MOTOR-TALK

Category: Fiat Forum

  • Scraping the only meaningful thing?

    Hey, I have an old Escort, BJ95, 90hp with almost 100,000 km. The car no longer has a TÜV in early August to get this had to be done a lot. Car had 1 accident, front bumper was changed and painted against others, as well as side wings exploited and painted, but in a slightly different blue. Exhaust should at least be welded, probably rather replaced. The turn signal spins again and again. Driver lock is also broken, you can only I have only 1 spare key. Of course, that’s not all: when it’s cold it goes out, you have to let it run briefly before leaving. In January in a free workshop the mechanic said the clutch would no longer be the best, if it really is like that I can’t say, it worked with me and I didn’t notice anything. And the biggest thing: he has something on a cylinder head dic htung and compression on the 3rd cylinder no longer fits -> engine damage. The car still drives, sometimes jerks. Extras and snaps there is no (sitting and light washing system were available after the bumper was replaced the light washing system was gone and seat tongue did not go from the beginning). On Wednesday I get a new car, so have the possibility to give the mill to the dealer for free disposal, that would be the only useful thing I accept? Greetings

  • Speed problem after battery change

    I have a little problem. My battery was much too small for me, and also broken. I got an OPEL battery from a well-known one. It has round bolts. My Escort battery but flat. got me such adapters, the connection of the small black fuse box I just bent right. If I turn on my car now (if it is cold), it only goes to 1500 rpm, which is normal. A short time later it goes down to about 900, which is not normal, because he does that normally only when I have driven him briefly. If I have driven a few meters, or rolled, he goes down to 400 rpm, respectively. What should I do now??? Don’t get the mistake out. I also looked again, everything is connected correctly, and to the last. Gruss BOB

  • Cat conversion at Scorpio 2,9 (Bj.94) possible or even only re-encryption urgently

    Hello I would have a question for you again. I’m thinking about getting a Scorpio all-wheel (built in 94) for the winter, think about driving, is that ideal or? We here in the mountains have quite hard winters mostly, as now also just again. Since I am a Scorpio fan, like our family ( already own 4 pieces) the all-wheeler would be very irritable already. But now to the problem, where I think there is no solution. The all-wheeler has the 2.9 liter engine, as far as I know, there are for the My brother only drives the same model without four-wheels. As far as I know there is no way past the expensive taxes or? Or is there now a possibility e.g. a new cold running regulator or if one installs such a universal cat that one gets out of the stupid Euro 1? Please try to answer me quite quickly, because I have to decide on the weekend because of the car. Thanks already now.

  • Tdci engines

    Hello, to all TDCI drivers who have a Ford Mondeo 2.0 from year of construction 2001. Turbochargers and injection nozzles like to go kaput!! All I know and it is in the number 8 all have the same problems! And mine recently gave up!! So think about buying ……!!!!!!!!!!!! MFG HÜSO1

  • Right choice Winter tires

    Hello guys, come just flew over from the Honda warehouse because I have a question about winter tires (no fear have already used the search but found nothing that could answer my question). It’s about that my old man has increased his Ford Mondeo 2.0 TDCi 3 months ago and now he needs winter tires because he himself has no marking of it I wanted to ask which size (dimension etc.) and winter tire brand is good?? read here what from 215/on 16 rims and then again 205er etc. What is the optimal for the Mondeo?? Thanks to you already in advance for your answers. Ford Mondeo TDCi Bj 2003/ 6 gear

  • Oil measuring rod

    Just for information: I have a Mondeo TDCi 2.0 85 kw. After the inspection, the oil was checked on the workshop site to see what level of oil I had to pay attention to. I had the impression that my measuring rod was wrong before. And look, apparently 1 litre of oil was filled up. Shown to the master who asked the journeyman: “No, there are exactly 6 liters in it.” Master: “Letting off in measuring can!” Were exactly 5.6 liters in, left in the oil filter. Until the “O-Ring-Knubble”, that is only the thin part for measuring, it shows me the exact maximum value of the oil filling. Shouldn’t you completely sink the measuring rod to the measurement? Master: “:-” He hadn’t experienced it yet. The measuring scale made of plastic was probably mounted too deep, of course I get such a defective product again. With oily greetings to all Ulli PS.: Look for a holiday of the other kind on my page -No advertising, promised!-

  • Can on turbocharger rebuilt

    Hello Ford “Ruckel” friends, after a long time I decided to convert my vacuum box (VTG adjustment) to pressure box (from the Wastegate loader, still had one in the cellar). Nach 1hd I got the pressure box rebuilt and made an extensive test drive (be careful with LDA). At first the loader regulates so with 0.7 BAr. By slow adjustment on the shaft (VTG rods) nevertheless got the load pressure on approx. 1.4 bar. m lower speed <1800 rpm generate approx. 0.2bar more charge pressure. Now to jerk: The jerking is definitiev hardly still there, even after the cold start this morning the jerking is ~90% less. First of all, if you drive for some time and see how this behaves, can not explain it to me. Does anyone possibly have an explanation why the jerking has become less? Greeting

  • Shock absorber broken?

    Hello together, at my Mondeo today with a loud blow a shock absorber (front axle, driver side) said goodbye. I drove the car then directly into the workshop, about 10km, arrived just like that. I already lost parts on the way there, but was a advice of the workshop to drive itself, because there was no one left to pick me up. What exactly with the shock absorber you couldn’t tell me, the car was on stage for a short time, but you couldn’t recognize much n. The spring is probably not broken. However, where the rubber cuff is probably something knocked out or broken. Now my questions: I was told that in this case the guarantee (Ford A1) does not apply, because it is a wear part. Is that right? What are the costs for me, if the shock absorber is changed, possibly also with spring? Does the driving behaviour change, if a single shock absorber is changed, is that at all possible?

  • Workshop has botched – wrong oil filled

    With my Mondeo (2.0 petrol, 147 hp, 97.000km, year 2002) I was now the first time not at the brand workshop, but at a “free” service. And I immediately regretted it. According to the invoice, I had 15W40; according to Zetterl in the engine room 10W40. So at least a wrong oil. (if that is relevant: from Agip). Legally it is that this workshop would have to repair anyway, if necessary by complaining. Only this takes and lasts and lasts –> until then the Mo So I’ll pay the necessary oil change myself. Only: Can I drive the now filled oil until winter and then change or should I change it? And: Ford recommends 5W30 – but you read everywhere that the Mobil1 0W40 should be the last wisdom. Apart from the price of the oil: Can it be wrong for my engine to take 0W40 or is it at least equally good? Background: I don’t care if the oil change is now 50 EUR m I just want the best oil possible, then the bonnet too and a year of rest.

  • Shock absorber leaks after 56,000 km

    Hello, during the last inspection it was found that the rear right shock absorber is leaking and there oil leaks (in the initial stage). My Mondeo is now 2 1/2 years old and has 56,000 km on it. I bought it almost exactly 2 years ago with 18.500 km as a remarketing vehicle. Since my factory warranty expired in March 06, I hoped that it will be repaired via the remarketing guarantee. But that unfortunately clearly excludes shock absorbers from the warranty! Now I have The prices are for 2 shock absorbers incl. installation. What makes me very surprised is that the ATU and PitStop are the most expensive ones! And the Ford workshop doesn’t cut so fast at all. I’m not sure that the prices are for 2 shock absorbers incl. installation. What makes me very surprised is that the ATU and PitStop are the most expensive ones! And the Ford workshop doesn’t cut so fast at all. Tell me, what would you take for shock absorbers: Monroe or Sachs? Greetings to Pharaoh