Hello, on Saturday I picked up my ST at the Patz car dealership, had converted my Focus ST to car gas. Plant is an ICOM JTG with 86L gross tank. So far I am absolutely satisfied with the car. Is everything as previously said. Car runs noticeably better with car gas than with normal Super petrol. Have with me two nice routes to test, one goes up on the BAB a quite steep mountain. With Super petrol I arrived in the 5th to 220 as soon as I started in the 6th It has fallen to 215km/h (tacho). Couldn’t even keep the speed, with autogas when I speed up to 222km/h at 220 in the sixth shift. It keeps the speed up to 222km/h after that. The other track also keeps the mountain up again to 180km/h with super petrol, with Super Plus at 185km/h with Shell V power also at 185km/h and with Autogas also at 185km/h. Therefore, I have no power decrease due to the gas operation. S uper Plus costs 1.269 with us at the moment, car gas only 60 cents. I am very satisfied with the system. I can only recommend the retrofitter Patz, everything worked out 1A, the system runs round, consultation was great and what so everything belongs to it. I can’t say anything about consumption, but now I have to refuel, let’s see how much I use my normal work path. You can see pictures here: http://home.arcor.de/hommer1964/focus/gas/ If you are interested in how much with consumption etc. looks like Then let me know, I’ll write something with you once in a while when something new happens. Greetings Hommer Achja what I just remembered, the Focus ST has an oil temperature indicator, there’s no difference between gasoline and gas on the normal routes. Only at full gas on the BAB goes I think the oil temperature 2-5 degrees higher than with normal petrol. However, even at 250 the oil temperature has not yet reached the center of the indicator, but always remains 1-2mm in front of it. But unfortunately, the measurement because of the ESP only turned out to be scrap.
Category: Fiat Forum
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Tyre wear
Hello guys, so that a front-driver at the front wears the tyres more than at the rear is clear but not like mine. 6000 km driven and only 5 mm in front on it. Is that normal, or do you have other experiences. Can one have a new adjustment with track and fall achieve improvements ? I have specially picked out the tyres from the ADAC test which are reasonably inexpensive from the good a) and b) have best marks in wear. But did not help anything. Maloya tyres I have back are still 7mm on it. as I said for 6000 km a bit happy for my taste
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Euro 5 standard decided – re-encryption possible?
After a surprisingly long time there is now the E5 standard:http://www.spiegel.de/auto/current/0,1518,454358.htmlhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/gas standard Therefore: Does anyone have the exact exhaust gas values for the 1.6 tdci DPF? …What would be necessary for a re-encryption? Ford itself does not seem to me to be interested in this topic đ MfG
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transducers
Hello together I’ve read through other forens in the last days because I have a problem with the automatic transmission.Many write that the converter could be. but I didn’t know how to check if the i.o. is.you mean sometimes while driving it spins through slippery.then I’ve read you would notice it through this so-called ‘cow grid’ effect.Do you know what this is???cow grid effect?? mfg
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Compounding ScorpioII
Hello, I’m building up a 98 Scorpio. I would like to install an additional control unit for the ZV, because it bothers me that the car does not blink when closing or opening. Apart from the felt 30 seconds that pass until it flashes after the double closing. Now I tried the composure with my other Scorpe. But only if I plug in the key and hold it on “close”. Can I use the original remote control so initialize that he also makes a composure about this? If yes …how? Greetings to Reiner
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Combi switch Heating Ventilation Air conditioning
I’m new in the forum, I scrapped a 91 Orion 1.4 and for a few days a Escort 1.6 16V Zetec 90PS year of construction 96 Schrägheck. Machine-wise my “screw” did well and there was a lot to fix, But with the electrics he has “left paws” fact I have to change the ZEB (secure is ok, voltage is also on) but the switch is “played hood” there is no mechanical rest when turning or pressing. except for ATU (32,90 Euro) I have no longer s (even with E-Bay found nothing) How do you change the switch? Is this possible from the inside? I have already felt (through the radio shaft) everything loose. As I said then I also have to get there to measure whether voltage arrives. Question about ZEB If you have the name on the note which is glued on the front with me ( TA 18563 High LHD 12.3.96) or you have to expand the thing (is not funny at the time) Had it already folded down a bit unfortunately not far enough (search nämli er Ersatz Ăźber E-Bay) 95 AG or 96AG? Last question at the front right side of the battery so between the battery and the air-conditioning box are the cables to the fan motor? What is this for a black box (painting box size) in front of the air-conditioning box? As I said, I have to get along with the Essi now, not a bad car, others also have your quirks, you just have to stay on the ball.
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Rhythmic idle fluctuations
Hello guys, have a 1.6-er Escort from 98 with Cetec engine with above mentioned problem – practically always holds in approx.5-second act – from shortly before going out up to about 1500 revolutions high. There is also no significant difference, whether cold or warm engine. Very rarely is idle as intended; e.g. if I give gas a few times (in the stand). Has someone had this and can help me further? Have tirefully removed the idle control valve, cleaned and measured and again a I think the motor control unit gets “not complete values delivered” – was read out with the result: Idle control valve (I just checked that..). Read here in the forum among other things housing ventilation valve – how do I check that then, electrical connection did I not see? And the Lampda probe? Or air mass meters (has someone measured for this?) Would I be happy about help
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Help Stuttering and Rugging Escort
My escort (BJ 11/95, step tail, 1.4 engine) starts stuttering during the ride. Now I have already installed new ignition cables and spark plugs. The old ones have shown traces of marten bites. Then I was happy to have solved the problem. Well, the Essi ran the last 3 weeks like ne 1. On the weekend I drove at approx. 28-30 degrees outside temperature and suddenly he started stuttering again violently. But this sometimes more violent than before, and also in urban traffic (predominantly in the 4th and 5th gear low speed) It stutters so that one might think it is misigned. The funny thing is that my tacho needle often twitches. If the needle does not twitch, then it drives quietly and normally. Could that also have something to say? I have to observe it more closely now. But in my opinion the stuttering is mainly at warm temperatures, and if the car was long in the sun. yesterday I drove again (a total of 10 km) and there was nothing at all. I don’t know what’s going on… ;( I looked at the air filter which is fine. In the other stutter cases I read about air mass meters, lambda probes and false air. Could it somehow also be due to the fuel injection. Where is my model of fuel filters? Would you like to write everything as detailed as possible for you that you would like to impress Thank you for your answers.
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termostat
hello, I had changed my termostat after that the heat showed again (in the middle, on normal)… but I noticed that the housing licked…removed (termostat) the old seal set on the new termostat and again everything assembled…was everything…doesn’t lick me but now after 2 times driving the yeiger stops again at the white area and doesn’t go high on normal …what can that be?..termostat already be broken? thank you for help…
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How best to get in?
Hello guys, I bought my Essi at the beginning of March. He had 109,000 KM on it and had been logged out since November 2009. According to the letter he had 2 previous owners and the last owner was a woman who drove him for 5 years. I made the first oil change and there came out a real, soot-black broth. Oil 5W40 and new oil filter. When timing belts were made last, was no longer comprehensible. I drove about 1000 KM so far, always gentle and not over 120 KM, since I also did not have a good G Last week, the timing belts, WaPu and V-belts were renewed, it was high time, it was close to breaking. Since the most important thing is actually done, I would like to “test” my Essi. But I have some concerns, because he was standing for almost 5 months and usually women are driving more slowly and under-touring than men, of course, there are also exceptions. Now my real question to you: How do I go a Is it true that from time to time you should drive the engine “free”. Do you actually have the feeling that it attracts well and that it also runs nice and quiet, so there are no jerks or holes in the acceleration. How would you proceed to get it to the top speed? Is this the best way to drive a few KM with 130 KM and then climb slowly or drive for a few KM then “leadfoot”?