Category: Ford Mondeo Forum

Hi, OK, I know that they set themselves up. since I have TÜV in March and the linings were down anyway I had them made new today. The braking effect itself is OK. However, my hand brake still goes quite soft. I say I can pull it almost up and still drive it up. Shouldn’t they adjust themselves or did the workshop here (again) make a mistake? I would have expected to get a harder HB which is fixed after 3-4 rests. Is it possible to change the handbrake lever? There should be one with which you can then adjust yourself? Thank you

Hello guys, on the way home I had the following phenomenal: I speeded up (approx. 80km/h), suddenly a jerk, the turbo is gone, no real performance and the gleam flashes. I drove home for the first time. Otherwise the car ran easily also over 100km/h, only the turbo was missing. It also doesn’t sound funny, no clattering, no sooting. What can it be? Hopefully nothing expensive, it’s Christmas. Can I continue with it until I have a workshopter The more technique – the more shelter with the carts! I vomit…. Greetings Paule

Hello together and again the sorry topic nailing at the Mondeo 130PS TDCI Bj.04. Since the update on SW44a a few months ago, the nailing at my Mondeo has improved a bit. Now I noticed that after longer motorway rides (>100Km with about 150Kmh) the engine is extremely nailed (really like a tractor!!). After about a 1/4 tack filling and road this behavior again commutes and the engine runs back to normal. d-Adaptation of the ECU, which as far as I know, is constantly active? In addition, I notice a jerk when accelerating when the engine speed reaches about 1900 rpm. Last but not least: At idle speed the engine runs perfectly. I increase the speed carefully in idle mode with the accelerator pedal to 1000 to 1250Upm runs the restless (vibrations). From 1250Upm these vibrations are gone again. Can one help me further what this symptom could cause. I have an appointment in the For d WS on Friday. The WS wants to recalibrate the nozzles (but have already indicated that there are modified nozzles for my engine!)How much would new nozzles cost(have a lucky guarantee)? The mileage is 65tKm. Thank you very much Jimbo99

So I checked it back and forth now. ARAL is clearly the best diesel fuel on the market. There is no other with it. Advantages : 1) Much quieter at the cold start. 2) Quieter during the ride. 3) Turning joyous 4) On night trips I see hardly any soot development in the rear-view mirror. At diesel of a free petrol station I could also be a locomotive I just don’t understand how ARAL manages to make the diesel more soot-free ? The basic fuel is supposed to be the same ? ditive added. Greetings

So, now my Mondeo has also caught it: At 154T km of mileage on Tuesday evening speeding up at the intersection, at once the pre-glow control flashes, as far as nothing unusual, I think, he just goes into the emergency run, tomorrow drove to the workshop. Wednesday morning he jumps at once totally unwillingly and squirts like an animal. So I called the ADAC, locksmith comes out and reads the error: Injection nozzle 2.Zylinder knock limit reached. ester to the dealer… Injector has been changed, error memory deleted – same result. new soft wait on it – no change. Electrical check – i.e. the car does not take any gas and smokes terribly. However, NO error is filed. Do you still have a hint??? My workshop seems to be baffled.

Hello, to all TDCI drivers who have a Ford Mondeo 2.0 from year of construction 2001. Turbochargers and injection nozzles like to go kaput!! All I know and it is in the number 8 all have the same problems! And mine recently gave up!! So think about buying ……!!!!!!!!!!!! MFG HÜSO1

Hello guys, come just flew over from the Honda warehouse because I have a question about winter tires (no fear have already used the search but found nothing that could answer my question). It’s about that my old man has increased his Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi 3 months ago and now he needs winter tires because he himself has no marking of it I wanted to ask which size (dimension etc.) and winter tire brand is good?? read here what from 215/on 16 rims and then again 205er etc. What is the optimal for the Mondeo?? Thanks to you already in advance for your answers. Ford Mondeo TDCi Bj 2003/ 6 gear

Just for information: I have a Mondeo TDCi 2.0 85 kw. After the inspection, the oil was checked on the workshop site to see what level of oil I had to pay attention to. I had the impression that my measuring rod was wrong before. And look, apparently 1 litre of oil was filled up. Shown to the master who asked the journeyman: “No, there are exactly 6 liters in it.” Master: “Letting off in measuring can!” Were exactly 5.6 liters in, left in the oil filter. Until the “O-Ring-Knubble”, that is only the thin part for measuring, it shows me the exact maximum value of the oil filling. Shouldn’t you completely sink the measuring rod to the measurement? Master: “:-” He hadn’t experienced it yet. The measuring scale made of plastic was probably mounted too deep, of course I get such a defective product again. With oily greetings to all Ulli PS.: Look for a holiday of the other kind on my page -No advertising, promised!-

Hello Ford “Ruckel” friends, after a long time I decided to convert my vacuum box (VTG adjustment) to pressure box (from the Wastegate loader, still had one in the cellar). Nach 1hd I got the pressure box rebuilt and made an extensive test drive (be careful with LDA). At first the loader regulates so with 0.7 BAr. By slow adjustment on the shaft (VTG rods) nevertheless got the load pressure on approx. 1.4 bar. m lower speed <1800 rpm generate approx. 0.2bar more charge pressure. Now to jerk: The jerking is definitiev hardly still there, even after the cold start this morning the jerking is ~90% less. First of all, if you drive for some time and see how this behaves, can not explain it to me. Does anyone possibly have an explanation why the jerking has become less? Greeting

Hello together, at my Mondeo today with a loud blow a shock absorber (front axle, driver side) said goodbye. I drove the car then directly into the workshop, about 10km, arrived just like that. I already lost parts on the way there, but was a advice of the workshop to drive itself, because there was no one left to pick me up. What exactly with the shock absorber you couldn’t tell me, the car was on stage for a short time, but you couldn’t recognize much n. The spring is probably not broken. However, where the rubber cuff is probably something knocked out or broken. Now my questions: I was told that in this case the guarantee (Ford A1) does not apply, because it is a wear part. Is that right? What are the costs for me, if the shock absorber is changed, possibly also with spring? Does the driving behaviour change, if a single shock absorber is changed, is that at all possible?