Category: Fiat Forum

Adjusting valves is much easier than you think. However, the time required is almost proportional to the number of valves. The following is required: common tool set -feeler gauge with suitable division – setting values for inlet and outlet valves -if necessary new valve cover seal – torque wrench when the valve play is set with Shims (metal discs of different thickness): -special tool for holding the valves (this can be easily built by yourself, See the attached pictures) -a tweezer or similar is often helpful -suitable Shims I now describe the procedure for valves with cup plungers and adjustment chimes. For other methods it may be possible to proceed differently. Let’s go: First the valve cover has to be lowered. But to do this you have to decompose various parts depending on the engine before. The screws of the valve cover are generally to be loosened crosswise, from the outside to the inside (if the repair instructions do not prescribe otherwise). The lid should be easily lifted. Now the valve control is open. The most common form is probably two overhead camshafts, where the cams press directly onto the cup plunger (more precisely: on the Shims). Another possibility is an overhead camshaft, whereby the valves are operated via tilting levers. The valve game denotes the game of hissing camshaft (or tilting lever or similar) and the valve plunger (here: the Shim), and that is when the valve is closed. the valve shaft at operating temperature, however, has to be slightly extended, a low play must be present with cold engine. If the valve shaft is too large, there is still play also during operation of the engine. The camshaft constantly loosens from the shock, and then strikes again, which leads to increased noise and wear. In extremely large game the control times are no longer correct, since the valve opens too late and closes too early. If the valve shaft is too small, close This should be clear that the valve play is always measured when the engine is cold. IMPORTANT! If the valve play is too small, the ventlie do not close properly. However, the valves cool mainly through contact with the head, they will then become too hot and burn, i.e. the shaft burns, then they fall into the cylinder -> capital engine damage. The correct values for the valve play are not correct during operation. l is to be requested from the dealer or taken from a repair manual. The play of the outlet valves is usually greater, since the outlet valves are exposed to greater thermal load and thus the valve shafts expand more. The valve play is measured when the respective valve is closed, so the cam is pointing away from the valve. To this end, the crankshaft is rotated so that the piston of the first cylinder in the upper dead point of the combustion phase (all valves of the Zyli The sensor gauge now measures the play of the inlet and outlet valves of the cylinder and records the values. Then the same for the remaining cylinders. If all values lie within the specified tolerance (usually 0.05 mm) lid again on it (control before seals) and continue. If somewhere the valve play is not correct, the corresponding adjustment shim must be replaced. The easiest thing would be if you already knew how thick d Then you could get suitable new ones. So when replacing Shims you should write down the built-in values somewhere, then it is easier the next time. To exchange the Shims there is no general instructions, because this runs from motor to motor a little different. But the principle is always the same: the valve has to be pressed down a little bit so that the disc is relieved and you can take them out. But of course, sic leaves it. h do not push the valve down by hand. The adjusting disc is located on the valve plunger, centered on the raised edge of the plunger. At one point the edge has a recess. The valve plunger must first be rotated in such a way that this recess points to the center of the cylinder. Then you turn the crankshaft so far that the pusher is pressed down. Then you attach the special tool on the cylinder head. If you turn the crankshaft carefully further or back (each one after, whether inlet or outlet valve), the valve rises again. The tongue of the special tool presses on the edge of the pusher so that the valve remains a little open. The valve is closed so far that it does not collide with the piston at OT, but is opened so far that there is enough room to take out the disc. A small screwdriver is put under the disc (at the place where the recess is in the edge of the pusher) and lifts it up a little. On the bottom of the disc there is a name for the thickness (e.g. in one hundredth of a millimetre, the discs are usually available in steps of 0.05 mm). Thus you can calculate how thick the new disc must be in order to achieve the target game (you can of course also consult appropriate tables in repair instructions). Exchange discs can be obtained from your dealer. Most dealers also take removed discs such as the back. Finally, you use the new disc (label down!), remove the tool, rotate the crankshaft at least two times and measure the game reached for control. If it is still not true: Start again from the front. If everything is right: control seals, attach valve lids (screws crosswise, tighten from the inside to the outside, preferably with torque wrench).

Hello, I think about the following things for my Fiat 124 Spidereuropa from 84 and would like to know which of them I will get H-marks?: -rebuilt sports seats of the then rally model -sport carburetor of the stronger volumex version (same car, more PS) -abarth rims of the then rally model -rebuilt sports exhaust (at that time also as accessories) -outside mirror of an older model of the series (these would then not be adjustable from the inside, allowed?) -new wooden steering rad, not original I would also like to participate in rallies (e.g.Saxony Classics), are there more or less original modifications a problem? Thanks for every answer!!!

Good morning, I am about to buy a Fiat for a longer period of time – transitionally. Now I have two offers:Fiat Punto built in 2004. and aFiat Grande Punto built in 2006. The equipment is only minimal. Is the Grande Punto simply the successor model / Face-Lift or are there any fundamental differences? Many greetings Florian

Servus has had a Stilo 1.6 BJ 2002 for 4 months now and now for the second time in binne of 2 months the dipped light on the driver’s side is defective Changing is hardly possible itself without a battery and to dismantle various other things before you come to the good piece, the bulb, someone knows a way how it would go faster? and somehow it’s funny that the bulb breaks so quickly, but knows no reason, I just noticed d ass the headlights heat up quite quickly and I would also ride with dipped light during the day I would be happy about a good tip and remedy

Servus, have a problem with the driver’s door of my Punto. When opening and closing, the lever, which serves as a stop against too wide opening, is almost afraid the bag falls off. First of all, I noticed that the threaded pin in the bearing axis is not secured by a nut at the frame, but that’s also the case on the passenger side!? But it doesn’t seem to be there. Can someone give a tip, can it be easily repaired by themselves or by a part of the junkyard Don’t want to go back to the workshop!!! Thanks for every tip greeting jogi30

hello together my fiat punto cabrio 1.6l JG 94 has an extremely high fuel consumption! I suspect that the water temp. sensor has given up the mind because the temperature display in the speedometer does not reach to the middle if the car had warm. does anyone have any ideas or known problems? thank you in advance!

Hello, with my Grande Punto 1.3 Multij. Year of construction 8.2007(new car) the control chain has torn at km 150000. Despite regular inspection all 30000Km Fiat does not want to participate in the damage Kulanter wisely.(Rep.Costs according to workshop approx.6200Euro) Somehow I do not see this at all. The car cost new 17519,00Euro and does not hold even 3 years, that is for a diesel after all, right? Unfortunately the warranty has expired after 2 years. My question: Do you have to Is there any way to resist it? Greetings from Cologne and thanks for the help, Jörg

Hello first of all I fell out of all the clouds today, when my garagist of the vetrauens(was he at least to this day) praised the rest of my fiat. a fiat stilo 1.6 16v bj 06 with say and write 46 000 km. 3500.- he still wants to give me for. argh only that makes me angry again! is fiat so crappy… that any bmw total damage vehicles have more value than an accident-free top in shot racing bells?!? how does it work with the tooth straps… I was the me I’m still flat of the rest value..I haven’t seen that yet. especially since I’m missing the money for my long-awaited e 46 touring *grumble* do you have any tips like I can get rid of the dacia uh i my stilo for m more than just appel and a grusse ben!

Moin moin, I have a Fiat Stilo 1.6 16v. I have built in with a 750 watt power amplifier and now the problem: when I start the ignition, it cracks briefly (probably because of the remote cable that the power amplifier turns on when the radio goes down). But if I start the engine, it cracks, but it doesn’t disappear. It’s a constant noise in the boxes… What could I have done wrong? Hope a few experts can help. Thanks in advance stilo

Hello there would have been a question We own a Fiat Panda, Bj 2003, 170000km, who unfortunately let us down on the highway with engine damage (but he has unfortunately still rolled so far that he came to a rest place to stand) To judge him the workshop meant that one had to put in the 2900 €.Could someone know a lot he is still about value. (with engine damage)