Category: Fiat Forum

Hello municipality, since my Galaxy still waits for itself I look at a Ford Scorpio today as a transition vehicle. I have one of nem known whose father (Ford Automechanizer) sells this. following data Bj 91 57000Km (Driven by nem Renter) Silver Metallic 2.0 DOHC with control chain G-Kat ( But what a standard I don’t know) Winter and summer socks NEW Automatic (was resealed) No rust is present, but today will take it on stage and begutach The whole fun costs 1500eur What I plan to do is maybe that I could use the Scorpio as a second car, how high will it be in the wheel? What do you think? Supplements or leave? The vehicle is cared for around, equipment will probably be standard: window lifter electr. front, front windows and rear window heating any more believe is not in there also no climate How is the box to drive in winter? Thanks for your help

Hello ! I drive a Mondeo Bj. 02 2.0 TDCI 130 hp step tail. 130tkm Now to my first problem : My last winter tyres have driven on the rear axle extremely unevenly. When the oil change was at ATU, it was thought that the shock absorber was broken. Since I am not so sure at ATU however, I drove to the Ford. The gentleman with his pocket lamp once in the wheel run and said the shock absorber was not broken because no oil runs out. Did not let it do it at first because i ch 1 week later I switched to my summer tires anyway. Now it starts again having an imbalance at about 120 km/h. What do you mean broken or not ? to my second problem. I bought my Mondeo with 10tkm. since I have about 60tkm on the clock he does at speeding extremely hard soot. Ford says again is normal can this be related to this agr valve?. Thank you in advance for your help!

Hello, I bought myself a Mondeo Kombi a month ago. Built 95, V6, 170 HP, automatic, full equipment except leather. Unfortunately, the gearbox said goodbye 2 days ago. Without notice. On the country road it suddenly slowed down and then there was nothing more. So towed to the Wekstatt. No Ford workshop, but cheap and nice. There they said the gearbox was over, so I need a new one. At Ebay I found one, but am not sure if it was the right thing to do. All data match except the year of construction.http://cgi.ebay.de/…7109QQihZ009QQcategoryZ61165QQrdZ1QcmdZViewItem Can anyone tell me if it’s the right one? So my Mondeo is Bj.95, the transmission 96. Nicole5

Hello people what do your scorpios 2.9 V6 Cossworth 207 ps? and what do they consume the so? Mine goes only 220 km/h and swallows about 16 liters is that normal? MFG

Hello, with my Mondi (12/03) TDCI the diesel runs extremely “unround” in idle. The whole car wobbles and you have the impression that the engine stops right away. However, this only occurs when the car is standing and especially clearly when the engine is still cold. If I give the right gas on the highway, then the engine runs back in idle normal for a few days and after a few days of city driving, where the engine does not get really warm, the unround idle starts again from the front . I’ve already been to the workshop. However, then the demonstration effect occurred. Engine ran round… Has anyone had similar experience that the TDCI is running extremely restless in the cold state ? (In addition, there is a slight whistle, probably at the air supply for the turbocharger ??? The part is in the middle, above, very close to the windshield. A black hose is plugged on there among other things. I assume however that this is also only a follow-up phenomenon…) e even. If the engine is warm, it runs quite round and normal. In cold condition with longer, “weak” load then the whole car shakes… For every information I am grateful !!! Thomas P.S.: I read something about defective injection nozzles. It may also be related to this. Questionably only why the engine runs round when it is warm…

Hello, I’m considering the purchase and thus the installation of ATE Power Disc sports brake discs, although I own “only” a Ford Mondeo Tournament Ambiente 2.0 TDDI with 66KW/90PS, but supposedly the sports brake discs should offer further advantages over the original ford brake discs, as is known from Motorcraft. The advantages should be less wear, better response, less fading, better braking behavior in wet weather; now my question…. “Is that so?” t other brake discs than the original Ford brake discs or made with sports brake discs!? Just for information, the ATE Power Disc sports brake discs cost per set (front) 125,90 Euro, the original Ford brake discs for the Ford Mondeo MkIII should cost me 108,- Euro per set (front); my brake discs have to be new after now about 77,000km, including brake pads; certainly a concession to the vehicle weight, not the same despite a little too early as I think, the driving retention For information, the original Ford brake pads should cost approx. 45,- Euro, the ATE brake pads for Ford Mondeo MkIII should cost 56,- Euro, installation costs in original Ford – specialist workshop approx. 68,- Euro, at the free workshop “PointS” 55,- Euro, the comparison: Ford specialist workshop with original ford parts including installation makes 221,- Euro, offer of 210,- Euro available! At “PointS” with ATE brake pads and ATE PowerDiscSport brake discs including installation make t 236,90 Euro as fixed price! Don’t pay the 26,90 Euro extra price!??? What do you mean? Greeting Poldi76

Hello! I also had a problem with my starter battery (MK III, year 11.2001 Diesel, Kombi). However, I have the reason on the hand–> stand-up heating and unfortunately only short distance at the moment. I installed a new Varta (even the one recommended for the Ford) 2 weeks ago. Now I got a battery about 2 months old yesterday (80 Ah, high cold test current, also silver CA technology) from a friend. Now to my question: does this work as I imagine it: I would like to fix this battery in the trunk of the station wagon – at least in the winter months. I think best of all with separation relays, as a pure consumer battery for the stationary heating + blower. Then, if the vehicle stopped, the juice would only be pulled out of the rear bat. Perhaps I would also install a separation switch if at all necessary, with which I completely separate the second battery from the starter battery before I drive, so that the Lima only charges the starter battery. I charge the second battery every few days with a charger that I have been ready to install in the car for a long time. Only it has not proven to operate the preheating exclusively via the starter battery – despite intermittent charging over the charger. The other point is: I have heard that only one gel battery should be installed in the car. together with the gas generated during the charging process (I wouldn’t let the second battery charge as described by the Lima). Or is the reason for this more likely danger in case of an accident (sulphuric acid)? For tips I would be very grateful, L.G. Oliver

Yesterday I bought a Ford Mondeo, year 03/03, Turrnier TDCI with 130 hp. I actually (at least thought) well informed myself about the problems with the Mondeo. Also about the topic rust at the doors. During the visit I looked at all the doors and could not actually notice anything. When I cleaned the car once thoroughly, especially at the bottom of the doors, the result was of course: ROST on all 4 doors, sometimes stronger times weaker. Sorry, but like Can this happen with a 3 year old car?! I’m still driving a 7 year old Bora, WITHOUT rust. I read the Ford the cost of this rust problem, but only if you do the rust control regularly at Ford. That’s the problem now, the previous owner did this with Ford in 2004, but not in 2005, because he was in a free workshop. So Ford will be able to talk out nicely and I’ll probably stay at the expense. I’m really a I don’t think I’ll be able to find a “normal buyer” anymore…. Maybe someone can give me some more advice on what to do… Greetings Olli

Hey! I drive a 93-er Scorpio V 6 145 hp.(Automatic) The fuel consumption rose from 13 to 18 liters to 100 km.From the cylinders 1,2,3 the spark plugs looked good, from 4,5,6 they were black rusted. In idle it runs unevenly. When giving gas it is very strong on the exhaust and also has a very fat mixture at idle.(directs one). The suction bridge seals, the temperature sensor for the cooling water are made. The ignition time is set, candles are new. Has abe r everything brought nothing. Thank you for every tip. Greetings: Noras papa.

Hello Mondeo driver. Who of you has ever had problems with the injection nozzles???? I’ve got a shot at myself. Fucking expensive this part. Almost 400 bucks in the workshop. The stupid thing about it is that I can’t install 130 HP Mondeo such parts myself. When asked why the part gave up its mind at a mileage of 88000, it was suspected that it might be a material error. Maybe the dirt also got in. Doc h then I have to be afraid that the next nozzle will be there soon. It can also be that not quite clean diesel has been filled many times. So if I’m honest at almost 400 € I’m afraid to give my car some real gas again. So answer once in case you already had something like that. Gruss Axel