Category: Fiat Forum

  • Cooling water problem

    Good day together. Since I’m new in this round I hope you can help me or us. I have the following problem with my Ford Escort 16 V 90 HP Bj.1998 with Zetec engine. The cooling water tank is “empty sucked” although the small overflow hose transports the cooling water back. The cooling water level is when engine is cold, at maximum. If the lid is opened carefully from the container (in case of warm motor ) and the pressure is lowered slightly, the cooling water comes back to the Beh The thermostat opens as it should, thus releases the large circle. I can only avoid the overheating in which I switch the air conditioning and heating regulator on hot. This was noticed when the car got hot (after 16 km also through tunnel uphill) and at a traffic light strongly viebrated as if it was only running on 3 pötten. Spark plugs were changed better idle but in cold condition very ruppelig. Of the old candle 3 pieces were white and one “oily”. Compression of all 4 cylinders were tested and found to be good. A leak of foams or components that have not been found for the cooling system as well as air conditioning. We are at the end with our Latin. I hope that one of you can help us. Please thank you in advance.

  • Reverse gear switch leaks / transmission oil loss!

    Hey people I have a big problem and I hope you can help me with that… and that.. I built in a new gearbox on Wednesday, because my old corrosive noises made everything nice and good, everything worked out wonderfully, just jettison to my problem… the reverse gear switch (which is square, so not the round) is leaking in my eyes, because it constantly drips out. just like the simmerring for the drive shaft left (driver side), the spot is also always bit wet, even though it’s been renewed… can you give me some tips on how to best seal all this, not that I have to make my farm new in 2 weeks because of all the oil stains? hope you can help me

  • Ford Escort MK VII BJ.96 – Problem in the electrical circuit

    Hello, we have a problem with our Escort (model is in the theme title). The dipped light does not work and the stand light only to the right. If I disconnect the light bulb of the stand light to the right, then the stand light works on the left, otherwise not. The remaining lighting system (remote light, turn signal, back the lighting) works perfectly. I checked the fuses and they were all fine. I also checked the relay and it was not broken. The fuse box, the relay and the fuse. When I measured at the front, the full ~12 volts were on the left headlight, but it still doesn’t work. On the right there are a whole 0.06 volts on… I don’t know anymore at the moment. Can you give me a few tips on what it could be or where the corresponding lines would run long, which could be the most likely problem. I didn’t actually have to take the whole car apart… LG

  • ford escort mk1 1971- 5W40 Meguin megol?

    Hey, so my ford escort mk1 57PS 1971 , 1300 is now finished. I filled in Meguin Megol when changing oil 5W40 because I had it at home… Is that excessive or even harmful? Before 15W40 was inside. Maybe he’s sweating something out of the cylinder head gasket now. minimal! But I didn’t drive with the 10 year old 15W40 either. He’s stood up for 10 years;he’s put back into operation this year. I’ve read some excerpts from the oil thread. From there I thought the 5W40 kan n actually not being too thin for the engine…

  • Indicator lamps, heat exchangers and other aches and pains 🙁

    Hello guys, I have a few questions. 1. Which indicator lamp is in an Escort Mk6 ́94 1.6l 16V on the far left? And what does it mean? (it means the lights on the speedometer) 2. How can I determine if the heat exchanger is defective? Symptoms of my car: – Nasser passenger footroom – Car gets warm faster – Discs fogged on parking car 3. What can this be: – In the stand gas is given, then a grinding noise comes from the direction of tooth/keil-riehme n (Riesen sit well at 1st visual control and seem i.e.) 4. Car is restless in the stationary gas, sometimes sounds like it’s going out the same and there’s a lot of white smoke coming out of the exhaust. 5. The battery has to be recharged every 2 days if the car has not been moved. Battery is about 2 years old. I’ve already disconnected everything from the battery, which is not necessary. So that’s it for now. Hope I can be helped here. I still have to point out that I don’t need a mechanic. n, but I’m not that stupid 😉 Seems to be a lot, but maybe it all hangs together !?! MfG Die Chrissi

  • Servo off, blower cold, radiator hot, battery light on…

    Hello together! I’ve been having a problem with my Escort Bj.96 (1.6 16V 90PS) since then. On the ride suddenly the battery indicator light went on and the power steering is off. In addition, the blower only spits out cold air and the cooler temperature rises significantly higher than usual (it was not in the red area yet, but in the cooling liquid tank it was extremely grubbed up). I’ve been looking for a bit here and at least for the servo problem is usually a defective light. Aschine responsible. But what about blower and cooler? Can this also be related to it? What else could that be? I am grateful for any hint.

  • Too high consumption

    Hi, ahead; I’m driving only within the city and short distances; I’ve been driving a Ford Escort Lim until recently. ’95 and now drive a Ford Escort Lim. ’97 (special model: Champ); the previous had 88 hp, the current 73 hp (each gasoline engine); however, I notice at the present time that it consumes much more – I come at the moment – as I said only in the city – to about 10,5 l; may sound still quite normal for inside in winter – however I had (with myself driving knowledge) e, i.e. very high corridors, no strong acceleration at the traffic lights) at the other Ford rather 8.5 l, which is already a quite strong difference. What can this be? I noticed, once I made a motorway trip (as said, never otherwise) about 60km (at 110 – 140 km/h) that the temp. indicator is very low; it was also at the end of the journey only very close to the cold border area (which is certainly better than near the hot border area, but possibly for a I don’t know if the pointer can also be broken (in the cold state, however, the pointer is completely left, so it moves in any case). Here is the vehicle identification number: WF0BXXGCABTS05829 (unfortunately, I can’t find any information on the Internet) Thank you for your help.

  • Ford Escort: Oil overcrowded, what to do?

    Hello together front off: I don’t understand all too much of cars! I accidentally filled too much oil with my Ford Escort (was at minimum. From min. to max. according to the manual 1 liter. Half I filled in, was somehow too much, I don’t know why!) When I tried to start the engine today, it just jerked – the engine didn’t start turning. Now I can’t say if the engine is so extremely frozen (-9° and the windows and everything were full he ice) or whether the problem comes from the oil! How do I get the excess oil out of the engine the easiest way if I don’t have a gas station with oil suction device nearby (and the engine doesn’t start anyway?) Thank you for your help!

  • Ford escort doesn’t start, starter turns, gasoline pump also…

    Hello together, after I don’t know more about FORD, I thought about it…. I have a Ford escort here from my sister-in-law… He jumped on, she drove 50 meters, then she turned it off and he didn’t jump on again… Gasoline = ok Ignition spark = 4 beautiful sparks running on the spark plugs Gasoline pump =, the gasoline bubbles like an oil source when you separate the lead. Toothbelts are still on it, pistons are moving. I tried something once. To put gasoline directly into the intake tract without any success… Does anyone have another idea? I’ll see if there is still compression… since the starter turns and it sounds good but the car doesn’t make the typical sound 🙂 should it be something in the area? I have read a lot about the “crash switch”, but I’m of the opinion to have read that the petrol pump doesn’t run then… But this runs, then the switch should probably be okay. Bin Thank you for every tip That’s why Caiberdad

  • Problems with Werstatt

    Hello, I just recently brought my privately acquired Ford Escort (600 Euro) into a free yard because it has lost a lot of cooling water. The drive belt of the servo pump was renewed, the coolant thermostat was renewed and a screw (motor encapsulation) removed and mounted, because water has leaked out here. Then the Escort was connected to a pressure tester all night and then a 15 km long peobe drive took place. The car lost according to the workshop master No more water. Repair costs 168.62 Euro. Now to the problem, after about 200 km of car ride I was of the opinion that there was again some water loss there. I replenished water, but above the mark, so more water than necessary. After another 200 km the water sank to the mark. So went back into the workshop and had to look for it again. The workshop master. which seemed to me very competent on vacation, but the boss was there. He explained mi r, that the water always sinks to the mark, that would be normal. But he wanted to look again with caution. Now he called me and told me that the wedgeriemem was no longer in order and the water pump leaked and the repair would cost about 360 euros. Since the car has 2 years TÜV, I agreed to the repair. One day later he called me again, that the repair would not be worthwhile, because it is not foreseeable what costs would arise. Cooler is also no longer the best and there are also some knocking noises, which could possibly come from the Ventielen. He meant a repair not without himself, because who knows what else comes. I then wanted to pick up the car again, but that was no longer possible, because he cut off the timing belt and scratched around the water pump, which is now leaking too. It all seems very funny to me, because the workshop master should have noticed this during the first repair. I have the feeling that something was screwed up here. Now the car is standing on the workshop site and I have to finance a rental car from the workshop. I wanted to have the vehicle back in its original condition, which apparently does not work, because it had to lower the belt, because it was no longer the best and to get to the water pump. To conclude, he said that I should repel the vehicle by 100 euros and get another one. In the original state, because I know a private screwdriver who could fix that for me, there should be something to fix. But to get it there, even towing costs can be removed. I would be pleased about good advice. Greetings from Rudi