Category: Fiat Forum

Moin, I got a suitable circuit board for the remote control key of my Streetka and wanted to learn it now in the vehicle. There is this guide for Ford vehicles “four times keys from Pos. I to II within 6 seconds” etc. But with my son’s 2007 focus it doesn’t work either with Streetka, it just doesn’t go into programming mode. Is there another guide for the one or is that not possible at the Streetka? Greeting, Hartmut

A happy hello in the round. Who has a tip or even better schematic for me? With my Streetka, the trunk can only be opened very rarely with the FB. However, it is with every attempt to hear a relay click under the bonnet, so I think it is not due to the radio track.

Hello, it is impossible to find that Philips and Osram offer an LED lamp for the KA+. When surfing around I found the following:https://www.philips.fr/c-p/LUM11342U6001X2/ultinon-pro6001-lamp-led-pour-eclairage-avant In France no problem… I don’t want! Have no idea if you could use this in DE. Probably this fails due to the ABG.

servus, I’m a little desperate. the air filter box in the engine room is fixed with two screws that each has a rubber bearing (I guess times). the two rubber bearings are both so through that the air filter box is quite rattled, and that is annoying. I was at the FFH and wanted two new rubber bearings. “No problem, I order them and report me.” a week later I wanted to pick up the one. and what did he order? two sockets from the air filter box to the motor g ehn….okay, once again showed him what I really need. ok, he has to clarify with ford in hell. two weeks later the info: is not available individually. only a completely new air filter box is sold for expensive money. so my question: does someone know where I get the two rubber buffers from? or should I look around for a good used air filter box? whereby the probability is great, that they are already brittle. am grateful for helpful tips oh yes, is e in RU8 petrol

Hello, I wanted to finish the days my Streetka for the season. After the first start, the battery was empty, although it is only 8 months old. After I put a booster on it, the Streetka starts, but after about 5 seconds goes out again and can not start again. The valves blink weakly, the needles of Tacho and dzm twitch. Only when I make the booster again and then again clamp again, the Streetka starts again, but starts n ach 5 seconds back from U.s.w. Does any of you have any idea what that might be? Shutdown switch is pressed, it can’t be. Thanks in advance for the answer. Axel

Hello I’m new here and I’m looking for a TSI 74/2008. I have a Ford Ka that doesn’t start now because he wants a immobilizer code. Unfortunately I didn’t. I’ve read it in various forums…and in such a case the costs would be 700-800 euros. Completely new lock set bla bla bla. Many people know about this TSI…I’d be interested in what it says.

Hello, I have several problems with my streetka. I slowly get closer to the solution. The cooling system was heavily rusted. I then always had a cooling water temperature of about 96 degrees. Fans always went up to 86 degrees then off etc. No overheating however I have rinsed everything, and still clean the cooling system. Rust is in the balance tank what I remove. Mix is now 50 50… Now the cooler front freer and the efficiency is higher because…. See below. uto now comes at 66 degrees coolant temperature. so the temperature does not rise any further only very slowly. So I wanted to replace the thermostat. But it is noticeable that the fan is running at the front. We have 0 degrees outside and the engine is at 66 degrees. What can that be? To mention is that the car also has an error message that the coolant temperature sensor should be defective. Too low values. What’s right because the car is running cold. Where is the fan being controlled at the front? can I do? P0116 reports the car. I would change the sensor and the thermostat, but somehow still has to be a problem with the cooler fan…… It’s a Duratec 1.6 8v engine, an air conditioner does not exist.

My 2009 KA”-ot” ru8 has been giving me real headaches for a few weeks. It all started with a spongy driving feeling. Constantly correct veim straight ahead and following track grooves was on the order of the day. Now gradually more and more problems with the thick one accumulate. I list on what I noticed in the last days for bitches. 1. Every unevenness gives a blow… you get shaken properly. In addition, the whole karo wigs. Sse several times from left to right (when moving in the car, set it in, let it fall…) 2. When rolling downhill, I take the foot off the gas, the car becomes slower with a jerk (as if the motor brake was hitting fully) 3. Metallic grinding noise from wheel box front (especially when steering) 4.Short strong shaking of the whole car in the empty run (ample)…which would mean an almost constant vibrating of seat, pedals, steering wheel etc. 5. Unquiet running in the stand (no speed variation) 6. Increased fuel consumption & how does it not really come out of the pötten any more. It is much louder and I find I have to switch earlier 7. Whistling noise (like a jet) at speeding 8. footroom passenger and behind its seat floor very wet 9. drain rubber-ding (NAME OR TN BITTE!!) in the engine room driver side very loose 10. Headlights become from time to time dark I think that’s already more than enough & yes…I know now “from in the factory tt”…that happens tomorrow morning too. But it doesn’t leave me any peace in my mind these forums are there for sharing experiences. Maybe one of you has no idea what the little one is missing and thus saves me from unnecessary workshop costs. Many love greetings

Hi, my wife drives (still) a Ford KA MKII With this unfortunately the transponder in the flipkey is defective. At Ford there is only the complete flipkey for 170 Euro plus control and the plastic key without radio for 70 Euro plus control. Currently my wife has both keys on the key ring and starts the car with the plastic key. Now the car is to be sold and I have little desire to present to the new owner such a key chaos, just makes also nen schlec hten EIndruck. How can I repair the key as cheaply as possible? I cut the transponder out of the spare key at a certain Seat and then installed it in an increased key. This is what I have in mind this time. However, the financial effort would only be to get a transponder quite high, 70 Euro plus tax to buy a key that I then cut. Does anyone have a better idea? I’m afraid you can’t use the transponder. Greetings, isn’t it?