Category: Ford Transit, Connect & Courier Forum

My colleague just has the problem that the pump gun jumps off after each litre of fuel? He drives the Transit Custom, 8/2016, 170 HP for his 2 years. He drove with the FFH to the gas station and the master has fueled himself and has also skipped off for a long time. On Friday the filling nozzle was changed, on Saturday my colleague wanted to fill up but the gun still jumps off. Has this problem also had who?

Hello together, as the headline says, I am looking for the main differences between Transit Custom and Tourneo Custom (2024er). When I torture the configurator (170hp, four-wheel, 320-L1) and almost everything that goes on, the difference doesn’t quite come to me yet…. I have the Titanium-X, the sport ( www.ford.de/s/jngm ) then the trail ( www.ford.de/s/jnVL ) Ok, there is probably no B&O and panoramic roof, but otherwise? Clear other colors (but black is black) ), different seating design, but otherwise? Do I just overlook something serious? Or where do the 1000€ difference come from (and on transit there are also more %) Greetings

a nice good evening in the round, I know this topic “What consumes your custom” has already been addressed countless times. The values given here vary also between 7 and 10 L to 100/km. I drive a Torneo Custom Built 2018 / 170 Ps Automatic and my consumption is around 10 L/100km. Also on long distance / highway the consumption is the 10 liters… The friendly thinks it is a cabinet wall / heavy etc… no error deposited, normal. Now we have since few Where In the company, Ford Transit, with 170 Ps, however, switch. The consumption of the cars lies around the 9 liters/100km are fully charged and are certainly not driven sparingly. What I notice now is my car, in position N, without any electric consumer, warmly driven in the current consumption indicator indicates 0.9-1.1l/h. The value never goes lower. Our company cars show values between 0.5-0.6l/an. Is mine constantly in the cleaning phase?

Hello we have been having problems with our Ford Transit 2012 2.2 Diesel 125hp FWD for months now. The engine is an AT engine from Ford with now almost 15,000KM. It’s only the engine new, not all attachments. For about 3 months we have been in the lower load range to give in to the gas. If then you don’t give any more gas it shrugs like this. You also hear a sucking noise from the engine compartment when it jerks… It’s like if you would tap on the accelerator quickly and only briefly. Ollgas it is completely gone. The AGR is new, but I still know if they have cleaned everything, but the engine is new. I drive almost only Premium Diesel. Another problem is that the car starts cold 1A and very clean, as soon as it is warm it is bumpy up to the point that it does not start at all and needs a new attempt. Twice the engine just went out in idle. We were already in some workshops but none has solved the problem, a master said it clearly But I don’t know what to do without a fault in the system. LMM is also new. Coupling and ZMS too, is not important but is new Diesel filter is also new. I am really a bit perplexed. We have no exhaust smoke and the injectors are perfect according to a Ford workshop. Does anyone have an idea or the same problem? I would be very grateful because I don’t want to run into the next workshop where the next part is exchanged.

Hello friends! I drive in my Transit Motorhome year 91 the old 2.5er suction diesel in the 71 HP version. I am now just back from a 5700 km tour across Scandinavia and it ran really well, slowly…abet good. Oil consumption over the distance about 0.8 liters 10w40. Running power is now almost 130,000 km. So…so to have a long time pleasure with the bullet, I wanted to ask for tips and tricks. Oil moisture is it, of course. My almost 20 years younger Opel CDTI did not see bess he from I just tip up again after oil change takes place annually, no matter how much he has run. And otherwise? Just let it roll? Is there something to care for with the cardan shaft? Well otherwise, how are your experiences with the 2.5 suction cups, their mileage etc pp? And I still need tips on water in the footroom. To the left it seems to come from the left, right from the top (front window?) Thanks Greeting Markus

Hello together, after I changed the rear brakes completely last year, the front brakes are soon on. I saw during the wheel change that not much is missing until the wear contact. Then there are surely still 3-4mm residual lining. Let’s see how long it will take until the display comes. 😉 Now my question. Can someone give me the torques? Brake disc wheel hub Central nut Brake caliper brake caliper The central nut new, or again use? The 5 Screws for wheel hub new? If both new, would someone have the item number? Spring plates, screws for brake disc, and the guide bolts with rubber cuff are definitely reordered. Do I need any special tools? Puller, etc? Vehicle: Custom V362 Box 2.2L, 125hp, from Bj 04/12, KBA 8566-BGB

Hello, I have problems with a transit already for a long time. After the error message “Railpressure insufficient” three out of four injectors were exchanged. Nevertheless, the car ran afterwards in idle extremely bad, unround. In time it got better, the engine malfunction light remained. Now he started with power loss in all aisles (max 80km/h possible), feels like tethered up and simply goes off when stopping or starting. But hardly I had full fuel all symptoms were missing If the fuel supply falls below half or approaches the quarter mark it starts again with jerking when accelerating, power loss and exit of the engine. Is there a pump defective in the tank? Low pressure pump or what that means? Rail pressure insufficiently means nothing else than fuel pressure insufficient. If the tank is full, the pressure is automatically sufficient, a pump is not needed at all. But woe, it empties. . Is my guess true, what do you think? Thank you and greeting! Matthias

Dear Motortalk Forum, my first post here and based on the good comments I have read to other posts, I would like to ask you for advice. We as a small family, want to change now from Tourneo Connect to a Euroline, because the size of the tourneo is not enough anymore. Now it is not so easy with the Euroline I have the feeling. On the one hand they are apparently very much asked for on the other they probably have some weaknesses. The Ford was on 10.07.2013 EZ. Ha t no visible rust traces. In addition to the 3-seater seat has the 2 single seats and a 3-seater seat as an exchange for the 2-seater combination. Has 124T km down and the 140PS diesel engine. Otherwise the Ford “refrigerator” and standard equipment with preheating. Stand all the time under Carport and the last TÜV report do not know any defects. Call here 14.800€ Meanwhile I see cars at all prices and can no longer assess whether this is a good offer. engine running with control chain and car is from 1st hand. Would be very pleased about your feedback! VG Tony

Moin Freunde, I am proud owner of a Transit Custom H2L2 9 seater from 2019, the 130hp version. The best car that I have ever owned and I had to save my ass for it. The car is to be converted to a camper and there is the additional air conditioning/heating in the back in my way. Since we drive anyway almost only two and the car is insulated, I think the one air conditioning will also be easy enough. The local Ford Workshops (Oldenburg) say that is from the factory a I’m an engineer and a screw, even if the workshop doesn’t want to make any money, so I thought maybe someone had some experience with it. There are 4 lines from the engine room to the climate module in the rear, certainly a circuit for hot water and one for the climate agent. Could you cut the lines close to the theme room (after vacuuming the climate agent) and bridge them? Are there parts around the condition Does the controller have to be reprogrammed or Fake sensors connected to the electronics so that there is no error message afterwards? Maybe someone has ideas, experiences or tips to whom/what workshop you can contact. Best regards Hans

Moin, I changed a crossbar today. Now I can’t get the nut attached to the carrying joint because the threaded bolt spins with it. I tried on wheels, also bucked up and I tried to support the threaded bolt with a jack and at the same time put on the nut. I also tried with a screwdriver to “shake” the nut. But it didn’t help anything… At the end it threaded bolt is a Torx40 recording, but you can’t do this threaded bolt. If the transit is on the wheels, I can no longer get to this T40 recording to put on the correct torque, but then I can only get to it with a fork key from the side… Does anyone know any further? And yes, both crossbars were made. The other one is about 2 months old.