Category: Fiat Forum

Good day, yes, my Escort has been spinning since yesterday, too. Hold on, the story starts … I wanted to start the car, all the lights in the cockpit go on properly.Key on start, nothing. Just a clacker from the ZEB, so click .. klack ………. click .. klack. All possible tried, no success. Then I hung out the ZEB once, checked all fuses, all ok. Then start again, nothing. Now the 29 pulled from the top of the ZEB, car starts through. All good. But the indicator light is constantly flashing next to the clock. So, car parked, test start … nothing. Now I notice that the switch for the tailgate does not work. So 29 off again, start … goes. Car off, 29 back in, start — click .. clack …… etc. Nothing. Can that be that the tailgate interrupts the start process because the circuit in the ZEB is not properly closed? When I lock the car, the lamp flashes at the clock The car doesn’t start, because the flap does not report “to”. Can someone help me, thank you for your efforts. lg scyxs

Hi, I’ve already been looking here, but I can’t really find anything to my “problem”! I have a mk7 of 96. 5 doorr and since the lock on the driver’s side doesn’t really get along with the key anymore and I wanted to have a remote control I bought one today! cost me 50 euro! is byr “car guard” and calls itself “ZV control unit III” now the problem: since several built-in types are proposed, I don’t know which one applies to my car! lies the ZV on the driver door lock on mass? or on durationplus? does jmd have an installation instruction for an escort mk7? the operating instruction is very comprehensive, would need almost only jmd the one with says which of the installation types I should take… the cables will probably be a fugitive work, since no one can help me except psychic assistance! right? I mean I had e-tech inside school, but that’s something… can tell me vllt jmd where and how to start best? so my stand to jez: drive but there are 3 others in total 4, and I have only 3 cables as installation types in the instruction! where do the cables actually go? door lock, door, through the thick black tube into the car under the armature board…and further? I am i-how helpless…

since a few weeks I have the problem that in the morning the battery is always weak, if the Essi stands too long (about 14 std) it is not enough to start. new battery I built up three weeks ago, 44ah of atu, brand arctis (had no other there for ford) problem persists, a measurement on the battery with clamped plus pole and meter in between has resulted in zero bulb (ampere). so no normally secret consumer. was also not built in anything that I used in I thought I had checked the car radio again today, see how it will be tomorrow morning. what I have now disconnected is an antenna amplifier, which was really jammed to my opinion, on automatic antenna, because when the ignition is switched off there is no current, as soon as the radio goes out, but sometimes testing 🙂 glove compartment and case au lighting goes out, I checked. a friend of mine is automechanic master and next week we want, if not better the thing If it’s not as cold as it is now at night, it’s better to start, which is clear, the battery is losing more and more power the colder it is. I’m beginning to suspect that the battery may be broken, which is new as I said, but I already have horses in front of the said apoteke………. see. I will try out a loan and install it on Monday, see what I’ll do on Monday. If anyone has suggestions I would be very grateful, as slowly as the ideas go out of what it could be.

Hello guys, I bought a new car battery a few days ago and I was pretty sure that this one is the right one. So far, so good. Well now I’m standing here with this battery and wanted to install it when I opened the bonnet I saw that I need a battery with square poles, but I bought one with round ones. I get this battery connected with some terminal, if so what is the name, how expensive and where do I get one from. e to fast answer MfG Andrik

Hey people, I’ve had an extremely vital question about my first car and I’ve been looking around for a while and now I’ve also got 2 interesting offers 1. Ford Escort Year of manufacture 1997 for 900 cars in itself so far in order, new TÜV, shock absorbers are easy to get through and it’s rusty on the tank lid, on the tailgate and in the rear wheel runs have been made new: ignition cables, oil tray, axle cuffs, cross-over handlebars and the complete brakes Get the car with fer tiger Hi-Fi system … good part 2. Opel Astra F 1,6l Year of construction 1997 for 700 cars also in order, new Koni chassis, sport air filter, Borbet rims, clear glass backlights, a little more rusty on wheel runs, tailgate, tank cover and bonnet TÜV still until mid 2010 engine was changed … but has about the same runtime as the coach Hi-Fi – system I have to get myself then still better How should I decide ??? am Ratlos … =( Please for your help and for questions I stand selfbs available =) greez ParioN edit/delete post

Hello, the search function does not have it: The cooling air fan of my Essis does not start. If I short-circuit the plug of the upper Temp-Fühler, then the fan does not start and voltage is not to be measured on the plug (of the fan). If I plug off the Temp-Füherstecker I can only measure about 4V against mass? What is my problem?

hello… have a ford escort -96 RS…and now that it’s always raining I noticed back in the trunk that ser is wet under the mat…rubbers are ok…have I already gucked…have the car not been so long…a buddy said that behind the stick on the sides of the car are such rubber rags and when you drive that the rising the air comes in…and so when there is a lot of water on the road and you also drive moisture so in…thought he jokes… white You don’t want to stick them on or do you still have any ideas?

Have a question,I have Ford Escort Bj 93,105 ps,1.8,16.v -DOHC,and it’s so that sometimes he doesn’t jump in… it happens quite rarely,but if I keep standing somewhere, park briefly or something else, turn off the engine and then when I want to turn on again,he doesn’t jump on,at the same time I don’t hear a noise of petrol pump,there I can do what I want,but doesn’t jump on,but I’ve noticed only one thing,if someone scrapes me with rope,then I make 2 gears in and ignition and press the clutch pedal and let go, so I do 10 or 20 times during the slipping and then it starts again,even if I immediately turn off the car and start ignition again hear that petrol pump goes,,, then I can continue driving, and hope that at the next stop it does not happen again.. What could it be relay ??Wackle contact , ?or still what ? Do not woch so long in Germany and don’t know the language so well ,but I think you understand what I’m saying No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no.

Hi ! in short form : Have a 1998 Escort, type ANL, 1.8l 16V Zetec, Giha A problem in the engine control causes various problems such as jerking and about 10 to 20% reduced power, depending on the weather, but this is already a long history is new : The EEC can no longer be read with the diagnostic device, there is no communication. ECU was therefore already at a special company in Gladbeck for repair. They could not find anything striking, however, EEC oka y, communication works, no mistakes found. a tip from this company was that there could also be other electronic components in the car responsible for the EEC being paralyzed. Since I am an electronics engineer I know something about data bus systems, but I don’t know how there is such a thing in the escort. In modern cars there is the CAN bus over which everything is controlled, window lifter, CD changer blablabla…but in the escort I can’t imagine that… The ABS is then dead, the wheels block in case of emergency. If the engine is turned off for a short time and restarted, the warning will expire again, at least for a while. Errors cannot be read out for the reasons described above : No communication possible ! So, now you are on it, don’t let me hang ! Greeting, Marc