Category: Fiat Forum

Hi The light from the alarm system does not shine, I don’t know if it has ever lit, but an alarm system is marked in the vehicle’s registration, so what could it be? Should I expand the dashboard?

I hope that this question has not been asked too often :S !? besides my problem with the optics of my car, I am also concerned with the question of which seals (oil seals and others) are most important and affordable … I somehow also have too high oil consumption (where it soups I don’t know but unfortunately I don’t really think it is :S ]) wanted to replace everything like that (if this is possible and not expensive) I’m happy if you could write me any leaks that there are, where it makes sense to replace them and they’re not expensive… if it’s not too much to ask, I’d be happy if you could write to me what else you can replace in the engine to keep it in fire… I’ve somehow decided to take care of the car now (well, there’s really still hope for him)[only thanks to EURER help] ) … … my sister and of course I would be most grateful to you too!!! _____________________________________________________________________________

So people it’s slow so far my carburetor doesn’t take much longer with me, I can get some parts today but not everything with me. today worries quantity divider suction trunk suction head hoses for the injector. what I still lack is the wire harness, and there are 2 differences! the XR3i Jg 81-85 which has only one ECU and 86-90 have two different ECUs( Believe one of them belongs to ABS).I’m slowly skeptical how to do now? the MK3 I find kei a share more for a wire harness and the one from MK4 is still a lot. so I have no other choice to pick up from MK4 but I need to know that I have to get the whole cable construction out of it. but my mind is not all I need but the one from the K-jetronic cable. who of you can help me to work on this system MK4? and pictures would still be for the benefit of MFG.GIova

hello, I’m new here and I’ve already hijacked good advice on my topic, so now I have a new question, eigtl. I thought I knew where the problem lies with my car, but now I’m skeptical… my temp display gets warm very quickly, at stop+go I have to heat in order not to get into the red breich…, if I turn off the mor also the fan does not run after, etc… therefore I conclude that only the small. cool circuit “is active” and just my thermostat now I’m just reading another post and it was there that – if the thermostat is broken – the big cool circuit is active ? if so then my problem lies where different …. can you “taste” it somewhere whether only the small or anyway both cool circuits play along? or where is the limit (?) the thermostat sits in this thick, soft hose, or? would I be very happy about an answer, I know myself with car + technology so something from at all….fa christoph s already embarrassing ^^ mfg christoph

I drove my Ford Escort 1.6 16V BJ 95 yesterday and today it should go again but nothing happens. I stick the key in the ignition lock as always, turn around and there is no sound of a ignition. Just a short crack, as if what does not want to go and that was it. What can that be? The starter? Martenshad? And best of all, of course, would be solved without towing and that as fast as possible, because on a steep over g stand, where every Wednesday the street cleaning wants through. 😛 Thanks already for your help mfG Chuckwallas

Hello, because my old brake lines seemed a bit too cracky to me I have installed new steel flex hoses all around. At today’s Tüv date I was denied the badge with the reason that only the Mk5 2Door RS2000 is noted in papers, but I drive a Mk6 convertible with 130Ps! The braking systems are of course completely identical. Now my question what to do, with the manufacturer of the hoses (Goodbridge) I tried to call, if they hear it about brake hoses In the I-net order other hoses is difficult, most sellers list normal brake hoses only escorts with up to 115Ps. So with the smaller brake system/drums! A few mean that their hoses fit everywhere, whether 60 or 220Ps! Does anyone have any hint? Could now go to Ford and fetch originals for about 160€, or any other, but would be called new airing etc. Apart from that it brings me to 180!! !! If the new ones are normal/rubber while it would not interest an examiner if they are really for this stuff!

I have now bought my very first Essi, which should look nice and also fulfill the purpose, because the performance and consumption costs have invited (as well as spare parts supply!), the trailer coupling fully aunuten. The plan is that the car should perform its minimum 200 tKm of mileage per year under constant care. In terms of safety (because of trailer) bothers me, so that I have no ABS, can be retrofitted, I have never made it and know also k At the same time, in conjunction with ABS, I also want to convert the rear to a disc, from conversion kits I have heard which would get the brake calipers from the Sierra+brake discs. Question 1 stop: Fits the rear axle at the recording points and 2. How can you realize this with the ABS? You could now say that I bought the wrong car for the purposes, but no, because of large quantities of spare parts for the Escort it is the FZG for it. 6 16v (no tuner) who has just seen the 90Tsd, Brabus Endpot, KW coilover suspension etc., Alu incl. 195 new tyres (everything only by PN please!). For the appropriate tips I am grateful, if my wish can be realized, I will document everything properly by photo and make it available.

Hello Have brought me an LMM from the scrap yard, which I can bring back again at defective. My question: What must my car do with running engine if I remove the plug from the LMM? How do I recognize a defective or intact LMM with the driving car? Are there measured values? Is there anything to consider before and after installation? I am still testing the misconduct of my engine! If I do not jump in the sun at the first start of the day, shake like a diesel without glowing. iten Start he goes through longer and then starts, still without getting drunk! For the rest of the day no more problems. As long as it is cool and the car is in the shade, he doesn’t show the problem. Only when the sun shines on the car. On the other hand I thought I would have eliminated the barely perceptible jerking during the ride. Think! Ruckles still. Despite everything, the performance, remaining driving age and consumption are right. What have I changed so far: ZEB complete ignition incl. cable, Ke Rzen have 16,000km of oil changes before 16,000km, hardly noticeable oil consumption, no blue smoke, no white smoke from the exhaust, valves I guess therefore not air filter before 16,000km throttle valve cleaned Well-known defective but not yet changed, idler! Only shows itself really in winter when it is cold. Then he saws 4-5 times and then is good. After that runs in the stand round. Many fank for your answers!

the topic could have been there several times, but since I would like to mention a few before I do a separate topic on advance it is a 02/97 Ford Escort GAL with 1.4 mashie so 75 hp KM running power approx. 135tkm problem with the thing that the car is quite annoying, first new coupling, then new VA, then new cylinder head seal and in principle every week something new. The crankshaft sensor was also renewed this year. Now it is so far that the carts on the spot For about 1 week he has had the moth every now and then not to want to ignite, on unfathomable reason. As said now it is so far as nothing at all can go. The warning lights turn on, but the bezin pump is no longer heard. Thereupon it was tested: cables in the engine room and general-> no defect found Current supply Bezin pump -> not available Relays and fuses plucked -> no defect found Terminal 15, 31 and 30 tested -> no defective found Breaker switch Bez inpump -> no defect found The functions have been tested with 3 different keys (yes all 3 have worked so far) but without success. Distinctiveness: 1. When the ignition is switched on no impulse on the fuel pump relay! 2. fuse 33 (fuel pump) has 12V 3. fuse 13 (cold start valve, engine control, gasoline shutdown) has 0V 4. The LED of the immobilizer flash (according to the driver) has not worked for ever, but (I checked) I hope the that was detailed enough and that someone else has a tip which I could check to find the mistake. Thank you already in advance. Thx

Hi, this goes to all who have already had an oil pump defect: Did the control lamp light up with you even with a cold engine? (Is a 92er 1.4er, F6F’ I think) I don’t know exactly if the bearing or the pump is responsible or both, warning lamp and hydro plugs only report at operating temperature… Oil pressure loss first appeared at enough high oil level and that smells for me after oil pump defect, but the oil pressure switch was definitely not. The car was standing for quite a while, had a lot of short distance before, had fresh oil, was gently driven warm and had blown out a few black smoke during the acceleration. Couldn’t there have been dirt lumps loose and destroyed my pump?