Category: Fiat Forum

Hello, I’ve already been looking for a lot here, but unfortunately not everything. History: The Ka (built in 97/98) of my wife got hot. So hot that he threw out all his cooling water. The lamp didn’t work (Why not? Where does the signal come from?). Just so out of the blue. The car was in the workshop and they thought after they had changed the thermostat (? – she should pay 80 euros for material and working hours) (without order) that the They tap on the cylinder head. Then I looked at the car. It is neither water in the oil nor bubbling it in the water tank. The oil is also clean. No smear in it. Also, it does not pour out water over the exhaust. Doesn’t look like cylinder head, does it? After about 20 minutes in idle neither the cooler warm nor the hose of the large cooling circuit. Were ice cold. So rather water pump or yet the thermostat (what did they then have in the workshop On suspicion I changed the water pump today and got the thermostat out. By the way: That was a fun. Somehow my tool was not compatible with the measurements of the case. Is this all ENG! And then without a stage or pit. Funny is different. After that the entire cooling circuit became normal hot again. Sure without thermostat. Now my questions: The heating does not get warm. Is probably at the missing thermostat. Tomorrow I test with. Although you can also speed it up via the small hose on the thermostat housing. I will do it. What worries me: Even after 20 minutes in idle mode (sleeps and coolers were hot – it was hot outside) the radiator fan still didn’t run. Is this also due to the lack of thermostat? The hoses were not stone hard, so not under pressure. How can I test the fan? Had read something that you can bridge the relay, but I get the fuse box. How does the fan get its signal? Which sensor measures where the temperature? Is there an image for this? How can I test the fan? Just juice on it? And can you easily change the sensor? I’m really grateful for every tip or diagnosis. I screwed on the Ka for the first time today. And I don’t think for the last time. Greetings Markus

Hello, I have had the problem since the end of 2009 that with my Ford Ka (built in 2006) the engine warning light is sporadic. The read error code is always the same: “P0420 – efficiency of the catalyst below limit value (cylinder series 1)”. Sometimes, however, the error occurs only 2500 km after reading again. Depending on the mechanic, I should have the Lambda probe or the cat changed or simply ignore it. One even talked about the fact that in the worst case, d It can explode engine (realistic???). In the forum and on some pages I have already read a little bit into the problem, apparently this is a well-known weak point at Ford. But since every mechanic seems to have a completely different opinion, I don’t really know what to do. Since the Lamba probe measurements are used to regulate the air-fuel ratio, can it theoretically come to consequences, or have I misunderstood this? I have just passed the exhaust test, but the mechanic told me that during this short measurement a malfunction of the cat could not be detected. Since I do not trust any of the mechanics at the moment, I hope that you can help me further (even if the topic “Lambdasonde” occurred here a few times already). Gruesse, Tanja (Delicately) I hope you can help me (even if the topic “Lambdasonde” occurred here a few times.). gt the spelling, on my English keyboard there are no umlauts..)

Hello, the next few days wanted to make an oil change at my Ka.The previous owner has probably always only tipped after and the oil looks like that.The car has probably never seen an oil change (Bj.7.97).In the manual are 5W-30 according to ACEA A1-96, B1-96 WSS M2C912-A1 or oils 10W-30, 10W-40, 5W-40 according to API SH these oils should not be pure API SL, SD, SE, SF one of you knows the new designations of today’s oils that have come in place of the old ones. And can I also drive this with the old vehicle? What can you take for oils, have already looked at ebay and find only original 5W-30 oils for Ford but with a different name or so similar and it has to be that or something else!? Greetings Luis

Hello, I have a Ford Ka, Bj 06/2009, he now has about 32,000 km on the speedometer. For 3 days I noticed during the last braking process, that my “brakes” are grinding at something. Yesterday I was at the friendly dealer, where I also bought the car and I thought I was hit by the blow. The monader looked at the car with me and tells me that the brake blocks and discs were already through. I was completely shocked and asked if he explained to me. I drive from the “country” to the city to work, every day about 18 km easy, I also do not latch full on the brakes, so I brake normal and none of my traffic lights and can run through accordingly well. Is it normal that with this km-performance the discs are already through? At the already after 25,000 km the crossbars could be r. Request for your reports

Hello, I know there are these topics en masse, but none that reflects the problem of a friend. So: During the ride the vehicle starts to jerk and at the traffic light the engine goes off. We have now installed the parts (poti, clear-run controller) from another Ford Ka.From before changing times the plug from the poti….Motor run has changed a little. As I said, parts changed and drove 3 days without problems… yesterday he informed me that the problems again hit the ground again. Note: To get a picture of the whole thing for myself, I wanted to drive a little bit by car before changing parts. Engine started–> started driving–> coupler and it drains off….has happened again… vehicle got new Tüv in June. So I close Lambda probe We have also changed ignition cable because it was a little bit eaten up. Now you are asked Thank you!

Hello… I have the same annoying problem with the gas. Always when switching the engine turned up. In addition, I have the feeling that the Ka somehow did not pull properly and cleanly. After extensive research in the nternet and many visit at the workshop, nothing else remained for me to test as test…… AND HERE THE SOLUTION OF THE PROBLEMS…… 1. When the motor is running, remove the plug from the throttle valve …. while he is crying out for a moment, but then quickly catches up 2. With pulled off 10 Km. He still has the problem, but clearly less 3. The battery plug off ..I did it overnight, so that the control is emptied properly 4. In the morning the battery again connect and start engine 5. Now connect the plug of the throttle flap …while the motor wakes up briefly again, again quickly starts. That’s it, with me it helped I hope it funz with you too…. Would I be happy about feedbacks.