, but for the Euro 4 machines only from the date of construction 2/2004. Maybe one of you knows what was changed from 2/2004 on? Thank you. MfG Jimbo99

Hello, need a confirmation for my fault diagnosis or a hint where it might still be (but don’t laugh if I’m too close to it). Problem 1: If it’s a bit colder, it starts normally in the morning or just after a longer service life, but after a few meters have been driven and the clutch is kicked, the speed drops and it goes out (can be handled by “playing” with the accelerator pedal). After a restart, the problem is gone until the next day. the idle control causes the problem? Problem 2: It never gets really warm in the interior. First it takes an eternity until some warm air comes. And if a highway ride last year I noticed that after about 200 km distance, an average speed of approx. 160-180 km/h and about 5 degrees outside temperature the blower has switched off again and again at regular intervals and for a short time only cold air came. Would tap on the thermostat. Right? Problem 3: Exhaust gas values do not fit either. The mixture should be too “greasy”. Co is too high in idle and increased idle. Besides, the Nox value does not fit – I think too high – exactly. Does the thermostat actually have an influence on the air/sprite mixture? Would go to a workshop, but after my last visit there I became more than 1000 Euro poorer and would like to limit the error before I have to pay for the search there or would like to fix the error(s) as much as possible. I am happy to answer, even if you can “only” help me with a problem. Mfg